A tank fit for a rodeo clown(fish)

RodeoClownfish

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Howdy y'all! RodeoClownfish here. Just got my tank started this past weekend and decided to join R2R. Really looking forward to contributing and learning here. Regrettably I didn't take near as many pictures as I would have liked while getting started, but here's my build in a nutshell.

Before we start, a couple disclaimers:
- I'm new here. I welcome feedback of all kinds, but don't be rude.
- This is my first saltwater tank. I've kept freshwater systems in the past, but was looking for a challenge. I've always admired marine tanks, and after a year of watching countless youtube videos and lurking on R2R I decided to start this tank.
- My plan is to make this a FOWLR tank for the first year so I can get my bearings before starting with corals or inverts. I figure if I need to dose copper or Prazi in the event that one of my fish is sick, it's much easier to do in a FOWLR tank than a full blown reef tank.
- I farm for a living, and by nature farmers have to be resourceful and use whatever they have on hand to solve a problem. You'll see why I'm saying this later on in the threat when I talk about getting RO/DI water.

So...I bought a 75 gallon tank and stand used off of Facebook over a year ago with the intention of starting a reef tank. I don't want to admit it, but it was an impulse buy for sure. Then I watched the videos. Hours and hours and HOURS of them. I started reading on R2R and started to realize how difficult and expensive this hobby can be, and thought "what did I get myself into?"

Analysis paralysis set in, and unfortunately the tank languished for a year in storage before I finally decided to bite the bullet and get it off the ground. Fortunately, it came with just about everything needed to get started - two Hydor circ pumps, a eShopps sump, hang on back overflow, IceCap protein skimmer, Sicce return pump, a fluval marine light, a glass lid, and the stand. Here it is set up in my office. I chose this spot because it's frequently traveled, but was far enough away from return vents and windows.

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The next step was the rock and sand. I ran down to Lafayette to Aquarium World and picked up 70 pounds or so of purple reef saver rock, 40 pounds of CaribSea Arag-Alive sand, and some cycling products. I chose Brightwell QuickCycl and MicroBacter7 since I wanted a fishless cycle and MicroBacter Start, while effective, isn't compatible with the live sand. I traced out the size of the aquarium on some cardboard and began building my rock scape. Here's the final result before gluing in place.

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I wanted plenty of places for fish to hide in case of aggression, but didn't want caves where they couldn't be seen, so I tried to build a scape that allowed them to hide in plain sight, so to speak. Should be good for inverts like shrimp and crabs too once I get there. Per the suggestion of the guys over at Aquarium World, they recommended I glue the rock pieces together using Coral Putty, a purple colored two part epoxy putty, and do so in the tank, piece by piece so I didn't crack the aquarium. That turned out to be an excellent suggestion. Here's the final result in the tank.

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Mixing the saltwater was a bit of an adventure. I live in the boonies, so my house is on a well and the water is extremely hard. I happen to know a guy in town who owns a car wash with a very fancy, high cap RO/DI system for making the water he uses in the wash. After talking to him and verifying it made 0 TDS water, I asked if I could buy some water off him. I think he was surprised when I showed up with 50 foot of vinyl hose, a Sicce pump, and a 65 gallon poly chemical tank (bought new, only used for the water transfer) in the bed of my pickup. I wish I'd taken pictures, but this worked out better than I thought. I'd run the pump to his main RO holding tank, pump 55 gallons into the tank in my truck, run it home, back up to my office window, and run the water into a 45 gallon Brute trash bin to mix the water. I used instant ocean salt as it was the cheaper option and for now, this will be a FOWLR tank until I get my bearings, in which case IO is sufficient. I ended up mixing two batches of saltwater, each batch preheated to 78 degrees F and using a refractometer to verify it was mixed to 35ppt. I dumped in the sand, moved it around a bit, and filled the tank and sump with the fresh saltwater. It took some tweaking to get the U tube on the overflow started and also figure out the exact volume needed to fill the sump but not over/under fill, but I eventually got it down. The first few hours of the tank running were a bit nerve-racking because I figured if there were going to be any leaks, I'd see them in the first 24 hours of the tank running. Fortunately *crossing fingers* there are no leaks.

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I don't have any pictures of the tank with the rock, sand and water in it for some reason but I did take a video of it before covering the tank in cardboard and starting the cycle. My office gets tons of natural light and I didn't want algae taking over during the cycle. I dosed the QuickCycl until ammonia read 3ppm and started adding MicroBacter7 per the dosing instructions. I'll continue this for 7 days total before reading ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels again. My hope is after 7 days the tank will be cycled and I can start adding fish. Current parameters are as follows:

1.025 SG
78 degrees F
8.4pH
9.5 DkH
NO3 at 3.0ppm (currently cycling)
PO4 at 0.2ppm (not sure why, could it be in the salt?)
Ca 400ppm
Mg 1300ppm

I'll check ammonia, nitrite and nitrate after 5 days of cycling to see if they've dropped or even register. Here's the tank covered in cardboard to keep algae growth down while it cycles. We will see if this is effective or not.

