New 120 build, first time sump user

[Prairiereefer]

Hello everyone,

I'm new to R2R from Canada and looking for some advice. Went searching through the forums and found so many different ways to do things that I can't seem to understand all of it.

To give some background, I started in reading just over a year ago converting my 125 6' long freshwater to a saltwater tank. I've learned lots over this last year and changed my setup to make the best possible tank with the aquarium I already had without driving, just running a fx6, hob refugium and skimmer, and black box leds, a gyre, and inline 35w UV sterilizer.

My current plan is to do an entire new build with new stand, sump, skimmer, etc. since we plan on buying a new house this summer. My thought is it would be easier to move my tank inhabitants into an already setup tank with all new water but using the already established rock and filter media, then to disassemble my current one and set it back up in the new house. The new tank I want to have a sump with built in fuge. I have found a 4' 120 gallon on buy and sell that I plan to buy and reseal, I resealed my current tank and have had no issues so no worries there. My main question is how to plumb the new tank to a sump as the tank I'm buying is solely just the tank. I'll attach pictures but from what I've seen from the seller, the tank only has 2 holes in the bottom glass for drainage and return. I've decided I want to use both holes as a main drain and emergency drain as a fail safe. I plan to drill 2 returns on the same side of the tank as the drain (you'll see why in the pics) and would like them to be bottom drilled as well if possible. Also how would you plumb the inline uv onto the tank?

Thanks for the advice and reading this far in this super long post. I've also attached a photo of my current tank just for reference.

 

[Ron Reefman]

First things first.

Welcome to R2R! #WelcometoR2R

That's one of the biggest issues in this hobby, there are so many ways to arrive at a nice reef tank.

I think having an emergence drain in the overflow is one of the smartest things I've ever done. But getting your single main drain quiet may be a bit of an issue.

You seem to be handy enough since you are planing on 2 new holes. I'd consider a new weir/overflow and add 2 more holes to have a full 'bean animal drain system'.

I just built this tank a year ago and here is what I did. The 2 outside return pipes go through bulkheads and I used LocLine on the outside. With a gate valve on the main drain and a variable speed return pump, making this system dead quiet is super easy!

 

[Prairiereefer]

Thanks for the idea! How big are your drains and return? And what is your weir/overflow made of? Is it glass or just acrylic? I was planning on replacing the acrylic on the current tank regardless cause I personally don't like the look of the blue acrylic.

 

[Prairiereefer]

Also what size is that tank? Mine will be a 4' x 2' x 2' with the bulkheads on the 2' side as pictured

 

[Ron Reefman]

Thanks for the idea! How big are your drains and return? And what is your weir/overflow made of? Is it glass or just acrylic? I was planning on replacing the acrylic on the current tank regardless cause I personally don't like the look of the blue acrylic.

They are all 1" pipes.
The weir is white acrylic. I used white and also made a white acrylic base under the bottom glass.The acrylic is bigger than the bottom glass by 7/16" on all 4 sides. The side glass (3/8") is attached to the ends of the bottom glass and sits on top of the acrylic bottom. So there is just a bit of the 1/16" left sticking out. I also used white adhesive to bond the glass together.

Also what size is that tank? Mine will be a 4' x 2' x 2' with the bulkheads on the 2' side as pictured

My tank is 90g (36" x 30" x 20"). I drilled the holes in the weir trying to get the flow through the weir to at least 900gph which is what my return pump (with head loss) was capable of doing. I ended up having to make every other hole bigger to get the flow I wanted. I was drilling it with water in the tank and testing it by running the drain water into a bucket and using the return pump that is now in my sump/fuge.

I'm extremely happy with the holes rather than teeth for the weir. I also made a lid for the weir to keep anybody from climbing or jumping in. It also keeps the light out, so no algae growth inside the overflow chamber.

 

[sp1187]

They are all 1" pipes.
The weir is white acrylic. I used white and also made a white acrylic base under the bottom glass.The acrylic is bigger than the bottom glass by 7/16" on all 4 sides. The side glass (3/8") is attached to the ends of the bottom glass and sits on top of the acrylic bottom. So there is just a bit of the 1/16" left sticking out. I also used white adhesive to bond the glass together.



My tank is 90g (36" x 30" x 20"). I drilled the holes in the weir trying to get the flow through the weir to at least 900gph which is what my return pump (with head loss) was capable of doing. I ended up having to make every other hole bigger to get the flow I wanted. I was drilling it with water in the tank and testing it by running the drain water into a bucket and using the return pump that is now in my sump/fuge.

I'm extremely happy with the holes rather than teeth for the weir. I also made a lid for the weir to keep anybody from climbing or jumping in. It also keeps the light out, so no algae growth inside the overflow chamber.

how long have you had the stainless brackets? I have found even stainless rusts eventually in a salt water environment.

 

[sp1187]

DIY sump and plumbing help
https://gmacreef.com/reef-aquarium-sump-tank-design/

 

[Ron Reefman]

how long have you had the stainless brackets? I have found even stainless rusts eventually in a salt water environment.

These are actually polished aluminum, not stainless steel. I may have misstated that in my build thread.

And they have been in use now for 6 months.

