550G Display + Fish Room Frag Tanks = 900G of Fun
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JumboShrimp
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Serious question, my FOWLR hums along at more than 160 ppm Nitrates... can the HR checker display anything near that?
OP
OP
I am mildly freaked out at my 25-50ppm Nitrates (with 0.05 phosphate) and I can’t seem to bring it down. No idea on 160ppm! The web site may have some good info on that - I can only comment on how dang simple it is to perform the test
JumboShrimp
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(By the way— my new Sulphur Biodenitrator has been holding steady at 160+ ppm Nitrates for about 5 weeks. I just tested the effluent now: A drop to 40 ppm Nitrates! I have a thread on the Biodenitrator’s progress, if you are interested. Best wishes.)
OP
OP
Just picked up some Neptune Sky lights. I was coming from 8 Kessil A360X lights plus supplemental T5 bulbs. Initial thoughts:
1. the reduction of power cables from individual smaller lights felt good
2. Broad coverage is just like T5s - and every part of the 120x36x29” tank has coverage. 24x36” spread is accurate from Neptune.
3. Shimmer is negligible. It’s not faint - it’s pretty much non-existent, and what I do see - I wish I could I unsee - it’s not attractive. But it’s faint so it’s okay.
4. I will leave three Kessil A360X lights as supplemental lighting in the middle three sections. Half of that decision is for more light/spectrum, and half is for more shimmer. I was spoiled before!
5. The Neptune app for the Sky is pretty good, but not amazing.
Overall I think it’s the right type of technology for reef keepingform factor for even spread. That’s why T5s worked so well, and this concept is no different.
So far so good!
1. the reduction of power cables from individual smaller lights felt good
2. Broad coverage is just like T5s - and every part of the 120x36x29” tank has coverage. 24x36” spread is accurate from Neptune.
3. Shimmer is negligible. It’s not faint - it’s pretty much non-existent, and what I do see - I wish I could I unsee - it’s not attractive. But it’s faint so it’s okay.
4. I will leave three Kessil A360X lights as supplemental lighting in the middle three sections. Half of that decision is for more light/spectrum, and half is for more shimmer. I was spoiled before!
5. The Neptune app for the Sky is pretty good, but not amazing.
Overall I think it’s the right type of technology for reef keepingform factor for even spread. That’s why T5s worked so well, and this concept is no different.
So far so good!
OP
OP
Also found a really cheap and easy way to do mounts onto 80/20. The $11Radion XR30 mount adapter fits the Sky and it’s sits perfectly on top of the 80/20. Screws included in the Sky fit exactly. Add some zip ties for redundancy and good to go!
www.bulkreefsupply.com
RMS XR30 G5 Adapter Kit
If you have a pre-Gen 5 RMS Tank Mount System, the G5 RMS XR30 Adapter provides the necessary hardware to easily update your RMS Tank Mount for use with your new Radion XR30 G5 LED light. Installation of the hardware only takes a few minutes and you'll be up and running with your new lights in...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
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I just finished reading all 21 pages. Great build thread. Chemiclean worked for me also. I was pleasantly surprised at just how well it worked. I know you’ve done ICP testing but have you tried the bacteria testing to see what bacteria is present in your system and in what ratios? I had assumed that since cyano is a bacteria that it was simply out competing some other kind of bacteria and if that bacteria had a chance to take hold it would be able to keep the cyano at bay. I also thought that the UV would have helped with the cyano but I guess that isn’t the case.
OP
OP
You know, I never thought about bacteria testing. Which company does that? I have typically used the Triton ICP tests because I like the interface and dosing recommendations, but I also haven't compared with others in the last two years to see if alternatives have improved.
Cyano seems to me like the most misunderstood/misdiagnosed nuisance in the hobby. People get Cyano with high nutrients, with low nutrients, with imbalanced nutrients -- those by themselves can't be the cause. To me it seems like those scenarios allow other problems to accelerate and allow for Cyano, but people always come back to nutrients.
Like you, I think the Cyano was outcompeting good bacteria in the tank. I nuked it with Chemiclean and have been using a combination of Microbacter7 and Stability -- and I haven't had any issues since. The moment you do a little carbon dosing, Cyano starts to rear its head a little, but that's a whole other thread!!
TexAgReefer
Well-Known Member
You know, I never thought about bacteria testing. Which company does that? I have typically used the Triton ICP tests because I like the interface and dosing recommendations, but I also haven't compared with others in the last two years to see if alternatives have improved.
Cyano seems to me like the most misunderstood/misdiagnosed nuisance in the hobby. People get Cyano with high nutrients, with low nutrients, with imbalanced nutrients -- those by themselves can't be the cause. To me it seems like those scenarios allow other problems to accelerate and allow for Cyano, but people always come back to nutrients.
Like you, I think the Cyano was outcompeting good bacteria in the tank. I nuked it with Chemiclean and have been using a combination of Microbacter7 and Stability -- and I haven't had any issues since. The moment you do a little carbon dosing, Cyano starts to rear its head a little, but that's a whole other thread!!
They'll test and report on your aquarium biodiversity. They also do dna test for parasites. It's pretty awesome and the report and commentary they provide is incredibly informative.
As they say, every new beginning is some other beginning’s end. Tropic Marin Pro has been great for me too.
OP
OP
So true! Although, I did buy two 200G boxes of Reef Crystals to do a massive series of water changes. After getting the Hanna Nitrate (high range) tester I realized that my nitrates were above 60. No big issues with the tank, but I was able to bring things down below 20 now.
In the category of "random reef equipment" I bought 6 squeeze bottles for next to nothing on Amazon and I plan to use one to hold RODI water for rinsing out and filling test vials after I'm done with them -- or just hosing stuff down in general with RODI. The 24oz version is the perfect ratio of volume to weight for me. Highly recommended!!
