Acros taking on pink color

christwendt

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Hello
I have a sps tank with about 15 acros. I follow trace elements closely and dose all trace elements via reef moonshiners method. Im noticing corrals like orange passion looking more pink than green. I’m noticing corrals that had no pink in them when I got them develop pink. Is this because they are at their peak or am I maybe messing something up with trace elements ?
The first pick is an orange passion that was deep green and orange when I first got it. Now it’s mainly pink with even some purple.

The second and third pic is sbb molten core that had no pink when I got it. I’ll post the pic from vendor.

IMG_2987.jpeg IMG_2980.jpeg IMG_1174.png
 

Gyarados

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It’s normal with what you are experiencing.
As a frag grows larger, it is normal to notice a color change or even a new color. This is because most frags are the tips of the acros which don’t always showcase all the colors of the piece (especially the body base color). Some acros even have colored growth edges where most are just white. This is why many reefers prefer to see the mother colony shots prior to purchasing. This is because they know a frag will look different once it fully develops. Also helps prevent from clones; where some frags look similar but different as it grows into a colony like the ORA pearlberry for example.
Either way new colors on acros are always exciting as it shows that the coral is growing and healthy. Consider what you are doing is good!
 

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If a frag that is not supposed to be pink is pink, then you are either killing zoox with metals/elements or the light is not right. If the coral is supposed to be pink, then you are doing well.

If you mean the Sexy Corals Orange Passion, it has never had any pink on it for me. First, verify that is is a legit piece with lineage - knock offs are sold. If it is legit, then just watch it and perhaps stop dosing anything but the big 3 and see if it helps over the long term.
 
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christwendt

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If a frag that is not supposed to be pink is pink, then you are either killing zoox with metals/elements or the light is not right. If the coral is supposed to be pink, then you are doing well.

If you mean the Sexy Corals Orange Passion, it has never had any pink on it for me. First, verify that is is a legit piece with lineage - knock offs are sold. If it is legit, then just watch it and perhaps stop dosing anything but the big 3 and see if it helps over the long term.
I know That corrals that are not pink are turning pink. Could 450 par be too much ? I don’t think it’s metals or elements. I dose with reef moonshiner and follow the elements very closely. Here is an example of a speciosa from CRT in his tank and then my tank after 4 months. This is the same frag I bought from them. I also have a local giving me another orange passion (same person). I know it’s changed colors because it looked great when I got it and had it on frag rack. The corrals that are looking pink also are fading in brightness it seems. The speciosa that looked pink I thought was cool but I just noticed it is STN from base yesterday now.
 

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christwendt

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If a frag that is not supposed to be pink is pink, then you are either killing zoox with metals/elements or the light is not right. If the coral is supposed to be pink, then you are doing well.

If you mean the Sexy Corals Orange Passion, it has never had any pink on it for me. First, verify that is is a legit piece with lineage - knock offs are sold. If it is legit, then just watch it and perhaps stop dosing anything but the big 3 and see if it helps over the long term.
Here are my light settings. I use 4 t5. 3 blue plus and one corral plus too. Par for orange passion is 450.
 

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christwendt

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Looking good!
I think something is wrong though tbh. Corrals are looking very different and although taking on pink, they don’t look as healthy and the same PE. It’s only certain sps though. Some are doing great and extremely bright.
 
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christwendt

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It’s normal with what you are experiencing.
As a frag grows larger, it is normal to notice a color change or even a new color. This is because most frags are the tips of the acros which don’t always showcase all the colors of the piece (especially the body base color). Some acros even have colored growth edges where most are just white. This is why many reefers prefer to see the mother colony shots prior to purchasing. This is because they know a frag will look different once it fully develops. Also helps prevent from clones; where some frags look similar but different as it grows into a colony like the ORA pearlberry for example.
Either way new colors on acros are always exciting as it shows that the coral is growing and healthy. Consider what you are doing is good!
I do understand that but the corrals are looking nothing like when I get them. Certain ones like orange passion , angry bird , speciosa. Here is the same orange passion freshly cut in the others tank. It has faded and taken on pink colors.

IMG_1185.png IMG_1184.png
 

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If you know you have a scop and you’re seeing pink then something is off. I have never seen pink on my scop (frag or mom). I don’t know much about moonshiner but I run ATI ICP tests monthly and follow their recommended element dosage. It is similar to moonshiner though I believe moonshiner recommends higher levels than the general ATI ICP recommendations. I would consider an ICP test which would reveal any excessive metal or element. Fwiw- here are the elements of Red Sea trace elements A that advertises it addresses pink. Could be too much of one of these
IMG_2782.jpeg
 

jda

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I know that Moonshiners relies upon complete buy-in and also total faith, but I am sure that you have seen the threads about inconsistency and accuracy issues with ICP tests that people rely upon? Also, that the setpoints for many of these elements is not known. Combine this with other folks having issues with ICP and blindly dose type of approaches and I think that you are at a crossroads.

