230 gallon in-wall, room divider, reef build
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MarsRover
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I just set up my BRS 6 stage Universal Plus RO/DI unit outside. ZERO WASTE! California reefer here 
Still need to drill it to the wall but here it is! I have the RO output line coming into my sliding glass door going into a 35gal trash can (temporarily, until it is full, then I'll make saltwater, use, and move the can back outside).
Heres the best part:
My "waste" line is going to a rain barrel up on the upper yard so i can water my plants with the water and not feel bad!
Going to bolt it to the wall behind the tree branch tomorrow!
Still need to drill it to the wall but here it is! I have the RO output line coming into my sliding glass door going into a 35gal trash can (temporarily, until it is full, then I'll make saltwater, use, and move the can back outside).
Heres the best part:
My "waste" line is going to a rain barrel up on the upper yard so i can water my plants with the water and not feel bad!
Going to bolt it to the wall behind the tree branch tomorrow!
KJAG
Rogue
Just curious as to why you'd take up that real estate in your display instead of keeping it towards the back in Bean orientation paired with one of the most critical aspects of his design: the coast to coast.
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MarsRover
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Not sure what you are talking about "coast to coast"? Can you please elaborate?
There is no "back" to my tank. This tank is going to be almost a full 360 viewable tank, defining the four main rooms in my home (see first pictures posted). The only obstructions to viewing glass will be on the short ends, there will be a column to support the beam holding up the roof above the tank. That and I have specially designed it so as to minimize the space the standpipe stack occupies in the tank.
I don't like the idea of seeing the back of an overflow through glass where you could instead be seeing coral. I plan to cover the centrally located standpipes with rock all the way up to the surface. Essentially, i'm building an overflow box that is a few inches deep and doing it out of cemented together Marco rockwork with standpipes and return pipe in center. I want this to look as organic as possible. No plastic visible!
More CAD images to come so folks can see my vision.....and help me avoid any pitfalls i may have missed....stay tuned!!!
KJAG
Rogue
Copy that, and you can attach as many CAD images as you like, and I say this respectfully, but just as long as you understand the physics/ end result of going sans overflow box, and the fact that youre exponentially limiting your surface skimming capabilities by running only a full siphon and open channel as your "overflow."
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MarsRover
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Can you please provide information as to how you believe i could do it better?
I design and fly spacecraft for a living. I'm not quite 100% fluent on the design styles that have worked for others and i'm not 100% sure i understand what you mean with certain jargon. I made this thread not claiming i know everything, but instead, to collaborate with others and accept enlightened and constructive input/suggestions/criticism.
I think by "coast 2 coast" you mean having the overflow box extend all the way across one length of the tank. While i do agree, this does increase the surface skimming, i think there are other ways to have sufficient overflow to ensure good surface skimming.
Thank you!
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chefjpaul
2500 Club Member
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MarsRover
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Thank you chefjpaul!
Maybe i'm not seeing what you all are talking about? My intention is to do exactly what these acrylic overflows are doing in your link but instead of being made of acrylic, they will be constructed out of rock that is glued/sealed together with Marco-mortar. the stand pipes will be integrated inside (as i assume the overflows in your link have).
I have been toying with the idea of not making the overflow box full-tank-height-deep (as shown in your link) but instead taking a different approach to having a depth more like this setup:
that way, i don't have the inevitable stagnant, detritus trap at the bottom of the box like the full-depth, bean animal integrated acrylic (or similar) overflow boxes have.
Am i thinking about this wrong?
KJAG
Rogue
Here's a screen grab from Beans website with an example of how surface skimming works.
Well the screenshot wouldn't load for some reason so here's the link. The "surface renewal" portion of the article breaks down the significance of a weir, preferably as wide as possible( otherwise known as a coast to coast)
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
So again, with your current orientation of your system in your CADs, you will not be reaping the benefits of this phenomenon, which honestly is no small variable. It's a massive difference in relation to water clarity (in my experience), in that organics aren't getting "backed up" waiting to travel down your standpipes. This is where a long weir comes in to play. Your standpipe system will work, just wanted to make sure you really wanna pull the trigger on bailing out on one of the most satisfying elements of Beans design: the weir. As for "visible plastic," it's simply not an issue with painted glass and matching acrylic colors. Forgive me, this is a poor example of a photo( I just had concrete poured and polished so I can't walk in the tank room at the moment ) but I have a 6' weir on the back of this tank. I've run them for years and you can't even see the overflow from the display even with halides/ leds running.
Not telling you it won't work; it will. Just wanted to make sure as a fellow reefer you were aware of the C2C and the function/physics of a weir(and that you absolutely can virtually hide them) before you pull the trigger.
OP
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MarsRover
Well-Known Member
Here's a screen grab from Beans website with an example of how surface skimming works.
