230 gallon in-wall, room divider, reef build

Florida_Angel

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Zip ties removed!!!! It holds!!! Super stable actually. Surprised.

Hoping to be done with the remaining rock work this vacation weekend....maybe today....but definitely have it filled, or getting started....before we head back to work Wednesday!!!!

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You have gone waaaay more technical than I have with my nano tank - but this rock structure is so awesome! Really looking forward to seeing updated pics in the future!
 
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MarsRover

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I don't know...I think it came out pretty cool! I'm reading through your whole thread...and I can see this is going to turn out looking pretty neat in your tank!
And like everyone else on here...your CAD skills are insane! lol maybe you should get into tank designs as a side hobby!

Thank you!

Question - why did you go with having the sand so deep?

Deep sandbed or as some around here call DSB, is supposed to grown aerobic bacteria in the top layers and anaerobic bacteria in the lower layers. I plan to....eventually....have a pretty heavy bioload and i wanted all the filtration i could get. Additionally, the tank is SUPER deep. Even with the 5" sandbed, reaching the bottom the water nears my shoulder!

Impressive build, following

Thank you!


***WARNING*** personal note:
Well folks, been going through some signifiant life events lately so i have been very preoccupied. Luckily, among these life changes has included a job move within my current company and a raise. Great timing.
*****************


My snowflake eel finishes up her Cholorquine Phosphate treatment today! tossed into her filter some purigen and carbon. going to give it a few days to fully get out of the water. Screen top build kit is in the mail, should arrive any day now.

looking at building my bigger QT system so i can prepare for my big fish order ;)

Will keep you all posted.
 

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Thank you!



Deep sandbed or as some around here call DSB, is supposed to grown aerobic bacteria in the top layers and anaerobic bacteria in the lower layers. I plan to....eventually....have a pretty heavy bioload and i wanted all the filtration i could get. Additionally, the tank is SUPER deep. Even with the 5" sandbed, reaching the bottom the water nears my shoulder!



Thank you!


***WARNING*** personal note:
Well folks, been going through some signifiant life events lately so i have been very preoccupied. Luckily, among these life changes has included a job move within my current company and a raise. Great timing.
*****************


My snowflake eel finishes up her Cholorquine Phosphate treatment today! tossed into her filter some purigen and carbon. going to give it a few days to fully get out of the water. Screen top build kit is in the mail, should arrive any day now.

looking at building my bigger QT system so i can prepare for my big fish order ;)

Will keep you all posted.

Ok, gotcha! I'm still fairly new to all this, and I've only dived into it with a nano tank as my first :) but I am definitely planning on getting into the larger tanks...I just am always amazed at all the effort and research people put into the filtration! I wouldn't even know where to begin with all that! But yes, will definitely be following this tank's progression :)
 
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MarsRover

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Ok, gotcha! I'm still fairly new to all this, and I've only dived into it with a nano tank as my first :) but I am definitely planning on getting into the larger tanks...I just am always amazed at all the effort and research people put into the filtration! I wouldn't even know where to begin with all that! But yes, will definitely be following this tank's progression :)

Welp, when you are ready to crush the coral (haha like bite the bullet....except less violent...) give a shout and i'd be happy to provide some guidance. Once you get into it, there are some really basic basics that all filtration has, and then there are the flashy things that you need, thing you can try, or things you probably don't need but some people have.

As for starting with a nano, nanos are surprisingly harder, though, CAN be cheaper. My avatar is a really poor photo of a macintosh classic computer i had that i gutted and filled with a nano reef.

Thanks everyone for your inputs! Really making me feel better after all the life happening this past week. I'm feeling good about this weekend and i think i'm going to get some stuff done on the tank! Will let you all know!
 
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WOW.....so after spending HOURS troubleshooting something weird going on with my platinum thermistor (PT100 - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3290). A PT100 is a temperature "sensing" probe that i am using to detect temperature of the tank and have my computer switch on/off the heater to keep the tank warm.

Everything i could think of had failed..... I then had a nutso theory as a last ditch resort and turns out it was correct.

