200 Gal Cycle levels and Fish

[Bichito]

Hello friends,

My new 200 tank is cycling since 4 weeks ago, evey looks great and I used a mix of wate from my cube aquarium.

right now my levels are:

PH 8
Nitrites 0.1
Ammonia 0.0
Nitrates are around 100

Im new in this of the cycling, not much support locally where each reefer thinks diferent.

2 weks ago I turned the lights off because of excessive algae on the rocks.

So, when can I add the first fish to help the cicle to finish?

Sorry if is a repeated thread

I really appreciate the support

 

[brandon429]

This cycle is finished a while ago. Nitrite is no longer factored in cycling


your main choice now is based on fish disease controls, those decide when you can add fish as the tank is ready


to choose a disease protocol you’d study the fish disease forum all day today, learning about quarantine and fallow before adding a single fish

 

[Bichito]

This cycle is finished a while ago. Nitrite is no longer factored in cycling


your main choice now is based on fish disease controls, those decide when you can add fish as the tank is ready


to choose a disease protocol you’d study the fish disease forum all day today, learning about quarantine and fallow before adding a single fish

Thanks Brandon , I really apreciate your help

 

[Bichito]

This cycle is finished a while ago. Nitrite is no longer factored in cycling


your main choice now is based on fish disease controls, those decide when you can add fish as the tank is ready


to choose a disease protocol you’d study the fish disease forum all day today, learning about quarantine and fallow before adding a single fish

Brandon, any specific link to study???

Do I need to do a water change or just do a regular drop climatization and drop the clown ??I suppose the fish will help to start the nitrates to drop.

Thanks again

 

[brandon429]

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

non digital ammonia test kit readings (api, Red Sea, nyos, seachem badges) make you think you aren’t cycled when indeed you are if you owned a $200 expensive seneye meter, you’d never be doubting your cycle status. since .01% of the reefing population owns these, we need a way to help the...

www.reef2reef.com

approaching 20 pages testing out specific start date reef tank cycling, no tests needed. we factored your time underwater, duration and additives to arrive at the known ammonia control date


your surface area was deduced by the fact you've kept and fed fish multiple times over a month, it requires active surface area to be present to not crash while doing that.


and good bottle bac usually


nitrite can be retired permanently, don't own the kit. the reason you're seeing a work thread vs a peer reviewed link is because bottle bac sellers write current cycling rules, that above is free cycling science which is totally opposite of for-sale cycling science.

nitrite matters 100% in todays cycling because bottle bac sellers have something to sell.

you would cease both ammonia testing and nitrite testing going forward here since the cycle is done

you can test for nitrite and it ranges high to low across tanks, new and matured, so there's nothing to pinpoint regarding nitrate it runs both very high and very low across all kinds of successful reefs. I know successful Zeovit systems running 0-1 nitrate and I know Paul B's old system running sps and 156 ppm nitrate, aiming for a given nitrate level is pure guess, nothing to do with cycling if that helps in planning any. focus 100% on fish disease control prevention, fallow and quarantine.

 

[Bichito]

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

non digital ammonia test kit readings (api, Red Sea, nyos, seachem badges) make you think you aren’t cycled when indeed you are if you owned a $200 expensive seneye meter, you’d never be doubting your cycle status. since .01% of the reefing population owns these, we need a way to help the...

www.reef2reef.com

approaching 20 pages testing out specific start date reef tank cycling, no tests needed. we factored your time underwater, duration and additives to arrive at the known ammonia control date


your surface area was deduced by the fact you've kept and fed fish multiple times over a month, it requires active surface area to be present to not crash while doing that.


and good bottle bac usually


nitrite can be retired permanently, don't own the kit. the reason you're seeing a work thread vs a peer reviewed link is because bottle bac sellers write current cycling rules, that above is free cycling science which is totally opposite of for-sale cycling science.

nitrite matters 100% in todays cycling because bottle bac sellers have something to sell.

you would cease both ammonia testing and nitrite testing going forward here since the cycle is done

you can test for nitrite and it ranges high to low across tanks, new and matured, so there's nothing to pinpoint regarding nitrate it runs both very high and very low across all kinds of successful reefs. I know successful Zeovit systems running 0-1 nitrate and I know Paul B's old system running sps and 156 ppm nitrate, aiming for a given nitrate level is pure guess, nothing to do with cycling if that helps in planning any. focus 100% on fish disease control prevention, fallow and quarantine.

Thanks Brandon

so Basically nitrates are not going to kill the fist fish?
regards

 

[brandon429]

Yes it's true Pauls tank runs 150 ppm at times he's said, zeovit tanks run very low its all an acceptable range