adhd_nerd
Active Member
Hello All,
This is not new build thread, I've never had one on Reef2Reef for any of my tanks. Thus it is time (so I can get a badge and enter contests). This is for my main display tank; a 300G thru wall build. For reference as to how long this tank has been up, it is a Tenecor tank I bought new about a year before they shut down. I'd say 7-8 years with many ups and down. Unfortunately, my build thread on the other local forum is gone since it is not around anymore. So don't have old picts etc. and must start anew.
When I put this tank in my basement was unfinished and now my basement is completely finished with a fish room. I essentially finished my basement around this tank. In total, I have about 700G of salt water in my home.
To give you an idea...
A view from my office (doors off on stand).
A view from the other side in the TV room.
And the supporting fish room
So let's start with the basics.
Tank Size: 300G
Tank Mnf: Tenecor Acrylic dual overflow/reef ready
Tank Dimension: 72"L x 30"D x 36"T (.75" thick acrylic)
What I have I learned to love and hate about the basics of the tank.
- I have peace of mind that the tank will not burst at the seems as it ages. At least I can clearly see the integrity of the acrylic seams if they ever degrade. I would definitely go acrylic again for large tanks.
- I hate that acrylic scratches easily. I wish I would have known about melamine sponges early on...I think it would have saved me a lot of scratch removal work. Melamine sponge alongside Tunze algae scraper is what I use now.
- I like the fact that I can remove scratches. I have done it many times with water in and don't think any life stock suffers from it. It is work, but it is possible
- I like and hate that it is 36"tall. I like that I can stand and not have to bend down to look at the tank (6' tall). I hate that it is very hard to work on. If I had it to do over, I would go 30" tall and make stand taller and 36" deep.
- I like dual overflows. Since I put gate valves on the overflow plumbing to tune; dual overflow gives me some protection. Early on I spent countless hours trying different overflows to reduce noise none seem to work well. I know there are many that say never put gate valves on overflow. I am not one of those. I put a gate on all my overflows...makes tuning so much easier if you want to run return at full throttle. It is worth noting that if your return rate is low, I can understand closing the gate valve almost all the way down is risky. Get a larger return pump and use gate valve to fine tune, not for large adjustments. Also, keep in my the overflow pipe size.
- I like the thru the wall designs. You may want one side to back up to a work area, but accessibility from both sides is the main idea. So thru wall and peninsula is the way to go to make it easier to work on. If you have to back up against a wall, make sure the stand is accessible from the other three sides. I did this for my 100Gallon in my living room and it makes working underneath so much easier.
- One thing about acrylic; make sure you always get euro-bracing. Rimless acrylic is a bad idea. I've learned after building several sumps...thinking it's ok this is just a short section of acrylic does not need euro-brace. No matter how short it will warp overtime under constant pressure. A little euro-bracing goes a long way.
to be continued...I will discuss my recent sump redesign for this display. Sneak peak...designed in 360.
Questions comments welcomed.
This is not new build thread, I've never had one on Reef2Reef for any of my tanks. Thus it is time (so I can get a badge and enter contests). This is for my main display tank; a 300G thru wall build. For reference as to how long this tank has been up, it is a Tenecor tank I bought new about a year before they shut down. I'd say 7-8 years with many ups and down. Unfortunately, my build thread on the other local forum is gone since it is not around anymore. So don't have old picts etc. and must start anew.
When I put this tank in my basement was unfinished and now my basement is completely finished with a fish room. I essentially finished my basement around this tank. In total, I have about 700G of salt water in my home.
To give you an idea...
A view from my office (doors off on stand).
A view from the other side in the TV room.
And the supporting fish room
So let's start with the basics.
Tank Size: 300G
Tank Mnf: Tenecor Acrylic dual overflow/reef ready
Tank Dimension: 72"L x 30"D x 36"T (.75" thick acrylic)
What I have I learned to love and hate about the basics of the tank.
- I have peace of mind that the tank will not burst at the seems as it ages. At least I can clearly see the integrity of the acrylic seams if they ever degrade. I would definitely go acrylic again for large tanks.
- I hate that acrylic scratches easily. I wish I would have known about melamine sponges early on...I think it would have saved me a lot of scratch removal work. Melamine sponge alongside Tunze algae scraper is what I use now.
- I like the fact that I can remove scratches. I have done it many times with water in and don't think any life stock suffers from it. It is work, but it is possible
- I like and hate that it is 36"tall. I like that I can stand and not have to bend down to look at the tank (6' tall). I hate that it is very hard to work on. If I had it to do over, I would go 30" tall and make stand taller and 36" deep.
- I like dual overflows. Since I put gate valves on the overflow plumbing to tune; dual overflow gives me some protection. Early on I spent countless hours trying different overflows to reduce noise none seem to work well. I know there are many that say never put gate valves on overflow. I am not one of those. I put a gate on all my overflows...makes tuning so much easier if you want to run return at full throttle. It is worth noting that if your return rate is low, I can understand closing the gate valve almost all the way down is risky. Get a larger return pump and use gate valve to fine tune, not for large adjustments. Also, keep in my the overflow pipe size.
- I like the thru the wall designs. You may want one side to back up to a work area, but accessibility from both sides is the main idea. So thru wall and peninsula is the way to go to make it easier to work on. If you have to back up against a wall, make sure the stand is accessible from the other three sides. I did this for my 100Gallon in my living room and it makes working underneath so much easier.
- One thing about acrylic; make sure you always get euro-bracing. Rimless acrylic is a bad idea. I've learned after building several sumps...thinking it's ok this is just a short section of acrylic does not need euro-brace. No matter how short it will warp overtime under constant pressure. A little euro-bracing goes a long way.
to be continued...I will discuss my recent sump redesign for this display. Sneak peak...designed in 360.
Questions comments welcomed.
