Understand the concept completely. PRIOR to this phosphate low/ phosphate high/why are my euphyllia dying episode, I was doing NO water changes. This was my main reason for going Triton method. Because of my setup, WCs are pretty hard. Only reason I'm doing water changes now and running GAC is because I feel something is amiss, and I have high levels of lanthanum and lithium according to the ICP. I think I'll do weekly WCs for another month, get another ICP test and see where I am.
Back to the original point, if there truly were high PO4 levels (and actually in a worst case scenario, if they NEVER were that high), I very likely stripped them too much too fast. Again, the amount of phosphat-E I added should have completely eliminated the 0.25ppm or so I was reading much faster than it did, according to my Hanna. The directions note:
"Phosphate test kits may show a false-positive reading after aquarium has been treated; this is a result of the chemical mechanism by which phosphate test kits operate and does not indicate that the product has failed to perform its intended function. The higher the percentage of bound phosphate removed by filtration, the more accurate test kit readings will be."
I think my issue was I should have simply trusted the math, but I didn't. I initially DID see a decrease after using so I assumed that Hanna was reading accurately. Afterall, it says "...kits MAY show false-positive", the lower reading made me believe I was exempt from this. Once I saw the slight decrease, I assumed it was working and kept adding the stuff to get it under 0.05ppm, which I never did. The issue NOW is when can I trust the Hanna again? Hopefully the WCs and GAC will pull the Lanthanum out and I can ACCURATELY measure PO4 and have it match up with ICP testing.