The PT100 has a metal cap on the sensing end of the wire. When that wire touches the salt water in the sump, the readings freeze (i.e. the value no longer changes....like at all.....) but then right when i remove it from the water's surface, it starts bouncing around with noise, as it should. Touch the surface of the water, no reading changes.....

So then what i was wondering if somehow the PT100 was shorting itself out on the saltwater.... so i decided to get a cup, filled with tank water and dunked the PT100 in there and the readings kept bouncing away.... okay.....last idea.....one of the electronic components in the tank are messing with it. Electric motors (pumps) emit an insane amount of growing/collapsing magnetic fields..... I guessed it would be the Vectra, but i tried everything else first and the only think that caused the readings to just stop bouncing (falsely) was the vectra.

The Vectra L1 for some reason interferes with the PT100 some how electromagnetically!

So, what i am doing now is electrically insulating (heat shrink tube and a dab of hotglue) the metal tip of the PT100 and seeing if that works.... Wish me luck!

Update: WORKS!

I also just went and measured the water and it turns out the Vectra L1 is leaking about 5mVolts into the water. I wonder if that was screwing up my PT100 amplifier causing it to "freeze" on the value it was at when it encountered that voltage....

Next, to code up the triggering of the heater solenoid! Just in time, socal is starting to get too cool to run heaterless....
 
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Alrighty. I have my heater controller all setup and it seems to be pretty stable!

IMG_4478.JPG


Now to document the successful way to do this so others may follow if desired:

Keywords: Heater, Temperature, Temperature Controller, Heater Controller, PT100, PT, Platinum Thermistor, RTD

Okay now that that is out of the way here we go:
This be bbcode.org!
Parts List:

IMG_4479.JPG


1. Setup the Pi, touchscreen, cobbler, and breadboard as per the information found on Adafruit. If you need help, feel free to PM me.
2. With your PI unplugged, Hook up the PT100 Amplifier and PT100 as per the information found on Adafruit. If you need help, feel free to PM me.
3. Setup the relay, plug in the heater (and a lamp during testing) into the "normally off" ports. Run a wire from the - terminal on the relay to the Pi's ground. Run a wire from the + terminal to one of the pins on the breadboard for the cobbler (my code has it going to pin 5)
IMG_4481.JPG
IMG_4480.JPG


Now, here is my code. You may need to manipulate the file locations so that the scripts know where stuff is going on YOUR pi. Open up the terminal on your Pi, and save the following code as NAME_OF_YOUR_PROGRAM.py


If you'd like further explanation on the code, or if you have issues running it on your PI feel free to PM me for help!

Code:
#!/usr/bin/env python
# -*- coding: utf-8 -*-
#
# Code thrown together by Reef2Reef: MarsRover
# Please do not replicate or steal without giving appropriate credit! Thank you!
#
# 
# 51 mA max from all 3.3V GPIO pins. Each pin can only handle 16mA EACH
#
# Use a thermistor to read temps and illuminate LEDs based upon temps


import time, math
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import max31865
import datetime
import subprocess

########values to tweek by user:
temp_low = 77 #lowest temp for LEDs (F)
temp_high = 79 #highest temp for LEDs (F)
number_of_samples_running_ave = 100
outlier_rejection_percent = 0.25
linear_offset_value = -2 + (0.93*1.8)  # minus to offset down, plus to offset up
heater_channel = 5  #Pi's pin that the heater relay's + port is plugged into 
#########################################

#define consts
RUNNING = True
temp_list = []
sample_number = 0
last_average = 0
heater_on = 0

#set GPIO pins to Broadcom numbering system
GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)
GPIO.setup(heater_channel,GPIO.OUT)
GPIO.output(heater_channel, GPIO.LOW)


#
############################
############################
############################
##create a function to take a temp reading
###########################
###########################
# which we convert to F and return to our main loop
# get these values from: http://www.thinksrs.com/downloads/programs/Therm%20Calc/NTCCalibrator/NTCcalculator.htm
def temperature_reading():

     total = 0
     average_reading = 0
     global sample_number
     global last_average