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JumboShrimp
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(...or if you want to squeeze a little Ketchup and Mustard into your tank.) LOL!
OP
OP
(...or if you want to squeeze a little Ketchup and Mustard into your tank.) LOL!
Would you also like some nori on that hotdog? ;Playful
just checking in, sir - thank you for sharing. Any way to get some specifics and photos of your returns? I'm plumbing a large tank and will be running sea swirls and want to figure out a nice clean siphon break.
OP
OP
You're in the neighborhood anyway -- feel free to stop by!
For the returns, I use two separate lines (each through a 120W UV so I can zap protozoa nasties but still have 1200G/H turnover) -- and each line has a Tee at the end. Adding a reverse check valve on each side gives me the peace of mind I need, plus a small holes at the waterline of the returns as a backup. In addition, I have my pumps on a UPS just in case there are brown outs or temporary black outs. I get 15-20min of power, and our outages are always shorter than that.
OP
OP
After 1.5 years of having the tank up and running, I’m doing something a wish I had done at the start - mortar my rocks.
With a 36” of horizontal space to play with, I was able to make a pretty good rock wall with space behind for flow. but, it was just a solid wall of rock, which limits flow and total available surface area for corals.
I’ve been taking rocks out of the water and using e-Marco mortar (great stuff!) - and I just take a spray bottle of tank water to keep the rocks wet every 15min while the initial 2 hour setting takes place. Full cure in the water after 24 hours.
I’m building rock towers 3 levels high, with some parts sticking out left/right to help make arches. The depth of field I’m getting is so much better, and there is so much more surface area to mount corals.
Still a work in progress but you can see where I’m going with it. High vertical rocks spaced apart to allow swimming channels, and I’ll put more corals and rock arches (with more corals) on top.
With a 36” of horizontal space to play with, I was able to make a pretty good rock wall with space behind for flow. but, it was just a solid wall of rock, which limits flow and total available surface area for corals.
I’ve been taking rocks out of the water and using e-Marco mortar (great stuff!) - and I just take a spray bottle of tank water to keep the rocks wet every 15min while the initial 2 hour setting takes place. Full cure in the water after 24 hours.
I’m building rock towers 3 levels high, with some parts sticking out left/right to help make arches. The depth of field I’m getting is so much better, and there is so much more surface area to mount corals.
Still a work in progress but you can see where I’m going with it. High vertical rocks spaced apart to allow swimming channels, and I’ll put more corals and rock arches (with more corals) on top.
OP
OP
I can't believe I'm saying this, but I'm switching back to Neptune Sky lights from Radion G5 Pro XR30 lights. Since the mounts are the same, I was able to audition the G5 XR30 and found that on balance, I preferred the Sky lights after a month. Not everyone will agree (especially the Radion purists) - and it's possible that I didn't give the G5s enough time, but the reasons I have for going back are more about the form factor than the results in coral growth in a short amount of time. EcoTech could fix many of these things in the G6 version and sell one light to rule them all.
Pros:
* Larger light = better spread in terms of less shadowing -- I value this very highly
* Diffuser built in. That saves cash on a system that has 7 Skys/XR30s
* Higher PAR with a diffuser on (Sky is built-in, XR30 takes a hit on light with the optional diffuser)
* Software is much better. Yes Mobius sucks, but once you get it set, you shouldn't have to futz with it all that often -- I prioritized this advantage last since it's not that big of a deal for me
Cons:
* I've seen that the XR30 has a better spectrum spread at the low end, which could affect growth, but I've been very happy with the growth from the Sky. Without a ton of scientific testing, I'm not sure if the difference is negligible or a meaningful amount.
* There is negligible shimmer from the Sky - it's essentially non-existent and that's okay for my use since I have A360X lights as filler lights.
It's a close race for sure, but I value the larger spread and diffuse light from the Sky lights vs. the G5 XR30s
Pros:
* Larger light = better spread in terms of less shadowing -- I value this very highly
* Diffuser built in. That saves cash on a system that has 7 Skys/XR30s
* Higher PAR with a diffuser on (Sky is built-in, XR30 takes a hit on light with the optional diffuser)
* Software is much better. Yes Mobius sucks, but once you get it set, you shouldn't have to futz with it all that often -- I prioritized this advantage last since it's not that big of a deal for me
Cons:
* I've seen that the XR30 has a better spectrum spread at the low end, which could affect growth, but I've been very happy with the growth from the Sky. Without a ton of scientific testing, I'm not sure if the difference is negligible or a meaningful amount.
* There is negligible shimmer from the Sky - it's essentially non-existent and that's okay for my use since I have A360X lights as filler lights.
It's a close race for sure, but I value the larger spread and diffuse light from the Sky lights vs. the G5 XR30s
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OP
OP
I'm also REALLY jazzed about my newest $20 Amazon.com purchase -- a big ole funnel normally used for oil changes on cars up on lifts. It's huge -- 15" around, but it fits an entire 50lb bag of salt from IO/RC all at once, and the funnel end passes salt through at a slow/medium pace to maximize mixing efficiency. There is even a multi-section divider at the bottom that keeps salt from clumping in the middle and stopping the flow.
Now I can pour in 50lb of salt, go do testing etc. for a few minutes and come back -- the salt is gone and I can add another bag if I choose. No more measuring cups or sore arms from slow pours!
Big Funnel for Pouring Salt
Now I can pour in 50lb of salt, go do testing etc. for a few minutes and come back -- the salt is gone and I can add another bag if I choose. No more measuring cups or sore arms from slow pours!
Big Funnel for Pouring Salt
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