6255, control box shorted after tank move

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Breadman03

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Hey @rvitko, I just swapped my pump (6255) to a new tank and the control box melted a bit around the DC supply plug. I'm assuming a drop of water or something got in there as it's been running just fine for several years and it happened the night I moved everything around. I suspect that I can just buy a controller (7090.50) and power supply (6300.240) per your parts catalog, but the power supply is out of stock. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!


 

rvitko

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Hi, we are shipping your order today, the Tunze website lists stock in Germany, in some cases we have a few items here, they are out of. You ordered 7090.000, this is the same controller, but has a cable attached to retrofit an old pump without controller, you will just unplug the cable and plug the pump in directly inside. I would carefully check the pump cable at the motor for any cracks or defects which could have wicked water back into the controller. If you find any motor cable defects, let me know.
 
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Breadman03

Breadman03

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Thank you, sir. Next up I’ll have to get stronger magnets for my 6150’s so I can turn them up with 3/4” glass. First comes recovering from setting up a 270.
 

rvitko

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My home tank is a 265, I feel your pain, I had a 215 and that was a two man lift, the 265 was insane, 4 men with no limitations, we tried 3 times, the bad back guy was a no go, the scrawny guy was a no go, finally got 3 other guys with some strength to get the darn thing in place.
 
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Breadman03

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My then 16 year old son and I moved mine by ourselves. That went pretty smoothly, but man did I hit a bunch of unexpected headaches with plumbing and electrical.
 

rvitko

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Same, I built my stand and planned on the sump going in stand, it fit, but was too tight to be practical so I got permission from my wife to put it in the pantry behind the tank and the whole process was an ordeal.
 
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Breadman03

Breadman03

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From what I can tell, the motor cable was dry. The heat was all at the power cable and this just fell within the damaged radius. Any idea where I can get a new connector? Thanks again! Lol, nevermind, I’ll just pirate it from the new unused cable. Time for coffee.
789EA614-DE5F-4A6A-BBAA-30B2F672592C.jpeg


I noticed some slight power differences here. I assume that’s no issue since you stated it was compatible.
image.jpg
 

rvitko

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I have these plugs and pins, you need to solder the wires to the individual pins, I can do this and wouldn't charge except shipping if you need me to.
 
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Breadman03

Breadman03

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I have these plugs and pins, you need to solder the wires to the individual pins, I can do this and wouldn't charge except shipping if you need me to.
It turns out the motor cable must be leaking. My new controller is wet toast. What’s my best course of action from here?

Sorry ‘bout the hairy leg.
0175123E-D885-449D-8600-067B0E77CE52.jpeg
 

rvitko

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Can you get me the date of manufacture of the motor? This will be a 4 digit number that is melted into the plastic on one of the long side walls of the hexagonal body the impeller sits in. It is done with a hot iron and actually pressed in. Check the cable closely where it meets the motor, this is generally where the break will be.
 

rvitko

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Did you find any cord break? Can I get your shipping info so I can send a replacement motor?
 
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Breadman03

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I found the break. Would it be possible for me to add an order for another controller into the same box? I’ll send my shipping info then order the controller however you suggest. Thank you, Roger.

image.jpg
 

rvitko

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The motor will come with a controller, did you need yet another?
 
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Breadman03

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As expected, my Tunzes have been running great since my new parts came in. Now I just have to calibrate the controller per the video here for best Apex control.
 

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