     #using the RTD.....
     #Clk yellow 4.    Green SDO 17.       Orange SDI 27.      Brown CS 22.
     csPin = 22         #CS - this is the Chip Select pin, drop it low to start an SPI transaction. Its an input to the chip
     misoPin = 17      #SDO - this is the Serial Data Out / Master In Slave Out pin, for data sent from the MAX31865 to your processor
     mosiPin = 27      #SDI - this is the Serial Data In / Master Out Slave In pin, for data sent from your processor to the MAX31865
     clkPin = 4       #SCK - This is the SPI Clock pin, its an input to the chip

     #Grab a temperature reading from the PT100 attached to the MAX31865 ADC-Amp
     sample_number += 1
     max = max31865.max31865(csPin,misoPin,mosiPin,clkPin)
     tempF = max.readTemp()
     tempF += linear_offset_value


     #Append the value to the temperature array
     temp_list.append(tempF)

     #perform outlier rejection

     print "last average: ", str(last_average)
     if (last_average != 0): 
#          print 'In last average != 0!!!!!!!\n\n'
#          print 'temp F: ',str(tempF)
#          print 'outlier reject %: ', str(outlier_rejection_percent)
#          print 'last average reading:  ', str(last_average)
#          print 'outlier max: 1+outlier_rejection_percent)*last_average: ', str((1+outlier_rejection_percent)*last_average)
#          print 'outlier min: 1-outlier_rejection_percent)*last_average: ', str((1-outlier_rejection_percent)*last_average)

          if ((tempF > (1+outlier_rejection_percent)*last_average) or (tempF < (1-outlier_rejection_percent)*last_average)):
               #if there is an outlier, ditch the sample, and move on to taking the next sample
               print '!!!!! OUTLIER REJECTION !!!!!'
               print 'tempF = ', str(tempF)
               print 'average = ', str(average_reading)
               print 'last average = ', str(last_average)
               print 'tempF is outside the outlier detection band set at ' + str(outlier_rejection_percent) + 'percent of the average'
               print '!!!!! OUTLIER REJECTION !!!!!'
               del temp_list[-1]
               sample_number -= 1
               print '!!!!! OUTLIER REJECTION !!!!!'
          else:
               #if there is NOT an outlier, make sure we haven't exceed our number of sample running average number, and then take the average and write it to the file
#               print 'didn\'t find an outlier.....'
               average_reading = 0
               total = 0
          
               #Take off the oldest reading if we have taken more than the max running sample average number of samples
               #number_of_samples_running_ave
               if len(temp_list) > number_of_samples_running_ave:
                    del temp_list[0]
          
               #average our last chunk of samples to generate our running average value
               for samples in temp_list:
                    total+=samples
          
               average_reading = total/len(temp_list)
               last_average = average_reading
          
               #now write the values to their proper text files:
          
               F1 = open('/home/pi/ExamplePICode/tempRunningAverageOutput_PT100_RAW.txt', 'a')
               F1.write(str(sample_number)+','+str(tempF)+'\n')
               F1.close()
          
               F2 = open('/home/pi/ExamplePICode/tempRunningAverageOutput_PT100_runningAVE.txt', 'a')
               F2.write(str(sample_number)+','+str(average_reading)+'\n')
               F2.close()
          
               print '***** SAMPLE: ', str(sample_number)
               print '***** TEMP: ',str(tempF), ' F'
               print '*****', len(temp_list), ' sample AVE : ',str(average_reading), ' F'
               print '***** TEMP: ',str((tempF-32)/1.8), ' C'
               print '*****', len(temp_list), ' sample AVE : ',str((average_reading-32)/1.8), ' C'

     else:
          print '....last_average = 0 .....must be the first run....'
          print 'first reading: ', str(tempF) , ' degF'
          print 'setting the average equal to our first sample value.....'
          average_reading = tempF
          last_average = average_reading

#     raw_input("Press Enter to continue...")
     return average_reading

###########################
###########################


#main LOOP
try:
     while RUNNING:
          # take temp reading
          t = temperature_reading()