Well the screenshot wouldn't load for some reason so here's the link. The "surface renewal" portion of the article breaks down the significance of a weir, preferably as wide as possible( otherwise known as a coast to coast)
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
So again, with your current orientation of your system in your CADs, you will not be reaping the benefits of this phenomenon, which honestly is no small variable. It's a massive difference in relation to water clarity (in my experience), in that organics aren't getting "backed up" waiting to travel down your standpipes. This is where a long weir comes in to play. Your standpipe system will work, just wanted to make sure you really wanna pull the trigger on bailing out on one of the most satisfying elements of Beans design: the weir. As for "visible plastic," it's simply not an issue with painted glass and matching acrylic colors. Forgive me, this is a poor example of a photo( I just had concrete poured and polished so I can't walk in the tank room at the moment ) but I have a 6' weir on the back of this tank. I've run them for years and you can't even see the overflow from the display even with halides/ leds running.
Not telling you it won't work; it will. Just wanted to make sure as a fellow reefer you were aware of the C2C and the function/physics of a weir(and that you absolutely can virtually hide them) before you pull the trigger.
Thank you for taking the time to provide a thoughtful answer!
Unfortunately, what you are talking about regarding my comment on "visible plastic" doesn't apply to me. Neither does your comments about painted glass and matching acrylic colors or your picture, unfortunately.
My tank will have both front and back visible to different rooms. So too will the sides be visible (with a column blocking only a fraction of them in the center of each side pane.
I understand what you are saying regarding surface skimming being reduced.
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Ok I got to this a little to late I would make the tank wider then it is tall make it 36 wide and 18 tall u will def not regret that
Second with the way u have it set up unkess ur using a ton of flow ur surface will get that scum like residue I recomend going somewhat like a peninsula and have the overflow against one of the towers u have in mind on the load bearing wall and then return over the opposite side to have continual water movement with all those pipes inside the tank u are going to be giving up a lot of real estate
Just my opinion of course it's ur tank
Ps ur planning is awesome with the cad
Second with the way u have it set up unkess ur using a ton of flow ur surface will get that scum like residue I recomend going somewhat like a peninsula and have the overflow against one of the towers u have in mind on the load bearing wall and then return over the opposite side to have continual water movement with all those pipes inside the tank u are going to be giving up a lot of real estate
Just my opinion of course it's ur tank
Ps ur planning is awesome with the cad
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MarsRover
Well-Known Member
I appreciate your opinion!
Unfortunately, for better or for worse, the pipes are where they are and dimensions are set. Tank is under construction as we speak.
That said, I have planned for lots of flow. I have asked for a 1.5" return line which by Internet says something crazy like 4kgph at normal pressures. I'll have to get a mega-pump.
Also, skimmers. What do you all think of the Tunze DOC Protein Skimmer 9415???
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Not a fan of tunze but that's me and that's because I had their worst skimmer ever made
But everyone I know who has a reef octopus regal loves it and it pulls out junk
Also deltec puts out a great product
At 1.5 pipes in full syphon that's about 1500 gph or a little more
I am using 1.5 drains in a shadow overflow box with two vectra m1s as the returns and it can handle them both at 80% I didn't try to go higher but I'm sure it can handle it might be noisy tho
But everyone I know who has a reef octopus regal loves it and it pulls out junk
Also deltec puts out a great product
At 1.5 pipes in full syphon that's about 1500 gph or a little more
I am using 1.5 drains in a shadow overflow box with two vectra m1s as the returns and it can handle them both at 80% I didn't try to go higher but I'm sure it can handle it might be noisy tho
Toomnymods
Active Member
you don't need a mega pump pumping 4k gph thru your sump it's best to have a slower rated pump to have the "extra contact time for your canister filter and skimmer to remove waste.. Also as far as a skimmer get a Reef Octopus Elite 220 or a bubbleking supermarin 250 both of these are top of the class
Two m1 returns for a 200g? That provides little benefit imo. You don't want river rapids in your sump and if your flow is more than your skinmer and reactors can handle what's the point? I have 600 gph return on my 300, couldn't imagine the need for more.
Btw I've done a drain like the original one you had drawn up. The earlier poster was right.. it's very poor for surface skimming and my surface looked like an oil wreck with dust and bubbles mixed in. Hurt par too... I hated it.
805reef
Active Member
Are you going to have the rocks sealed to the bottom of the tank and completely sealed on the sides?
I don't know how your design is going to work, but if you make it so the rocks provide surface skimming that you might be fine. Did you not like this type of overflow, usually you see people with these put rocks around to hide the overflow:
I don't know how your design is going to work, but if you make it so the rocks provide surface skimming that you might be fine. Did you not like this type of overflow, usually you see people with these put rocks around to hide the overflow:
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