Hey guys,
So no filter socks on the system?
So no filter socks on the system?
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Also, an algae scrubber requires more power as you have to flow in and out of it plus you have the lights. I know you will say you simply tee off your manifold, but you pay for that flow one way or another.
But in reality you have no clue what you are chuciking. Therein lies the problem with the so called methodWhile that may be true, I still prefer the ease of use of grabbing a two pound chunk of chaeto and chucking it out the door and into my garden to mulch down.
Who wants to open up an algae scrubber, take out a screen, pull off the goop, reassemble it, etc. Also, there is a side benefit of the life that thrives in a big patch of macro - mine is teaming with pods of all sorts, snails, little stars, stomatellas, you name it.
Forget the CO2, just do it because its easier.
Well there's plenty of automatic water change systems being utilized these days. So switching to this method to simply save your back muscles may sound good to some but it's definitely not the only solution to achieve that.For my part, I don't equate the main feature of the Triton method with drastically reducing water changes. If someone's main concern is finding an easier way to make water changes, there should be some automated way to specifically do that. I haven't really seen anything on the market that does it (yet?) but I'm sure it wouldn't be that difficult to put together. After all, everyone has a flushing toilet in their home (except if you're in the Philippines, LOL) and that basically does something similar. Not something impossible to do or even high tech, if you see what I mean. Point is, someone could always find a way to plumb their mixing station so that pushing a button drains some water from a section of the sump and then allows some freshly mixed salt water to be dumped in. I'm actually surprised I haven't seen sumps with a water change section built into them yet but I digress....
So if someone is on the Triton method and "doesn't end up having to lug buckets around", that's just something incidental and not really a selling point for adopting the method. Or at least I feel it really shouldn't be. I don't mean to sound critical but what I get from that is it belittles the other -way more important- elements of the method and really shouldn't be touted as a major selling point.
I guess the Triton method may drastically reduce the need for water changes but the obvious thing here is that it doesn't waste saltwater. Has it ever been considered that the saltwater that is being thrown out during regular water changes is actually not so depleted in elements and nutrients to make it utterly useless? I find that an awful lot of water is really just wasted. And a bucket of salt is not given for free. We're paying for that (well you guys are). That's what always bothered me about water changes.
The other thing is that it allows for a deeper understanding and insight (via IPC testing results) of what the water in your system is really like. Something very necessary to be able to balance the water column in a reef system that just didn't exist before.
It's also an intelligent way to manage a reef system - as opposed to just guessing - that ends up saving maintenance time.
Finally, something that hasn't been mentioned,... If you know you'll be upgrading your tank in the future to something bigger, the Triton method might actually allow you to save the saltwater you would normally discard after a water change. It could be stored and used later to fill the new system as it will eventually be subject to dosing with corrective chemicals anyway.
But in reality you have no clue what you are chuciking. Therein lies the problem with the so called method
BTW, I am a recent Triton convert. But I use both the Triton system AND my calcium reactor to help supplement (kind of half and half). Within two weeks I could see a major change in my tank. It was doing good. OK really. But now six weeks later it is amazing the difference. The growth has been at least twice as fast on my acros and zoanthids that had almost completely disappeared are now coming back. Here is a video I took yesterday - no joke some of these corals have grown nearly an inch since I have been using Triton. If you want to read more about my tank and how I am using Triton, there is a link in my signature.
Are you running the calcium reactor like you did before Triton and dosing less of the 4 parts or did you dial down the reactor and dosing like Triton recommends?
I don't agree at all with Tritons assumption that algae scrubbers don't remove co2 from the water, only from the air. If they can show any scientific study that came to this conclusion, I'd be eager to read it.
As I understand it there is very little co2 in seawater in any case. It is quickly hydrated & becomes carbonic acid, & then almost instantly converted into bicarbonate.
Figure 1 shows data calculated for all three species as a function of pH in seawater. From this graph, it is clear that if getting carbon dioxide itself is limiting at pH 8.2, it might be more efficient to get it from bicarbonate because so much more is present. In fact, roughly 200 times more bicarbonate than carbon dioxide is present in seawater at pH 8.2. In most reef aquaria the bicarbonate is present at between 2 and 4 mM (millimolar = meq/L), or about 122 to 244 mg/L bicarbonate. For comparison, carbon dioxide is much lower, on the order of 0.01 mM (0.5) mg/L at pH 8.2.![]()
The rate at which carbon dioxide is used by rapidly photosynthesizing organisms is fast enough that organisms can deplete the carbon dioxide in the surrounding seawater faster than it can be replaced by diffusion and other transport mechanisms through the seawater.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-10/rhf/index.php
So I have no doubt that the algae growing on a screen takes up the co2 from the water passing over it, just as a ball of chaeto does in a fuge.
I have done both. I started by doing 20ml at first, then I gradually upped the dosage over two weeks while at the same time raising the ph in my CaRx. All the way I have been monitoring Alkalinity (with our prototype) and tweaking as necessary.
This is not the recommended method for combining these two things. It is my way. What I have asked Triton to consider is a (2 or 3 part) blend that is specifically targeted for CaRx users. We will see - who knows that might come at a later time. For now what I am doing has been working well. Going to do another ICP next week.
I think it is just "less" not all or nothing![]()
You lost me, Brother. Not sure how this relates to what I was saying..... Unless you're in agreement with me?Well there's plenty of automatic water change systems being utilized these days. So switching to this method to simply save your back muscles may sound good to some but it's definitely not the only solution to achieve that.
Sorry. I don’t understand the problem here you are alluding to. I have used a RDP macro algae method successfully for nutrient export for years and years before the Triton method was released.
Also, with ICP one does understand how the water is balanced so you do kind of have more of a clue than you otherwise would.
In the end while I appreciate the spirited debate, I know what is working for me at the moment. I like the idea of a replenishment t system with testing. The rest of the guidance for the “system” I had already been doing. The success is what matters most for me. The elimination (extreme reduction) of water changes is just a bonus.
The only real problem I have with the protocol is if you have a problem with your tank, it will take several days-2 weeks to get any results back from testing . By then, a small problem may be a big problem. If you decide to prophylactically test lets say every 3 months - it costs more money - and from what I have seen at least from the comments on some of the threads - there are alot of results that come back unexplainable - and water changes are recommended - and you may be chasing your tail a bit with spurious results.
But by that logic you could say the same about water changes or any other method of maintaining the health of a tank. You notice a problem and you guess that it is the skimmer, or the GAC, or the GFO, or that you need a water change, but you have no way of knowing since you don't test so a small problem can become a large problem within several days if you guessed wrong or the water change did not solve the issue.
None of the methods to reduce water changes forbid you from doing a water change if you believe that will mitigate a acute problem. The way I see it the ICP test is just information, it is a tool, and I can't see how you can argue that more information about the contents of the water in the tank can make things worse. You seem to be arguing that it is just better to not know and do a water change and hope that this magically solves all problems.
You also seem to have a problem trusting the results of the ICP and/or what is in the Triton products, which ignores the fact that you could send a sample to a competing ICP lab to have it tested. And by that logic you should also have a problem trusting your salt mix, or the two-part or other methods to dose, can you trust the hobby tests, the food you feed, can you trust what a skimmer is doing, what GAC/GFO are actually doing or what is in the GAC/GFO you are sold. I find this strange since the point of ICP seems to be that you don't have to blindly trust everyone so unless you are making the case that ICP has significant flaws or there is actual evidence that there is something wrong with Triton dosing products that they cover up in the ICP tests then I don't understand this argument you are presenting.