	#temp_low = 77 #lowest temp for LEDs (F)
	#temp_high = 79 #highest temp for LEDs (F)

          if (t <= temp_low):
               if (heater_on == 0):
                    date_time = str(datetime.datetime.now())
                    date_time = date_time.replace(" ", "")
                    tweet = '(' + date_time + ')' + ' Turning heater on! Temp is ' + str(t) + ' F'
                    print tweet
                    heater_on = 1
                    #### Now tweet!
#                   [code removed for sharing simplicity]
                    #### done tweeting....
               GPIO.output(heater_channel, GPIO.HIGH)
          elif (t>= temp_high):
               if (heater_on == 1):
                    date_time = str(datetime.datetime.now())
                    date_time = date_time.replace(" ", "")
                    tweet = '(' + date_time + ')' + ' Turning heater off! Temp is ' + str(t) + ' F'
                    print tweet
                    GPIO.output(heater_channel, GPIO.LOW)
                    heater_on = 0
                    #### Now tweet!
                   #                   [code removed for sharing simplicity]
                    #### done tweeting....
               GPIO.output(heater_channel, GPIO.LOW)
          else:
               print 'Temp is ' + str(t) + ' F'

          # time interval for taking readings in seconds
          time.sleep(1)

# if CTRL+C is pressed the main loop is broken
except KeyboardInterrupt:
     RUNNING = False
     print "\Quitting"


# Actions under 'finally' will always be called 
# regardless of what stopped the program
finally:
     # stop and cleanup to finish cleanly so the pins are available to be used again
     print "\Cleaning up!"
     GPIO.cleanup()


Now the visualization code.... Here is the code i came up with to make the plot that you see in the first image in this post!:
Code:
import matplotlib.pyplot as plt
import matplotlib.animation as animation
import time

fig = plt.figure(figsize=(8,8),facecolor='white')

ax1 = fig.add_subplot(1,1,1)

#/home/pi/ExamplePICode/tempRunningAverageOutput_PT100_runningAVE.txt
#/home/pi/ExamplePICode/tempRunningAverageOutput_PT100_RAW.txt

def animate(i):
    ThermistorDataAVERAGE = open("/home/pi/ExamplePICode/tempRunningAverageOutput_PT100_runningAVE.txt","r").read()
    ThermistorDataRAW = open("/home/pi/ExamplePICode/tempRunningAverageOutput_PT100_RAW.txt","r").read()
    AverageARRAY = ThermistorDataAVERAGE.split('\n')
    RawARRAY = ThermistorDataRAW.split('\n')


    xAVE = []
    yAVE = []
    for eachLine in AverageARRAY:
        if len(eachLine)>1:
            x,y = eachLine.split(',')
            xAVE.append(int(x))
            yAVE.append(float(y))


    xRAW = []
    yRAW = []
    for eachLine in RawARRAY:
        if len(eachLine)>1:
            x,y = eachLine.split(',')
            xRAW.append(int(x))
            yRAW.append(float(y))



    ax1.clear()
    ax1.plot(xRAW,yRAW,'-r',label='Raw')
    ax1.plot(xAVE,yAVE,'-b',label='Average')
    ax1.legend(loc='upper left')
    plt.title('Temperature v Time')
    plt.xlabel('Sample Number')
    plt.ylabel('Temperature (degF)')
    plt.grid(True)

ani = animation.FuncAnimation(fig, animate, interval=1000)
plt.show()

Again, the file locations will need to be changed to whatever location you want the files to be stored in on your PI. If this doesn't make sense, just shoot me a PM and i can better explain.


This is probably the WORST tutorial i've ever written..... but with something like this it's much easier to help someone once they have all the gear in their hands. SO PLEASE! Don't be afraid to try it! Just PM me and i will walk you through it. Or, if you're in LA, i can help you do it in person!

Hope this helps someone!
 
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MarsRover

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Well, I gotta say folks, after being saved a couple times by it, i highly recommend an "overflow" pan to the bottom of your tank stand.

I also recommend the Honeywell lyric leak detector in that "pan".

