LEDBrick - DIY LED Pendant with Pucks

[boneone]

nice! N3535U-UNx1 semis?
looks like channels are split over the board nice.

hmm...
CH1 RBx5
Ch2 395, 2x410 2x420
ch3 1-2xCyan 2-3xBlue
Ch4 3xMint
would be fine for me

so i can pay around with separate color channels ^^ first & easy ReefPi project (my tiny little bit of linux knowledge has a lot of rust^^)
& add a view cree between the panels^^ maybe also 2700k or 4500k or just 4 experimenting (maybe also the cheap Rebel ES 16xRB from Kampo´s build)

 

[boneone]

@theatrus i already searched but i could not find the documentation of you ReefPi board D, can you post a link 4 me? pls

@all driving them with 1A & dimming down is´t so good for longevity?

 

[theatrus]

What heatsink and blower are you using?
Was the test with all channels in series?

All in series on a HeatsinkUSA 3.5” (x4”) extrusion piece I have laying around. It wasn’t powered for more than 15 minutes at 50W so no fan.

 

[theatrus]

how good of an idea is it to drive them at 1amp? guessing it would be smarter to drive them at 600-700?

If you can, always good to under drive LEDs.

 

[dantimdad]

Well I have a dead blunova fixture that I have removed all the electronics and leds from and will use that. It should handle these two pucks easily and look pretty decent.

 

[theatrus]

nice! N3535U-UNx1 semis?
looks like channels are split over the board nice.

hmm...
CH1 RBx5
Ch2 395, 2x410 2x420
ch3 1-2xCyan 2-3xBlue
Ch4 3xMint
would be fine for me

so i can pay around with separate color channels ^^ first & easy ReefPi project (my tiny little bit of linux knowledge has a lot of rust^^)
& add a view cree between the panels^^ maybe also 2700k or 4500k or just 4 experimenting (maybe also the cheap Rebel ES 16xRB from Kampo´s build)

Yes, those SemiLEDs. Note my stock of the 425 N3535 is very very low, but I have a reel of the 700mA C3535 on hand - it’s almost half the price for only 300mA less.

 

[Lingwendil]

Gorgeous setup! Same PCB form factor as before I take it?

Do you think these will fit the Aavid Synjet heatsink/cooler setups? I have two sample sets that I wouldn't mind trying out with them, they are rated for cooling 38W but these LEDs wont be pushed that hard-

https://www.boydcorp.com/aavid-datasheets/Aavid-ZFlow75-Spotlight-Cooler-38W.pdf

The mounting surface is 57.6mm, so just at 2-1/4" which may be tight but might work?

 

[theatrus]

Gorgeous setup! Same PCB form factor as before I take it?

Do you think these will fit the Aavid Synjet heatsink/cooler setups? I have two sample sets that I wouldn't mind trying out with them, they are rated for cooling 38W but these LEDs wont be pushed that hard-

https://www.boydcorp.com/aavid-datasheets/Aavid-ZFlow75-Spotlight-Cooler-38W.pdf

The mounting surface is 57.6mm, so just at 2-1/4" which may be tight but might work?

Its a larger form-factor from the original AcroStar, but 2.25" radius will work just fine, the extension for the connectors however will cause a problem.

I made a terrible over-dimensioned diagram, which also has the wrong board thickness (its supposed to be 1.6mm)

All dimensions are in inches:

 

[dantimdad]

The light from these proves what I have been preaching: You don't need whites or specific reds to get good color.

Now, to finish a fixture to test these for a while for growth and long term color.

I wish I had asked someone to make these up for me before now.

I ran this on a heat sink for about 3 minutes with the reflector and diffuser and without.

You almost have to have the diffusor but I am wondering if I can do it differently.

I will test several ways.

 

[topjimmy]

You know what would make these even better?

Fan headers.

 

[Lingwendil]

Fanless is the patrician choice in such matters

Well, when you have the room for a large heatsink, at least...

