1.5 plumbing install

Ryan1277

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I recently picked up a use glasscage 90 gallon it’s been drilled for 1.5 inch bulkhead drain line and 1 inch return line. Should I use the 1.5 inch drain size or reduce it with an adapter to 1 or 1 1/4 pipe? Just wondering how loud a 1.5 inch drain would be, I’ll be using a 30 gallon sump. Could anyone point me towards diagrams to build a quieter drain. My 75 gallon has a 1 1/4 drain but someone reduced drain to a 1 inch to use an adjustable drain pipe kit
 

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You could get away with reducing drain size, but how big of pump do you plan to run? If it were me I would use the 1.5 with a gate valve.
 
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Ryan1277

Ryan1277

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Currently I have a jabeo pump that was given to me specs on it are Max Flow Rate: 3500LPH(900GPH); not sure if that’s big enough or not. Not sure what kind flow rate I should want. I was thinking of using a gate valve on drain especially if I stick to 1.5 inch. Just concerned about pump flow and rate. I guess using a gate valve will help from overflowing the sump if the drain is to big and pump to weak
 

DrZoidburg

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Currently I have a jabeo pump that was given to me specs on it are Max Flow Rate: 3500LPH(900GPH); not sure if that’s big enough or not. Not sure what kind flow rate I should want. I was thinking of using a gate valve on drain especially if I stick to 1.5 inch. Just concerned about pump flow and rate. I guess using a gate valve will help from overflowing the sump if the drain is to big and pump to weak
Its not 900 after head pressure. Maybe more like 750 idk. Would have to find this detail. I would think its not too much. Ideally over 4X turnover is ok. Maybe a bit much for 1 inch in some situations. Drains don't have much pressure. If anything go down to 1.25 inch? https://flexpvc.com/Reference/WaterFlowBasedOnPipeSize.shtml
 

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Currently I have a jabeo pump that was given to me specs on it are Max Flow Rate: 3500LPH(900GPH); not sure if that’s big enough or not. Not sure what kind flow rate I should want. I was thinking of using a gate valve on drain especially if I stick to 1.5 inch. Just concerned about pump flow and rate. I guess using a gate valve will help from overflowing the sump if the drain is to big and pump to weak
Where are the holes located? Seems like there should be some sort of internal or external overflow with at least 2 drain lines. A single line is a tank overflow disaster waiting to happen. Can you post a photo of the setup?

Regarding your comment on overflowing the sump if the return pump is too weak. It can't happen as the only water that should flow into the drain is the water that is pumped into the tank from the return pump.
 

DrZoidburg

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@Shirak a Right I would only worry if it gets clogged or some un for seen event. Perfect would be 2x the return size. Could put a pump screen over it. Can it handle that pump though probably. This why I would use bigger diameter, and a gate to quiet it.
 
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Ryan1277

Ryan1277

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Where are the holes located? Seems like there should be some sort of internal or external overflow with at least 2 drain lines. A single line is a tank overflow disaster waiting to happen. Can you post a photo of the setup?

Regarding your comment on overflowing the sump if the return pump is too weak. It can't happen as the only water that should flow into the drain is the water that is pumped into the tank from the return pump.
 
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Ryan1277

Ryan1277

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It’s internal in the corner, glasscage tank. Only two holes. One is a 1.5 inch bulkhead and the other a 1 inch bulkhead. I have original bulkheads and check size with actual pipes I bought to make certain. It’s a solid tank, came with black bottom insert for barebotton or sand, corner glass over flow wrapped with black plastic panel in front of it.
 

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It’s internal in the corner, glasscage tank. Only two holes. One is a 1.5 inch bulkhead and the other a 1 inch bulkhead. I have original bulkheads and check size with actual pipes I bought to make certain. It’s a solid tank, came with black bottom insert for barebotton or sand, corner glass over flow wrapped with black plastic panel in front of it.
Just want to avoid 1:1 could risk tank over flowing onto floor if pump too powerful. Imo with other pump specs maybe could get away with 1:1.25, or even keep the 1:1.5. Maybe a valve to quiet, maybe a screen and maintenance to avoid clogging. A snail, or algae etc.. Bigger is less likely to clog. With only two holes your hand is kind of forced.
 

Shirak

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It’s internal in the corner, glasscage tank. Only two holes. One is a 1.5 inch bulkhead and the other a 1 inch bulkhead. I have original bulkheads and check size with actual pipes I bought to make certain. It’s a solid tank, came with black bottom insert for barebotton or sand, corner glass over flow wrapped with black plastic panel in front of it.
yeah I have no idea what any of that means. It has a corner glass overflow? Are both holes located on the drain side of the overflow? A picture is worth 1000 words..
 
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Shirak

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Could have another hole drilled?

I have a tank with a single drain corner overflow for about 30 years.. it's overflowed about 30 times lol Now I run the drain wide open and don't turn the gate valve down. It sounds like Niagra Falls in my office.
 

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@Shirak a Right I would only worry if it gets clogged or some un for seen event. Perfect would be 2x the return size. Could put a pump screen over it. Can it handle that pump though probably. This why I would use bigger diameter, and a gate to quiet it
Remember that drain area is pi*r^2. A 2 inch drain is 4* the area of a 1 inch supply.
 

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I run somewhere around 6-800 gph through a 1/2” bean animal no problem on my frag tank. I run a 1” bean animal on my main tank with 800 gph and the plumbing looks ridiculous.

People say that the main drain will clog but the valve is the limiting factor and both 1/2” and 1” valves are open the same amount since they are flowing similar values. If the main siphon clogs the secondary goes full siphon and if that clogs the emergency goes full siphon.
 

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@Ryan1277
Properly tuned with a gate valve, any plumbing size can be made silent, as long as the main drain pipe in the overflow box is submerged enough to stop a venturi sucking surface air.

If I were in your shoes I'd run a Herbie with the 1.5" as the main using a gate valve, and the 1" as the emerg.
Then I'd run 1" returns over the top. A single 1" from the pump split into 2 loclines to spread the return water out - or just a single pointing away from the overflow weir - something to keep the surface water moving and agitated to get the oils dust etc. to move to the box and out of the tank.
A 1.5" gate valve is pricey compared to a 1" but it's just a one-time purchase.

Downsizing from 1.5" to 1.25" is going to make it difficult to find local inexpensive plumbing for most anyone.
 

Greg P

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Currently I have a jabeo pump that was given to me specs on it are Max Flow Rate: 3500LPH(900GPH); not sure if that’s big enough or not.
That's a perfect size pump for you with a 90g tank. Approx 4' head loss will put you in the sweet spot for return flow.

I guess using a gate valve will help from overflowing the sump if the drain is to big and pump to weak
How much water flows back to the sump is not controlled by the drain but rather the pump flow to the DT.
Your sump will only overflow if you overfill it while it's running and then shut off the pump.
The only other overflowing you could get would be the tank itself if the gate valve is closed too much.
 

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