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Lastly, here's a quick video of the tank before I covered it with cardboard. I did spill a little bit, but as we say in agriculture, "It'll buff!" Stay tuned and hope you enjoyed reading.

 

Mhamilton0911

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"It'll buff out." Also said by my husband everytime he takes his superduty down a deer trail.

But to give him the benefit of doubt, he is an auto painter, so if it doesn't buff out he repaints, lol.


Great start, I'll be stalking.
 
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RodeoClownfish

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It's great that you started a build thread even if it is after-the-fact for actual start of build.

Your tank is going to look amazing with life in it!

I'm looking forward to your tank cycling and having the first fish occupants.
Thank you. I wish I'd taken more photos and joined a bit earlier, but this will have to do for now!
 
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RodeoClownfish

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Friends, I had a total noob moment today. Couldn't figure out why my water levels in the sump were fluctuating so badly. Had a bunch of theories as to why it was dropping, including increased viscosity due to cycling/bacterial load and atmospheric pressure. Turns out, it was just evaporation and I need to top off daily. Never would have guessed that. You can find the thread here (embarrassed about it but hey, I'm new), but it's one of those things that for seasoned reefers is obvious but to me, it's all brand new. Just wanted to share in case there are others out there asking the same questions.


This is why I joined R2R. Wouldn't have known otherwise!
 

daileyo

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Why thank you! It's definitely an older style tank but it does match my office well. Should be a great tank to get started with!
I think the tank setup looks great. I really like your rock scape. It seems to blend really well with the room.

Friends, I had a total noob moment today. Couldn't figure out why my water levels in the sump were fluctuating so badly. Had a bunch of theories as to why it was dropping, including increased viscosity due to cycling/bacterial load and atmospheric pressure. Turns out, it was just evaporation and I need to top off daily. Never would have guessed that. You can find the thread here (embarrassed about it but hey, I'm new), but it's one of those things that for seasoned reefers is obvious but to me, it's all brand new. Just wanted to share in case there are others out there asking the same questions.


This is why I joined R2R. Wouldn't have known otherwise!
No reason to be embarrassed. it's all part of the process and experience. If you have the room, you might want to consider an ATO. I finally installed one about 4 weeks ago. It makes such a tremendous difference; and makes it so much easier for tank sitters if you are away for awhile.
 

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Friends, I had a total noob moment today. Couldn't figure out why my water levels in the sump were fluctuating so badly. Had a bunch of theories as to why it was dropping, including increased viscosity due to cycling/bacterial load and atmospheric pressure. Turns out, it was just evaporation and I need to top off daily. Never would have guessed that. You can find the thread here (embarrassed about it but hey, I'm new), but it's one of those things that for seasoned reefers is obvious but to me, it's all brand new. Just wanted to share in case there are others out there asking the same questions.


This is why I joined R2R. Wouldn't have known otherwise!
My 75-gallon FOWLR with mesh lids and without a sump needs about 3-4 quarts of top-off water each day, so that makes sense to me. (...though this was a surprise to me when I first got my tank, as it was more than I had exepected)

Turbulent surface flow is beneficial for oxygenating marine aquariums but also increases evaporation. Any added surface area in the sump not covered with a solid top will increase evaporation as well.
 

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I, too, plan to start out FOWLR and add corals once I'm comfortable with maintaining a stable tank.

OP stated "...if I need to dose copper or Prazi in the event that one of my fish is sick, it's much easier to do in a FOWLR tank than a full blown reef tank." Wouldn't the copper stay in the rock & sand and cause issues down the line?
 
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RodeoClownfish

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I, too, plan to start out FOWLR and add corals once I'm comfortable with maintaining a stable tank.

OP stated "...if I need to dose copper or Prazi in the event that one of my fish is sick, it's much easier to do in a FOWLR tank than a full blown reef tank." Wouldn't the copper stay in the rock & sand and cause issues down the line?
@KLaRue I apologize, the way I worded it made it seem like I'd treat the display tank with medication. I would definitely set up a hospital tank and treat there vs. treat the display.
 
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RodeoClownfish

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Well friends, I couldn't take it any longer. After dosing microbacter 7 the last 5 days and the tank covered in cardboard to prevent potential algae outbreaks, I had to take the cardboard down and see what it was looking like. Here's the results!