 

[theatrus]

You know what would make these even better?

Fan headers.

I added fan headers to the inline driver, but it uses the same bus voltage so would need a 24 or 48V fan. I haven’t ordered those boards so can still adjust.

 

[User1]

I added fan headers to the inline driver, but it uses the same bus voltage so would need a 24 or 48V fan. I haven’t ordered those boards so can still adjust.

Personally while I like the idea, and this isn't just about me , but I tend to see @Lingwendil point. If the heatsink is properly sized then the fan could be optional. This is something that is part of my current plan in how to set up the chips with the least amount of wires and connections as possible. My current chips are each on their own 6 x 4" heatsink with a dedicated fan. Tons of wires and connections. I think most DIY are going to run into wire, mounting, and other form factor issues sadly. Anyway I don't like how mine are mounted which is why I've been slowly moving them onto a heatsink.

Initial tests at 100% it got a bit hot. I added two small Noctuoa fans and that seemed to help. Re-ran the test at 80% and it was fine. Warm to the touch but I think manageable long term. I'm going to move off the controllers and pwm converter to the older 6" x 4" heatsinks once I move the original chips. I think that will keep it warmer.

Cool things like fan connectors and controller ready temperature connections are nice but due to my DIY skills and lack thereof I favor anything that makes connecting easier

 

[topjimmy]

That is the beautiful thing about the header being on/near the led board. Just plug it in like a standard pc motherboard header.

Voltage might be the only problem.

 

[theatrus]

The light from these proves what I have been preaching: You don't need whites or specific reds to get good color.

Now, to finish a fixture to test these for a while for growth and long term color.

I wish I had asked someone to make these up for me before now.

I ran this on a heat sink for about 3 minutes with the reflector and diffuser and without.

You almost have to have the diffusor but I am wondering if I can do it differently.

I will test several ways.

Any updates or new thoughts? No rush, just a friendly ping.

I've started doing internal evals on PAR and spread, though I need to re-build my MakerBeam testing rig for mounting these larger pucks. Numbers don't disappoint on the output front, as expected of course.

 

[dantimdad]

Unfortunately, no. I am working on a retrofit light for an old school fixture, some add on RB/violets for a biocube hood, add on RB/violet for my K7 and testing diffusers. So I am a bit busy. LOL!

I will get back to work on it soon.

 

[User1]

Any updates or new thoughts? No rush, just a friendly ping.

I've started doing internal evals on PAR and spread, though I need to re-build my MakerBeam testing rig for mounting these larger pucks. Numbers don't disappoint on the output front, as expected of course.

Sending you a email Looking for two chips to dial in color that has a wide spread but can possibly cover 30" depth.

Also still debugging some chip failures I'm having so haven't reached out for the PWM module yet. I think I'm going to need that esp if I'm going with a pair of center chips.

 

[theatrus]

I decided to, amongst some other exciting prototypes, to re-do my original LEDBrick panel boards. Its a rush job (you can tell what used to be a Rebel footprint!), but packs a lot more useful spectrum than the original.

Load out:
4x 415nm SemiLED
6x Osram Square 455nm Royal
6x Luxeon C RB
3x Luxeon RB 3x Luxeon Blue
4x LXC Mint
2x LCC PC Amber 2x LXC 5700k High CRI White
2x LXC Cyan 2x Luxeon C RB
3x SemiLED 405nm 1x Viosys 385nm

 

[Lingwendil]

Cool! What do you think the approximate loaded-cost will be?

 

[theatrus]

Cool! What do you think the approximate loaded-cost will be?

This layout is 34 LEDs (80W or so realistically), so we're looking in the ballpark of 80-100. I wouldn't use this exact layout, its just a nice slide in replacement for the four LEDBrick originals I had, but I'm working on testing a larger high power non-optic panel like this once I figure out the ratios I like from this model. For example, the mounting holes mate, and the use of the PicoLock connectors are identical to the original panel. I just didn't have enough royal blue, and some channels effectively at zero.