 

[Prairiereefer]

They are all 1" pipes.
The weir is white acrylic. I used white and also made a white acrylic base under the bottom glass.The acrylic is bigger than the bottom glass by 7/16" on all 4 sides. The side glass (3/8") is attached to the ends of the bottom glass and sits on top of the acrylic bottom. So there is just a bit of the 1/16" left sticking out. I also used white adhesive to bond the glass together.



My tank is 90g (36" x 30" x 20"). I drilled the holes in the weir trying to get the flow through the weir to at least 900gph which is what my return pump (with head loss) was capable of doing. I ended up having to make every other hole bigger to get the flow I wanted. I was drilling it with water in the tank and testing it by running the drain water into a bucket and using the return pump that is now in my sump/fuge.

I'm extremely happy with the holes rather than teeth for the weir. I also made a lid for the weir to keep anybody from climbing or jumping in. It also keeps the light out, so no algae growth inside the overflow chamber.

Wow this is so well thought out. Can I get a link to your build thread?

 

[sp1187]

what's the dimensions on the 4' 120?

 

[sp1187]

what's the dimensions on the 4' 120?

never mind. saw it in a latter post.

 

[Prairiereefer]

They are all 1" pipes.
The weir is white acrylic. I used white and also made a white acrylic base under the bottom glass.The acrylic is bigger than the bottom glass by 7/16" on all 4 sides. The side glass (3/8") is attached to the ends of the bottom glass and sits on top of the acrylic bottom. So there is just a bit of the 1/16" left sticking out. I also used white adhesive to bond the glass together.



My tank is 90g (36" x 30" x 20"). I drilled the holes in the weir trying to get the flow through the weir to at least 900gph which is what my return pump (with head loss) was capable of doing. I ended up having to make every other hole bigger to get the flow I wanted. I was drilling it with water in the tank and testing it by running the drain water into a bucket and using the return pump that is now in my sump/fuge.

I'm extremely happy with the holes rather than teeth for the weir. I also made a lid for the weir to keep anybody from climbing or jumping in. It also keeps the light out, so no algae growth inside the overflow chamber.

Ok so I went and saw the tank tonight. Looks like the silicone between each glass pane is starting to let go so the entire tank is going to need to be torn apart and rebuilt essentially. I took more pics of it tonight. I was able to talk him into letting it go for $100 which I think is a good deal. I've never rebuilt a tank before though let alone starphire glass tank. I've resealed tanks before, would the rebuild be much more difficult?

 

[don_chuwish]

Just like with a reseal, just be sure you get the glass PERFECTLY clean - no old silicone left at all. Look up using the silicone injection method for doing the seams. You'll need corner clamps to hold it all in place. Get Momentive RTV or GE SCS1200 silicone for the best bond. Personally I'd go with black. ;-)

 

[Prairiereefer]

Just like with a reseal, just be sure you get the glass PERFECTLY clean - no old silicone left at all. Look up using the silicone injection method for doing the seams. You'll need corner clamps to hold it all in place. Get Momentive RTV or GE SCS1200 silicone for the best bond. Personally I'd go with black. ;-)

Thanks for the info! Why black? There's no trim on this so the silicone will be visible, wouldn't black detract from the tank itself?

 

[don_chuwish]

It's a preference thing for sure, but most trim-less reef tanks you see these days use black. Clear silicone tends to get dirty looking over time - the black hides that.
Nice looking tank btw, thick glass and good Eurobracing.

 

[Prairiereefer]

It's a preference thing for sure, but most trim-less reef tanks you see these days use black. Clear silicone tends to get dirty looking over time - the black hides that.
Nice looking tank btw, thick glass and good Eurobracing.

Thanks! I'll likely be going to pick it up tomorrow. It has a single drain and single output. Debating drilling a new hole and building a new overflow however I've had mixed opinions on whether or not its necessary to have an emergency drain. Budud of mine has been in reefing for almost 20 years and he says none of his tanks have 2 drains and he's had no issues.

 

[don_chuwish]

I'm a big fan of redundancy in general. I'd make it a dual drain, if not triple (BeanAnimal style) and drill another for the return. The return can T off at the top into two nozzles. But that's just me!

 

[Ron Reefman]

Wow this is so well thought out. Can I get a link to your build thread?

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ron-reefmans-new-90g-build.636706/#post-6344998

People don't go to 2 and 3 drains because it's easy. They do it because only having one is stupid in a new build. Your buddy has old tanks, and tearing one down to drill new holes is a major PITA! It only takes one clogged drain to overflow the tank. How would your floor (or house) deal with 20 or more gallons of saltwater spilled on it... especially if it happens when you aren't home!

 

[don_chuwish]

Thanks for the info! Why black? There's no trim on this so the silicone will be visible, wouldn't black detract from the tank itself?

Another thing about black vs clear silicone - if you plan to have a black back panel the clear silicone really stands out against it - looks kinda misty white. I was just looking at my tank and reflecting on that. (I wish min was black silicone!)

 

[Prairiereefer]

Another thing about black vs clear silicone - if you plan to have a black back panel the clear silicone really stands out against it - looks kinda misty white. I was just looking at my tank and reflecting on that. (I wish min was black silicone!)

Hmmm good to know. I'll definitely have to think about it.