50w single LED chip power supply, will this work?

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I am using DIY 50w LED pendants. I want to add more. I have leftover mean well LPC-35-700s from a build I broke down. Will this be enough to power 1 50w chip? If not can I use 2 drivers on 1 chip?

Thanks
 

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The LPC 35-700 is rated for 33watts. You would be under driving it but should be fine. I highly doubt you can run two drivers in tandem on one chip or string
 
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Thanks,

1 driver works. while lit, when i touch the wires from a second driver to the LED,the brightness increases dramatically. But I think it is overdriving the LED and shorten it's life
 

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Thanks,

1 driver works. while lit, when i touch the wires from a second driver to the LED,the brightness increases dramatically. But I think it is overdriving the LED and shorten it's life
Constant current drivers aren't made to do that. It will work that way for a while, but not reliably.

What is the forward voltage of the LED you are lighting?
 
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Constant current drivers aren't made to do that. It will work that way for a while, but not reliably.

What is the forward voltage of the LED you are lighting?


  • [*]LED chips: EPISTAR EDI-EA1143 45*45mil
    • Acrobat_reader_icon.jpg
      Download Manufacturer Data Sheet
    [*]Color Temperature/Wavelength: 20 chips 20000K + 30 chips 450-453nm Royal Blue
    [*]PAR reading(Instrument: Apogee MQ-200):
    • 964 on 1.7A input current
    • 1603 on 3.5A input current
    [*]DC Forward Voltage (VF): 31.5-36V DC
    [*]DC Forward Current (IF): 3500mA max
    [*]Rated Power: 126W max
 

jedimasterben

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Ok, you're fine, then. The LPC you have does 48v maximum and a constant 700mA, so you've got plenty of headroom.
 
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Thank you. So using 1 driver is enough to adequately power the chip?

Sorry for the questions but I don't quite understand electricity :squigglemouth:
 
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jedimasterben

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Thank you. So using 1 driver is enough to adequately power the chip?

Sorry for the questions but I don't quite understand electricity :squigglemouth:
Depends on what you mean by adequately. You can supply any amount of current to it (under 3.5A) and it will still strike. Lower than the 700mA you're providing now and it will emit less light, more current meaning more light. As long as you're getting the PAR that you want, then you're fine.
 
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Depends on what you mean by adequately. You can supply any amount of current to it (under 3.5A) and it will still strike. Lower than the 700mA you're providing now and it will emit less light, more current meaning more light. As long as you're getting the PAR that you want, then you're fine.

I think of discussions about metal halide bulbs. People would ask about running a 400w metal halide bulb on a 250w ballast. The responses were that the bulb would not perform as designed. I know LEDs are not halide bulbs, but thought to ask/imply if the lower power supply would produce the same temp/color output
 

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I think of discussions about metal halide bulbs. People would ask about running a 400w metal halide bulb on a 250w ballast. The responses were that the bulb would not perform as designed. I know LEDs are not halide bulbs, but thought to ask/imply if the lower power supply would produce the same temp/color output
Ahh, I see. LEDs, unlike halide and fluorescent bulbs, aren't watt-driven, they are current driven, and their spectral output doesn't change unless they are run under very extreme circumstances (sub-freezing temperatures, pushing too much voltage through them via a constant voltage power supply, etc).

There are a few LED guides out there, but a lot of the information in them is old and some of them don't really cover some of the basics like that. I've gotten about 75% of the one I'm working on finished, hopefully I'll complete it soon and get it posted up, I'll write in to include a little about them such as how they dim, what happens when they dim, etc.
 

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