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I'm trying to soak it all in because I know the tank will probably never be this clean again. I tested the water to see if the ammonia was dropping and here's what I got:

Salinity 1.025SG @78F
pH 8.2
dKH 9.5
Ammonia 0.2ppm (dropped significantly from 3ppm at the start of the cycle)
Nitrite 0.5ppm (almost done)
Nitrate 2ppm

I need to invest in a phosphate checker from Hanna. I don't mind the Red Sea test kit I have but it just seems like having a Hanna colorimeter would be much easier/faster and if it's easy I'm more likely to do it.

I'm going to give the tank another week to 10 days to complete my cycle and then slowly start adding fish. My first purchase is a pair of tiger clowns from Aquatica in Tinley Park. Here's a quick video the owner sent me.



I just bought the gear I need for quarantine. I'll be using humblefish's hybrid tank transfer method before introducing them to the tank. As soon as all the parts arrive (and I buy two 10 gallon aquariums from the LFS) I'll start putting them together and share on this thread. The design and equipment for the quarantine tanks actually came from Jake Adam's latest video on the Reef Builders channel where he built a small tank for under $100 (not including livestock and rock). I figured if I could set up two quarantine tanks for under $200 that's well worth the investment to ensure the fish are clean going into the display tank. Thanks for checking in!
 

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The tank is looking Great!!!

I need to invest in a phosphate checker from Hanna. I don't mind the Red Sea test kit I have but it just seems like having a Hanna colorimeter would be much easier/faster and if it's easy I'm more likely to do it

I'd recommend it. I've gone through API, Nyos, and RedSea test kits. Both the Nyos and Red Sea where great in their own right... but the Hanna tests are a game changer. Its easier to test and track results with them.

Hanna just released their Marine Master tester. I wish this thing existed before I bought so many of the individual testers. I don't use all the options it has... but I would've considered buying it vs each of the individual checkers I currently have.
 
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RodeoClownfish

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The tank is looking Great!!!



I'd recommend it. I've gone through API, Nyos, and RedSea test kits. Both the Nyos and Red Sea where great in their own right... but the Hanna tests are a game changer. Its easier to test and track results with them.

Hanna just released their Marine Master tester. I wish this thing existed before I bought so many of the individual testers. I don't use all the options it has... but I would've considered buying it vs each of the individual checkers I currently have.
@daileyo I just checked out the Marine Master and it doesn’t even give you a purchase option. You have to request a quote. Oof! I hope it’s not one of those “if you have to ask you can’t afford it” kind of thing. Would be tremendously handy to have one tester for all major parameters rather than spending $50 for a checker for each parameter.
 
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RodeoClownfish

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Mail call! Some of my quarantine tank gear arrived yesterday. I got the lights, internal filters and temperature sensors yesterday. Still waiting on the heaters and the ammonia alert badges from seachem.

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The lights from Nichem I think are $70 each and are way overkill for a 10gal quarantine tank but it looks like they have some nice features light a dimming function and white/blue spectrum adjustments. If I like them, the pair may replace the Fluval marine led strip I have on the tank eventually. They were definitely attempting to copy the Kessil lights with the design but at a fraction of the cost I figured I'd give them a shot.

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The Hygger temperature sensors are nothing fancy but they have a high and low alarm in case the heaters fail, and from the comments I read on Amazon, the heaters do fail. I figured for the $8 they cost or so, it was worthwhile to have some sort of an audible alarm.

IMG_4591.jpg


Lastly these little internal filters are pretty cool. They come with a variety of nozzles so you can change flow patterns (I'm going with the setup in the pic to promote gas exchange at the water surface). They have an internal media canister for a small amount of carbon as well as a filter sponge. I took the sponges out and tossed them in the sump so bacteria start to colonize on them and will hopefully help control ammonia in the quarantine tanks.

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RodeoClownfish

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Well friends, my quarantine setup is almost complete. I bought two 10 gallon tanks from the LFS. Here’s one of the two tanks. I wasn’t going to quarantine my fish due to time and cost, but for under $200 I was able to buy two tanks, heaters, lights, internal filters, and temperature sensors. I figure that’s a pretty small investment to ensure my fish are clean going into the display. I’ll be using humble fish’s hybrid tank transfer method with hydrogen peroxide. I’ll dose prazi if needed for internal parasites but the LFS I’m buying from does quarantine their fish for a minimum of two weeks in cupramine. I think between the two I’m going to be off to a really good start! Stay tuned!



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Fusion in reefing: How do you feel about grafted corals?

  • I strongly prefer grafted corals and I seek them out to put in my tank.

    Votes: 3 3.4%
  • I find grafted corals appealing and would be open to having them in my tank.

    Votes: 49 55.7%
  • I am indifferent about grafted corals and am not enthusiastic about having them in my tank.

    Votes: 26 29.5%
  • I have reservations about grafted corals and would generally avoid having them in my tank.

    Votes: 7 8.0%
  • I have a negative perception and would avoid having grafted corals in my tank.

    Votes: 3 3.4%
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