just a clown fish? They 8 cycling. Temp low?

Ballyhoo

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Day 8. I'm still @ 25 ppm of ammonia. I been adding Dr. Tim's. I'm getting new reef tank impatient syndrome and i read that clownfish are hardy and can help the cycle.but I also feel it could be quite mean and "anti-reef" to put a clown fish in a tank with .25 ammonia I don't want a sick Nemo. Another thing LFS told me 150 watt heater would be fine for my 51 gallon system. But it's not getting it above 76.2 F. should I get another heater? Maybe a small one? Or just spend the money and buy a ฿200 watt so I don't have to have two? Thanks guys.
 

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.25 ammonia probably means you're using an API test which could be inaccurate. What is your nitrate reading at?

As far as heaters I would recommend the next size up, 2 of them, and an inkbird controller. Heaters are the number 1 cause of tank crashes and shouldn't be dismissed.

I keep one heater from 77-78 degrees and the other at 76-77. That way if my main heater fails the second one kicks on immediately. The controller is the most important piece of equipment you can buy imo. Over 6 years I've had 2 heater failures where it saved everything.
 
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.25 ammonia probably means you're using an API test which could be inaccurate. What is your nitrate reading at?

As far as heaters I would recommend the next size up, 2 of them, and an inkbird controller. Heaters are the number 1 cause of tank crashes and shouldn't be dismissed.

I keep one heater from 77-78 degrees and the other at 76-77. That way if my main heater fails the second one kicks on immediately. The controller is the most important piece of equipment you can buy imo. Over 6 years I've had 2 heater failures where it saved everything.
I appreciate the response, so if I have a 51 gallon system, and I have 150 W heater, what would be a good wattage to buy for the second heater?
 

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Day 8. I'm still @ 25 ppm of ammonia. I been adding Dr. Tim's. I'm getting new reef tank impatient syndrome and i read that clownfish are hardy and can help the cycle.but I also feel it could be quite mean and "anti-reef" to put a clown fish in a tank with .25 ammonia I don't want a sick Nemo. Another thing LFS told me 150 watt heater would be fine for my 51 gallon system. But it's not getting it above 76.2 F. should I get another heater? Maybe a small one? Or just spend the money and buy a ฿200 watt so I don't have to have two? Thanks guys.
I would say .25 ammonia is okay for clowns. Personally, I would wait until the ammonia, and nitrITE are at 0 before you add any fish. Having these two at 0 ensures your cycle is complete. And for the heater, I would upgrade to the 200 watt.
 

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I appreciate the response, so if I have a 51 gallon system, and I have 150 W heater, what would be a good wattage to buy for the second heater?
I run Eheim 125-watt heaters on 2,20-gallon fresh water and 1-20 gallon shallow frag tank and also on one 29-gallon reef. My Eheim heaters keep the temps stable.

A 51-gallon tank I would run a 200-watt heater.
 
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Ballyhoo

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oh also today i am not detecting nitrites, or trace amounts. Yesterday the tank had like .50ppm so IDK.
 

Jekyl

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oh also today i am not detecting nitrites, or trace amounts. Yesterday the tank had like .50ppm so IDK.
Not nitrite. Nitrate.
 

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Day 8. I'm still @ 25 ppm of ammonia. I been adding Dr. Tim's. I'm getting new reef tank impatient syndrome and i read that clownfish are hardy and can help the cycle.but I also feel it could be quite mean and "anti-reef" to put a clown fish in a tank with .25 ammonia I don't want a sick Nemo. Another thing LFS told me 150 watt heater would be fine for my 51 gallon system. But it's not getting it above 76.2 F. should I get another heater? Maybe a small one? Or just spend the money and buy a ฿200 watt so I don't have to have two? Thanks guys.
Yes please dont put any fish in to cycle the tank, bottled bacteria is way better. Less stress on fish
 
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Ballyhoo

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why do people add ammonia to a cycling tank if there's already ammonium in the tank? I mean if mine is reading .25 ppm why would I add more?
 

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Nitrites are irrelevant in reef aquaria. Your focus is ammonia and measurable nitrates.
 

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why do people add ammonia to a cycling tank if there's already ammonium in the tank? I mean if mine is reading .25 ppm why would I add more?
When you add ammonia you are feeding the the biome ( Ammonia-oxidizing archaea AOA, and ammonia oxidizing bacteria AOB ) that process ammonia to nitrite and the bacteria that process nitrite to nitrate.

IDK 0.25-ppm has been reported as a testing response meaning low ammonia on some test kits.
 
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Ballyhoo

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When you add ammonia you are feeding the the biome ( Ammonia-oxidizing archaea AOA, and ammonia oxidizing bacteria AOB ) that process ammonia to nitrite and the bacteria that process nitrite to nitrate.

IDK 0.25-ppm has been reported as a testing response meaning low ammonia on some test kits.
this seems so counterintuitive for a newbie like myself. If I'm reading .25 ppm or .5 isn't the ammonia from my aquarium already providing an AOA?
 

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this seems so counterintuitive for a newbie like myself. If I'm reading .25 ppm or .5 isn't the ammonia from my aquarium already providing an AOA?
There's nothing in your brand new tank producing ammonia presently unless you used real live wet ocean rock? The ammonia source is you soon to be replaced by fish.
 
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Ballyhoo

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There's nothing in your brand new tank producing ammonia presently unless you used real live wet ocean rock? The ammonia source is you soon to be replaced by fish.
IDK the rock i got came from a large filtered water tank from lfs. they said it was live.
 

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Nitrites are irrelevant in reef aquaria. Your focus is ammonia and measurable nitrates.
The OP is using Dr. Tim’s. The instructions specify testing nitrites. Dr. Tim has a video talking about how high NITRITES will stall the cycle with his product. The literature that comes with the product the OP is using instructs you to do a water change if Nitrites and ammonia climb above 5ppm.
 

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