75 gallon reef tank having issues.

Shaedonj

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i recently started my 4 ft 75 gal as a reef tank about a year or so ago and i’ve had no issues with anything. currently in the tank are two clownfish, around 20 hermit crabs, 3 sand sifters, some frog spawn, and a bubble tip, along with some mushroom coral. i’ve had two kesill 360s on top for more than half of the tanks lifecycle but all of the sudden i am having issues with algae and certain levels of nitrate and nitrite, everything seems fine and i’ve dosed to bring it down but is this due to my lighting or something different? ps: sorry if they’re dumb questions i’m trying to familiarize myself more

IMG_9478.jpeg IMG_9476.jpeg image.jpg
 

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I'm going to say your issues might be related to the lack of live rock, and biological filtration. It's doubtful if it has anything to do with your lighting.
Also you shouldn't dose anything to bring those down, water changes would be better.
Whats the actual test results? What equipment do you have filter wise and how long ago did you change the media?
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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algae loves dissolved organics, phosphate, and low flow area's, mix these with light and you get algae.

I don't see any powerheads in your tank, so you tank can likely use more flow.

What were the nitrate and phosphate levels and what did you use to bring them down?

Are you planning to add more rock?
 
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Shaedonj

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Sorry if it was confusing when i said dosing i meant to go into detail about that but forgot i meant as like dosing for coral growth but i worded it strangely and filter wise i can’t remember the name but its a canister filter rated towards a 120 gallon tank with carbon filter media and i’ve actually not heard that before about live rock ive been wondering if more was necessary. and the tests came back as ph 8.0, ammonia nearly 0, nitrite, around 2 to 5, and nitrates are 40 to 80. i appreciate the help.
 
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Shaedonj

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algae loves dissolved organics, phosphate, and low flow area's, mix these with light and you get algae.

I don't see any powerheads in your tank, so you tank can likely use more flow.

What were the nitrate and phosphate levels and what did you use to bring them down?

Are you planning to add more rock?
i had actually asked someone about a few wavemaker or power head and they didn’t recommend one due to the filters output of water would you still recommend one? and the levels were around 2 to 5 for nitrite while nitrate was around 40 to 80 and if necessary then absolutely.
 

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Canister filters can be nitrate factories unless you are constantly replacing or cleaning them. More flow and live rock would be helpful. Probably more so than your existing filter.
 

twentyleagues

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Yes probably more flow wouldnt hurt especially with just a canister filter. Do you know the make and model of said filter? What about water changes how often and how much?
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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40-80 nitrate is high.

If your canister filter has a pad, then it should be changed every few days, otherwise food is trapped in the pad and decays until you remove it. This is the so-called "nitrate factory" on a reef tank, its the reason many people don't use canister filters, because its a headache to clean often.

There should be about 60-70 lbs of rock in the tank, and strong flow for good biological filtration.

It looks like your using an API test kit, if you want to get into corals more, then you will need good test kits for alkalinity, calcium, nitrate and phosphate. These are much more important to know and keep stable for good coral growth, compared to dosing for coral growth. Corals won't grow well without correct parameters.

IMO, more rocks and more flow and more frequent water changes will be a huge benefit to this tank.
 

twentyleagues

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i recently started my 4 ft 75 gal as a reef tank about a year or so ago and i’ve had no issues with anything. currently in the tank are two clownfish, around 20 hermit crabs, 3 sand sifters, some frog spawn, and a bubble tip, along with some mushroom coral. i’ve had two kesill 360s on top for more than half of the tanks lifecycle but all of the sudden i am having issues with algae and certain levels of nitrate and nitrite, everything seems fine and i’ve dosed to bring it down but is this due to my lighting or something different? ps: sorry if they’re dumb questions i’m trying to familiarize myself more

IMG_9478.jpeg IMG_9476.jpeg image.jpg
Are these recent pics? How long are the lights on everyday? That tank doesnt look a year old.
 
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Shaedonj

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Are these recent pics? How long are the lights on everyday? That tank doesnt look a year old.
i’ve had the tank running for a year or so due to the fact i got it on my birthday in june and set it up the day of and yes just took said pictures recently
 
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Shaedonj

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i’ve had the tank running for a year or so due to the fact i got it on my birthday in june and set it up the day of and yes just took said pictures recently
depends when i get home from work but usually 10 hours maybe less
 
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Shaedonj

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40-80 nitrate is high.

If your canister filter has a pad, then it should be changed every few days, otherwise food is trapped in the pad and decays until you remove it. This is the so-called "nitrate factory" on a reef tank, its the reason many people don't use canister filters, because its a headache to clean often.