Last time I went on vacation, some how my autodoser tube came out of the sump and was dosing onto the external wall of the sump. The lyric picked it up and sent me an alert to my phone. I immediately called my house/dog sitter and walked them through how to find the leak. Found it an all was well and good!

Highly recommended....

Photo below shows the leak "pan" i made along the bottom of my stand. Sump is sitting on top of some egg crate to allow drying under the sump tank in the event of a leak, and allows more water volume before overflowing the leak pan. Honeywell Lyric is just hanging out in the bottom of the pan.

IMG_4572.JPG
 
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MarsRover

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Wow! It has been a long time since the last time I purchased coral.....71 days!

My pretty, one-eyed snowflake eel finished her QT a weeks ago, but today, my coral finished their fishless 71days. My heater controller is doing pretty well:
IMG_4573.JPG


All of my coral has been migrated to the new tank from my old tank, and i have made my screen lids:
IMG_4575.JPG


I think it is time for my snowflake, my first tank vertebrate inhabitant, to go into her forever home! Starting her acclimation now over morning coffee.

Heres a pretty (poor) pano-FTS:
IMG_4540.JPG.jpeg
 
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MarsRover

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Very excited. My snowflake hasn't tried to escape at all. Yesterday I came home from being out for a few hours to find her free-swimming about the tank. I had originally planned to allow her a few days to acclimate before trying to feed her but this to me looked like she was searching for food. So I grabbed my gripper-tongs and put a chunk of squid on it and she immediately took it, gobbled it down, and jumped back into her tunnel-home.

Very stoked she is so happy and comfortable!
 
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Alright everyone, happy thanksgiving!

I've been trying to put out some fires the last few days.

My 2 Montipora capricornis that are supposed to be green with blue polyps are ALWAYS the first indicators that something is wrong in my tank. Unfortunately, this time things have tanked pretty hard. I did a triton a couple weeks ago and discovered pretty high levels of aluminum, wondering if it is from the concrete I used?

Results from 21 October 2017:
Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.16.03 AM.png

Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.16.12 AM.png

Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.16.18 AM.png

Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.16.26 AM.png


So I got 500mL CupriSorb and about the same amount of activated carbon and have been running both of those in my sump ever since.

Now I am battling something else! Always a fun time. I have been testing my water and I think I was being really stupid.... My alkalinity and calcium were through the floor. It's interesting, most of my corals look okay, with the exception of those two Montipora capricornis', and my Montipora stellata's bleached hard. The polyps still poke out but barely. Their white skeletons started to grow algae so i scooted them under the arch to shade them while they recover. The cap in the back right looks much better than the one in the foreground.
IMG_4921.JPG


My mysterious, I think Turbinaria, which is usually forest green with brown polyps, is another big indicator something is wrong because it usually starts to bleach lightly, after the capricornis'.
IMG_4917.JPG
IMG_4918.JPG


Also a hardy birdsnest, which usually grows like a weed, is being affected.
IMG_4920.JPG


A green eyed chalice is also taking a hit.
IMG_4919.JPG


My Ponape Birdnest (Seriatopora sp.) also a week or so ago started getting very dark polyps and is starting to dull in color.
IMG_4923.JPG


My other SPS's look okay. Here's a couple of them:
IMG_4922.JPG



I think there is a common denominator between what is hurting and what isn't. The fastest growers, but the less hardy of that group, started to show signs first, and now the hardy fastest growers are starting to show signs. The pieces i have that tend to be relatively slower growers are doing okay... I think this might also jive well with the fact that my parameters when i tested yesterday were here:
Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.32.54 AM.png
I have a feeling my coral's were hurting on account of their skeletons dissolving back into the water......?

So I set about getting things back in order....slowly....but also as expeditiously as i thought i could without causing further damages. Had to get creative with what I have on hand!

Here is my log from yesterday and today:
Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.36.37 AM.png


Basically I used redsea's KH coraline gro to boost the Alkalinity slowly while also using SeaChem's reef advantage calcium chloride (w/ Mg chloride etc...) to bring up my calcium. I successfully got my tank back within the golden "red box" on the dKH-Calcium chart (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry) thank you @Randy Holmes-Farley. And decided to let the tank chill out for the day.

