3/4" PVC solenoid valve???

[afboundguy]

I am looking to split a return line and have it meet back up before going into the tank and I am looking to use 3/4" solenoids and my controller to control them. This product appears to be all PVC (https://a.co/d/asnHEAH) but curious if anyone else has ever used a PVC solenoid valve and if so could you let me know which one? TIA!

 

[Subsea]

I have used plenty of solenoid valves. This is a good option in salt water for a normally closed valve. What voltage does your control system use?

 

[Joe31415]

If it doesn't have to be an actual solenoid I've used this motorized ball valve and it's been very reliable. I don't know if they make a PVC version, but you can buy copper to PVC connections. For what it's worth, the main reason I chose this one is because it doesn't use much power, and therefore less risk of overheating, when it's energized for long periods of time and Also, it automatically closes when power is removed, so no risk of any damage due to getting stuck open if there's a power outage.
Amazon product ASIN B00WDQCQRE

 

[Joe31415]

Funny thing, I just now clicked on your link and saw that not only was it also a motorized ball valve, but I have another one, in 1/2" stainless steel that's the same brand. It's been reliable for what I use it for, which is just to choose the air source for the skimmer (through the CO2 scrubber or not), based on pH. So...it opens and closes when it's supposed to..as far as I know, I don't pay a whole lot of attention to it and probably wouldn't even notice if it stopped working. I'd have no issue buying another one.
Amazon product ASIN B06WWPZWGZ

 

[SlowAndStupid]

Yes, I have 2 of the motorized ball valves in my system (3/4 in UPVC Motorized Ball Valve... http://bit.ly/49WDyAE ) and use this power supply (SmoTecQ 12V 2A Power Supply AC... https://bit.ly/3ZR4tJi )

I have them plugged in to my hydros outlets. One runs my ato and one drains excess water from my sump to a floor drain during water changes. I am pleased with it so far.

 

[afboundguy]

I have used plenty of solenoid valves. This is a good option in salt water for a normally closed valve. What voltage does your control system use?

I use an old school RKE that has 0-10v but the one I shared the link seems like it's just power/no power and I have plenty of outlets that the outlets can control.

If it doesn't have to be an actual solenoid I've used this motorized ball valve and it's been very reliable. I don't know if they make a PVC version, but you can buy copper to PVC connections. For what it's worth, the main reason I chose this one is because it doesn't use much power, and therefore less risk of overheating, when it's energized for long periods of time and Also, it automatically closes when power is removed, so no risk of any damage due to getting stuck open if there's a power outage.
Amazon product ASIN B00WDQCQRE

Have you ever had a problem with them being not PVC with saltwater? Also the link didn't work in your post.

Funny thing, I just now clicked on your link and saw that not only was it also a motorized ball valve, but I have another one, in 1/2" stainless steel that's the same brand. It's been reliable for what I use it for, which is just to choose the air source for the skimmer (through the CO2 scrubber or not), based on pH. So...it opens and closes when it's supposed to..as far as I know, I don't pay a whole lot of attention to it and probably wouldn't even notice if it stopped working. I'd have no issue buying another one.
Amazon product ASIN B06WWPZWGZ

I would prefer to shy away from metal since it will be a main return line but good to know that brand has worked for you thanks!

 

[afboundguy]

Yes, I have 2 of the motorized ball valves in my system (3/4 in UPVC Motorized Ball Valve... http://bit.ly/49WDyAE ) and use this power supply (SmoTecQ 12V 2A Power Supply AC... https://bit.ly/3ZR4tJi )

I have them plugged in to my hydros outlets. One runs my ato and one drains excess water from my sump to a floor drain during water changes. I am pleased with it so far.

Awesome thanks! I would plan to get a closed when power is applied and an open when power is applied and have the appropriate outlet controlled based on the temp of the display fuge.

How long have you been using them for? Besides the plan I have in mind I could see them being used for a variety of different applications similar to what you're using them for but also something like an auto water change setup if I would ever get that fancy in the future!

 

[Joe31415]

Have you ever had a problem with them being not PVC with saltwater? Also the link didn't work in your post.

Saltwater doesn't (directly) touch mine. The copper one only has city water going through it on the way to my RODI filter, the stainless one is just air. It's in the cabinet with the sump and it's getting plenty of salt air, but that's it.

I would prefer to shy away from metal since it will be a main return line but good to know that brand has worked for you thanks!

The motorized parts are probably identical, at least within the brand (and probably across multiple brands that use the same drive mechanism), for different sizes and materials, so I'd vouch for that part, but I can't speak to the actual valve part of the PVC version. I'd imagine it's just fine.
Here's the two I linked above 1 2

 

[SlowAndStupid]

I've only been using mine for about a month so far.

 

[afboundguy]

Saltwater doesn't (directly) touch mine. The copper one only has city water going through it on the way to my RODI filter, the stainless one is just air. It's in the cabinet with the sump and it's getting plenty of salt air, but that's it.


The motorized parts are probably identical, at least within the brand (and probably across multiple brands that use the same drive mechanism), for different sizes and materials, so I'd vouch for that part, but I can't speak to the actual valve part of the PVC version. I'd imagine it's just fine.
Here's the two I linked above 1 2

Thanks!

I've only been using mine for about a month so far.

Thanks!

 

[Joe31415]

Update on the valve I linked to upthread. I bought that in January of 2021. It gets cycled a handful of times each week and it finally broke last week. I was very lucky that I just happened to be next to it and noticed that it made an odd sound when it opened and looking closer, it only opened halfway and I couldn't get it to move the rest of the way in either direction. Meaning, had I not heard that, it wouldn't have shut off when the timer cut it's power.

I took the drive mechanism apart and didn't notice anything wrong with it. All the gears looked fine, no foreign objects, everything still lubricated, nothing seemed to be binding, but the motor still wouldn't drive it. At some point, I noticed a wire with a potentially bad solder joint. I resoldered it and it's been fine since.

I'm sure that's all it was, but I wish I knew for sure.

Having said all that, one of the nice things about this type of valve is that the motor pops right off. It drives the actual valve, but otherwise has nothing to do with the water. There's no seals or anything to be worried about. Plus, it means you can buy a new valve and swap the motor over and not have to do any plumbing work.