There should be about 60-70 lbs of rock in the tank, and strong flow for good biological filtration.

It looks like your using an API test kit, if you want to get into corals more, then you will need good test kits for alkalinity, calcium, nitrate and phosphate. These are much more important to know and keep stable for good coral growth, compared to dosing for coral growth. Corals won't grow well without correct parameters.

IMO, more rocks and more flow and more frequent water changes will be a huge benefit to this tank.
i’ve been cleaning it quite a bit and then stopped for two weeks that might be the reason then. i had been changing the water every month as well. i’ve never heard of them trapping so much and causing such an issue and the live rock i will definitely be getting more of thank you all for the advice and help.
 
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Shaedonj

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Yes probably more flow wouldnt hurt especially with just a canister filter. Do you know the make and model of said filter? What about water changes how often and how much?
ok sweet do you have any suggestion for a make and model for the head? and i’ll have to check out when i get a chance and i’ll get back to you but the water changes i do once a month 5 gallons
 

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ok sweet do you have any suggestion for a make and model for the head? and i’ll have to check out when i get a chance and i’ll get back to you but the water changes i do once a month 5 gallons
i’ve had the tank running for a year or so due to the fact i got it on my birthday in june and set it up the day of and yes just took said pictures recently

depends when i get home from work but usually 10 hours maybe less
There are absolutely tons of options nero 3, Tunze, jebao are a few.
The rock is very "clean" for that time frame. The one the mushrooms are on looks about right. Do you have the spectral controller for the kessils?
More often and larger water changes.
Consistency is the name of the game with corals. Get your lights on a schedule either using a timer or get the spectral controller.. Keep your water changes consistent it will help keep the nutrients down and your needed parameters up.
 

Tommy B

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Generally speaking, depending on the tank, try doing a 10% water change per week or 20% every two weeks.

Note: a reef biome is very complex and different types of algae is necessary for a balanced tank.
 
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Shaedonj

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There are absolutely tons of options nero 3, Tunze, jebao are a few.
The rock is very "clean" for that time frame. The one the mushrooms are on looks about right. Do you have the spectral controller for the kessils?
More often and larger water changes.
Consistency is the name of the game with corals. Get your lights on a schedule either using a timer or get the spectral controller.. Keep your water changes consistent it will help keep the nutrients down and your needed parameters up.
honestly i might have to buy a new set because i had acquired these from a previous reef tank owner and it didn’t seem to come with the spectral controller. i take it that changes the light from blue green red etc? and i appreciate you all i’m going to start with doing my water changes every 2 weeks now and cleaning the filter once a week! lmk what else i could do to improve i appreciate all of y’all’s advice
 

twentyleagues

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honestly i might have to buy a new set because i had acquired these from a previous reef tank owner and it didn’t seem to come with the spectral controller. i take it that changes the light from blue green red etc? and i appreciate you all i’m going to start with doing my water changes every 2 weeks now and cleaning the filter once a week! lmk what else i could do to improve i appreciate all of y’all’s advice
The spectral controller is an optional purchase from kessil. It allows you to completely control the lights, timer function, ramp, spectrum, all that. Do 20-30% water changes if possible at least to start possibly more or you wont do much to your nitrate readings. Once you get that down to below 30 preferably 10-20 you can back off and just change what you need to keep it stable. Doing water changes will also replenish any trace elements that corals have used.
 
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Shaedonj

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The spectral controller is and optional purchase from kessil. It allows you to completely control the lights, timer function, ramp, spectrum, all that. Do 20-30% water changes if possible at least to start possibly more or you wont do much to your nitrate readings. Once you get that down to below 30 preferably 10-20 you can back off and just change what you need to keep it stable. Doing water changes will also replenish any trace elements that corals have used.
could doing trace element doses cause higher levels of nitrate? i’ve been using the brightwell trace and minor element supplements
 

twentyleagues

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could doing trace element doses cause higher levels of nitrate? i’ve been using the brightwell trace and minor element supplements
I dont think so but I am not sure as to what is in those. What tests are you using? ie what do you test for? Really shouldnt add stuff you cant test for. A little here and there isnt too bad but be careful with that.
 

DO YOU USE A PAR METER WHEN PLACING NEW CORAL IN YOUR TANK?

  • Yes! I think it's important for the longterm health/growth of my coral.

    Votes: 5 7.1%
  • Yes, but I don't find that it is necessary all the time.

    Votes: 16 22.9%
  • Not currently, but I would like to.

    Votes: 31 44.3%
  • No. I don't measure PAR and my corals are still healthy/growing.

    Votes: 14 20.0%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 4 5.7%
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