In the mean time, I finally got around to finishing the plumbing for the return. I ditched the old flexpipe for hard pipe manifold I put together with multiple gate valves to support expansion (just like the CAD designs from early on in the planning stages of this thread!). I also hacked away the housing of my other MH light fixture (250W) which I had on my old tank (now vacant of corals since they have all migrated to the new tank already) and installed that to fill out the lighting on the tank with a total of 650W MH over the full 5' length of the tank. Really did a good job filling in the shadows!

Woke up this morning and tested Ca, dKH, and Mg. All still close/within the desired ranges but because they are on the lower end / questionably with in the ranges, I decided to do a "daily dose" of Bionic. I will test again this evening and see where we're at. If we are still within good ranges I am going to religiously stay with my daily Bionic doses until I run out. At which point I will switch to RedSea's 3 part method.

As for NOPOX, you all might have noticed my schedule shows I stopped NOPOX autodosing. The last few times i tried implementing it, things just didn't look so good after a few days (even of super low doses like 0.1 mL/gallon/day) My nitrates are slowly decreasing which is good. I haven't given up on NOPOX but for the time being I'm keeping off of it until 1. it is needed or 2. everything else gets stabilized.... I plan to have quite a few fish with frequent auto feeding for a school of a dozen or so anthias eventually and so i suspect having the NOPOX to help keep nitrates at bay will help at that time. But as a good reef keeper knows, corals first :)

My snowflake is still doing very well. Eating like a champ. Hangs out with my coral banded shrimp and brittle start pretty regularly. Clearly they aren't food to her. The only last thing i need to move over are 3 small clams (2 deresa and 1 maxima) which are still finishing their observation/QT time in the old tank. Hopefully she doesn't start getting a taste for clam!

I'll keep you all posted. If you actually read all of this post, and have some constructive criticism or advice to share, I welcome it! I think once I get these parameters stabilized and daily doses of Bionic to suit, I'm going to run another Triton test and see what else is going on in the minutiae.

Screen Shot 2017-11-23 at 9.51.01 AM.png
 
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MarsRover

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Screen Shot 2017-11-26 at 11.00.17 AM.png
man, things are still on the decline. I have my parameters stable....need to figure out if this is just the downward coasting due to the previously, poor-conditions, or if something else is wrong. I think i'm going to drop off a triton on monday....

I think i need to bump my pH...its looking a little...too...low...

added 1tsp of Kent superbuffer-dKH to bump up the pH and alk
 
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justingraham

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I wouldn’t worry about ph

Ur tank is still new

Triton test is never a bad idea
 
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Wahoo!!! Finally some good signs. Coral decline has stopped. I've done a couple water changes (seems to always work doesn't it?!?) on the order of 30-35 gallons (dec 30th and 9th). Coralline algae is finallyyyy starting to sprout up on rocks and on the glass. Also discovered the other morning that my tank is TEAMING with copepods of all sizes! Impossible to get a picture of them on the glass....will keep trying.

Micro/macro fauna are popping up everywhere (deep sandbed is awesome. Never going anything but deep sandbed ever again) teaming with life, feather dusters popping up everywhere, spaghetti worms, etc....

I LOVE this part....life explosion
 

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Man ur good doing waterchanges in the future and what not


Glad ur tank is turning around for ya
 
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MarsRover

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UGH!

So I have been driving myself crazy... I have been running enough cuprisorb (and carbon) for nearly double my system size and i have still be having symptoms of heavy metals in the water. I think I may have found the source....

I have an Ice Cap Gyre: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/3k-gyre-generation-powerhead-icecap.html

and I gotta say, I'm surprised....

The two magnets located in the back of the gyre, on the tank side, are un-incapsulated.... so basically there have been two large blocks of ferrous magnets sitting in my saltwater tank........ i don't understand.....

Anyone else wanna bet this is the source of my heavy metals in my tank? Curious if anyone else uses this product and has had a similar experience.....?

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