210 Gallon Aquarium Help

[Grill]

I know this is old , but I'm looking to redo my top bracing and came across this it's same idea I had but a little different and I think I wanna go this route. I have a question tho. On the T build plate where u have galvanized Steel Cable ran from how did u attach the cable to the plate? On one image it looks like the T plate had an extra hole and u just took the cable up Thu one n then the other and back out and crimped the cable but on the other where the T plate didn't have that second bolt hole it looks like the Steel Cable is attached below the T plate and a blot is attaching something to the T plate to hole the Cable . So what are u using there? Thank you for you time .

I posted photos of two different tanks. My main display (over three years so far) I used galvanized wires and attached them with a bolt, the reason I did this is so the screen covers would lay flush. I helped a friend with a tank and he didn't use any bolts, just attached the wire directly to the plate. I works just as good if not better but his screen lays on top of the wires which I don't like. (purely aesthetic) One thing I'll mention is go with vinyl wrapped wire. Hope this helps, good luck on your build.

 

[soadeathdealer]

I posted photos of two different tanks. My main display (over three years so far) I used galvanized wires and attached them with a bolt, the reason I did this is so the screen covers would lay flush. I helped a friend with a tank and he didn't use any bolts, just attached the wire directly to the plate. I works just as good if not better but his screen lays on top of the wires which I don't like. (purely aesthetic) One thing I'll mention is go with vinyl wrapped wire. Hope this helps, good luck on your build.

Thanks for the reply. Yea I like the look of urs with the wire and bolt but I do worry that the bolt is a weak link between the cable and the plate so I'm torn between the two ways . I do plan to use vinyl wrapped wire tho and appreciate the suggestion and the reply

 

[scriss22]

Euro brace is an option, I think cables and L channel give the tank a more modern/industrial look. Not to mention much easier to obtain and cut material. Aluminum channels can be found at any hardware store... Aluminum Angle Bar I usually reseal large tanks 6ft or larger, depending on the size tank they have different lengths and thickness. As for the cross braces... Galvanized Steel Cable Wire Rope works well, again different gauges of wire and different lengths. There are kits you can buy but there is a section were they will cut the individual gauge and length for you. Stay away from the sealed Stainless Steel Vinyl Coated Wire because its difficult to work with. Joining plates are used to attach the cables and L angles together, again different sizes, shapes and thickness. I use J-B Weld Professional to adhere the joining plates to the L angles. Anything over 3500 tensile strength, they have a quick weld that I have never tried but should work. I work on tanks in the garage so be check the proper temps when it can be applied. Then some generic black oxide, nickel or zinc tops (cant remember) non rust for the top of the plates. Purely aesthetics. Here are a few more photos. One of my own built tank using low iron glass. If this helps anyone give me thumbs up. Thanks

I know this is old but I’m contemplating buying a 180 gallon for $100 that needs a reseal and trim replacement and I like this look a lot. I see you said you use JB weld but you also have like rivets or something attaching the brackets to the L angles. Was it hard to get the bolt/rivet through the L angles? Could I use just the JB Weld? Does the bottom need the cross braces?

 

[Grill]

I know this is old but I’m contemplating buying a 180 gallon for $100 that needs a reseal and trim replacement and I like this look a lot. I see you said you use JB weld but you also have like rivets or something attaching the brackets to the L angles. Was it hard to get the bolt/rivet through the L angles? Could I use just the JB Weld? Does the bottom need the cross braces?

The tank is still up and doing good. As for the "rivets" they are just decorative caps held with a rubber sealant because I didn't like the look of the mending plates. I was also worried water could get in the holes and would be difficult to remove. For the bottom of the tank I used some metal straps held by JBWeld. If using aluminum angle bars for the brace be sure to purchase the JBWeld for metal. Good luck on your project.

 

[Trzenoga]

@Grill - Love the way you rebuilt the frames and think they look awesome! Was there a particular reason behind using the 1 1/2 x 96 @ 1/16 or would a 1 x 96 @ 1/20 work all the same? Im currently rebuilding a busted frame on my 180 and just want to make sure everything will hold.

 

[Grill]

@Grill - Love the way you rebuilt the frames and think they look awesome! Was there a particular reason behind using the 1 1/2 x 96 @ 1/16 or would a 1 x 96 @ 1/20 work all the same? Im currently rebuilding a busted frame on my 180 and just want to make sure everything will hold.

I've re-built several tanks this way and have used both. For a 180gal I think 1" @ 1/20 would work. Definitely be cheaper to purchase and maybe even have a slimmer look. You can actually buy both channels, take home then decide. (return the other) With my 210gal the reason with the 1.5" @ 1/16 was the bottom pane of glass is .75" thick and the side are .5" I wanted the extra clearance and support of the larger sturdier L channels.

Take photos and give us updates. Good luck on the build.

 

[Txoutlaw]

I've re-built several tanks this way and have used both. For a 180gal I think 1" @ 1/20 would work. Definitely be cheaper to purchase and maybe even have a slimmer look. You can actually buy both channels, take home then decide. (return the other) With my 210gal the reason with the 1.5" @ 1/16 was the bottom pane of glass is .75" thick and the side are .5" I wanted the extra clearance and support of the larger sturdier L channels.

Take photos and give us updates. Good luck on the build.

Did you ever think of using real rivets?also some 1in aluminum flat bar for the cross bracing?I have a 75g i bought brand new and who ever put it together didn't push the bottom frame all the way down on the glass.its only on one corner but it sits crooked and I'm afraid to fill it up.i was thinking about taking the frames off and going this route.

 

[Grill]

Did you ever think of using real rivets?also some 1in aluminum flat bar for the cross bracing?I have a 75g i bought brand new and who ever put it together didn't push the bottom frame all the way down on the glass.its only on one corner but it sits crooked and I'm afraid to fill it up.i was thinking about taking the frames off and going this route.

Definitely don't fill it if it's crooked. I would just remove the frame and re-insert it if that's possible. For 75 gallon crams I think you can actually buy the frames....

Plastic Aquarium Frames

Industry Leader in Wholesale Plastic Aquarium Tank Frames and Aquarium frames. We also carry strip Lights and Iron Stands.

www.aquariumframeswholesale.com

 

[The Amateur]

I've built several tanks from scratch. Without a doubt you want a center brace on a 210 with .5" glass. Most 210's are 6ft long some are 7ft. either way a center brace is needed. Aluminum angles and joining plates work well to brace the top of an aquarium. Here are a couple of 210's I've built both 7ft. Hope this helps.

Looks fantastic. What do you make your joining plates out of?

 

[synkist1224]

Wow Robo tank awsome with the superior cable brace system

How did you attach the cable and where did you buy the corner braces.

 

[Grill]

How did you attach the cable and where did you buy the corner braces.

Joining plates can be found on Amazon. Joining Plates They have various shapes & sizes. Be sure to get aluminum vs. steel. The cable is looped with a crimping tool Crimp Sleeve and then I attached it to a bolt inserted in the joining plate. Use vinyl wrap cable as steel cable will rust.