600w MH?
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Breadman03
Valuable Member
I don't remember the thread name, but there was a recent post by someone with a 600 or 1000 watt setup that was testing PAR, I think, at a few different settings. I'll search a bit in case I find it more easily.
@jda, do you happen to recall the thread or have info?
@jda, do you happen to recall the thread or have info?
Hurricane Aquatics
Valuable Member
If you're running 400w metal halide, you do not need more PAR. I suggest you read up on how to position the lighting and how to place corals. You put your first SPS frag in your tank about 3 weeks ago. You do not need more PAR.
You probably need better understanding of water chemistry and flow, but if you have enough fixtures to cover the tank, lighting isn't your issue.
Breadman03
Valuable Member
I found the thread, but agree the above is something to consider. Very few folks have tanks big enough to run 400 watt halides, let alone need 600.
www.reef2reef.com
Ushio 7k 600 Watt Metal Halide Test
I posted this in another thread and thought I would post it here as it will be an ongoing test. Hamilton 20"x20" reflector. Quantum electronic ballast. Ushio 7K 600 Watt MH conversion bulb. It will be run on my 36x24x12 frag system. Replacing my 150 watt 14K de Phoenix system. Yes its overkill...
www.reef2reef.com
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GarrettT
Well-Known Member
Mid tank I'm only getting 275-300 par. 11'' from the water surface. My tang won't eat nori from a clip so I have to attach a nori sheet to a rock every morning, so I'd prefer not to go much lower. My DD Jumpguard 1/4'' net screen reduces par by 50 : (
Switch from black to clear mesh .
There is a thread on the difference in par.
www.reef2reef.com
There is a thread on the difference in par.
Screen Top PAR Reduction
I did a test today to see what the difference in PAR was for my tank from screen top on to screen top off. I used a Seneye and the results are shown in the screenshots. The Seneye was kept in the same position on the sand about center tank. For the screen top on I passed the Seneye cord through...
www.reef2reef.com
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GarrettT
Well-Known Member
Parameters are stable (Alk & Cal). They don't move much at all. This is actually my 4th reef tank. I've just been out of it for a while. The frags are doing well and encrusting, but I do wonder if having par greater 300 would help produce faster growth and better color. I've heard people say SPS really excels when you have them under 600 par (non-LEDs)
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GarrettT
Well-Known Member
I actually thought about that. I'll definitely see about making the switch. Thanks!Switch from black to clear mesh .
There is a thread on the difference in par.
Screen Top PAR Reduction
I did a test today to see what the difference in PAR was for my tank from screen top on to screen top off. I used a Seneye and the results are shown in the screenshots. The Seneye was kept in the same position on the sand about center tank. For the screen top on I passed the Seneye cord through...
There are no reef type bulbs in 600w that I know of. You can get some daylight ones in the 5500k or 6500k range, or so. These are horticulture bulbs. Horticulture stuff is reliable and good - most of these manufacturers make lights that grow hippie lettuce with this and these people have millions on the line so they want good stuff.
The next step up is 1000w Halides. Hamilton has these with reef type of bulbs in 10k, 14k and 20k, I think.
If you need more light, get a more penetrating reflector and put on a second 400w MH setup, or a pair of 250w setups. Lowering the light will help a lot if you just put the nori on a clip and let the fish get with the program over a week, or so. What you have is probably fine for now and you can add more later if you need it.
The next step up is 1000w Halides. Hamilton has these with reef type of bulbs in 10k, 14k and 20k, I think.
If you need more light, get a more penetrating reflector and put on a second 400w MH setup, or a pair of 250w setups. Lowering the light will help a lot if you just put the nori on a clip and let the fish get with the program over a week, or so. What you have is probably fine for now and you can add more later if you need it.
Yea that was my thread. I stopped using them because growth was more than I needed in a 12" deep frag system.I found the thread, but agree the above is something to consider. Very few folks have tanks big enough to run 400 watt halides, let alone need 600.
Ushio 7k 600 Watt Metal Halide Test
I posted this in another thread and thought I would post it here as it will be an ongoing test. Hamilton 20"x20" reflector. Quantum electronic ballast. Ushio 7K 600 Watt MH conversion bulb. It will be run on my 36x24x12 frag system. Replacing my 150 watt 14K de Phoenix system. Yes its overkill...
Ushio also makes a 7K 400 watt bulb. I would get one and try it. Lower K equals higher par.
I used the 600 because I already had the bulbs and ballast.
The ballast was selectable so I could run 300, 450, or 600.
You will need some supplemental blue to get the color you want.
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GarrettT
Well-Known Member
54''x33''x24''. The light hangs about 11'' from the water surface.
Right now I'm using 14k Hamiltons, so I'm sure I could gain more par with the 10K. Like you, I have the OR3's on the sides. I ordered the clear screen mesh, so I'll be interested to see what my par meter says.
My tanks is 48x30x24 and I run 2x250 watt radium bulbs over driven on sunlight supply ballasts. I have the Lumen max elite reflectors. I also have OR3 LED bars too. My PAR is close to 500 at the sand bed right under the bulbs. I would recommend new reflectors.
Lumen bright large can handle up to a 1000 watt. Problem is finding them in stock.
They are a much better reflector, imo.
I run the 20x20 cozumel on my frag system and have been looking for 3 large lumen brights for a while now.
They are a much better reflector, imo.
I run the 20x20 cozumel on my frag system and have been looking for 3 large lumen brights for a while now.
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GarrettT
Well-Known Member
Definitely not with a 400w ballast. You may be able to with a 1000w light and LEDs as a supplement. I have 2x 400w MHs & 3x orphek OR3 bars and still only getting 220 at bottom and 300 mid.
A. grandis
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Why are you so worried about PAR? How funny when people try to bring that "LED thing" to the halide world. Trust me... If you have a 400W 14K Hamilton over a 30" deep tank, that should be enough. You do not need a 600W or a 1000W. Even if you are using an electronic ballast for those 400W Halide bulbs, because that's what Hamilton suggests anyways, right? What you need to do is to make sure that the reflectors you are using are offering proper distribution of those photons for your system. You don't have to worry about PAR. And yes, please get a transparent screen over the tank. That makes a difference. Enjoy your halides!!
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