There is no chance that 4 T5 bulbs and some <50% LEDs is the issue. You are clearly having issues with your acropora, so you have to decide if you want to keep with the faith-based testing and dosing, or stop. The tissue necrosis is concerning.
 

reefluvrr

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I noticed my acros changing to a lighter color. Some in particular were getting a pink hue from a dark rich color. I thought it was my lights at first. Then it turned out to be flatworms...

Could you check to look for pest since your speciosa is stn'ing and polyps look closed?
 
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christwendt

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I noticed my acros changing to a lighter color. Some in particular were getting a pink hue from a dark rich color. I thought it was my lights at first. Then it turned out to be flatworms...

Could you check to look for pest since your speciosa is stn'ing and polyps look closed?
Yea this has been on my mind. I found out my LFS had an outbreak from AEFW in their tanks a few months ago and bought one corral from them. I have spent probably 2 hours looking for pests. I have tried turkey basting the acros to see if flatworms fly off but I see nothing. I only see stuff fly off from the rocks but they just look like white food maybe little spots. Nothing comes off from the corrals. I’m noticing the fading and turning pinkish happening on areas right below the two pucks of LED (highest par area) but I have tested that par and it’s never over 450.
Here is the closest thing I have been able to find to a pest. This is the plug of the speciosa that I cut to try and save the good part. I think they are small vermatid snails though not eggs.
 

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Troylee

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Yea this has been on my mind. I found out my LFS had an outbreak from AEFW in their tanks a few months ago and bought one corral from them. I have spent probably 2 hours looking for pests. I have tried turkey basting the acros to see if flatworms fly off but I see nothing. I only see stuff fly off from the rocks but they just look like white food maybe little spots. Nothing comes off from the corrals. I’m noticing the fading and turning pinkish happening on areas right below the two pucks of LED (highest par area) but I have tested that par and it’s never over 450.
Here is the closest thing I have been able to find to a pest. This is the plug of the speciosa that I cut to try and save the good part. I think they are small vermatid snails though not eggs.
Those are Vermatid snails and they spread like crazy lol.. they won’t kill your coral but their webs will irritate them.
 
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christwendt

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I know that Moonshiners relies upon complete buy-in and also total faith, but I am sure that you have seen the threads about inconsistency and accuracy issues with ICP tests that people rely upon? Also, that the setpoints for many of these elements is not known. Combine this with other folks having issues with ICP and blindly dose type of approaches and I think that you are at a crossroads.

There is no chance that 4 T5 bulbs and some <50% LEDs is the issue. You are clearly having issues with your acropora, so you have to decide if you want to keep with the faith-based testing and dosing, or stop. The tissue necrosis is concerning.
I just can’t grasp that it’s my elements. Andrew Sandler even uses reefmoonshiners and his tank is what 20,000 gallons packed with sps ? Also why it’s only certain sticks being impacted while others are the doing great. It really does seem the corrals I’m having problems with are the ones right below the center of the pucks under my ai hydra 32’s. I have a par meter though and nothing is over 450. I understand what you are saying though about icp accuracy. Hmm I may try and stop and go back to water changes.
 
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christwendt

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Those are Vermatid snails and they spread like crazy lol.. they won’t kill your coral but their webs will irritate them.
Yea I have them all over. I have 50 bumble bee snails, trying to reduce feeding that floats in water column, and I dose reef snow. I haven’t seen their numbers really get worse. Do you think it’s possible to control their populations without manually removing? There’s no way I can remove them manually lol. They are in crevices and all.
 

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I just can’t grasp that it’s my elements. Andrew Sandler even uses reefmoonshiners and his tank is what 20,000 gallons packed with sps ? Also why it’s only certain sticks being impacted while others are the doing great. It really does seem the corrals I’m having problems with are the ones right below the center of the pucks under my ai hydra 32’s. I have a par meter though and nothing is over 450. I understand what you are saying though about icp accuracy. Hmm I may try and stop and go back to water changes.

'shiners is nothing new. People who overdosed the elements for ZEO had some corals thrive when others suffered. You really have no idea if the ICP was right, the dose was right, the stuff in the bottles was right, or anything. I would trust your eyes. Eliminate the unknowns which nearly everything in moonshiners is. Good luck.
 
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christwendt

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'shiners is nothing new. People who overdosed the elements for ZEO had some corals thrive when others suffered. You really have no idea if the ICP was right, the dose was right, the stuff in the bottles was right, or anything. I would trust your eyes. Eliminate the unknowns which nearly everything in moonshiners is. Good luck.
Question I have read your post on nutrients. My nitrates were 15-25 and phos 0.05-0.2. I started to dose carbon (DIY Nopox) and my nitrates over about 1.5 months went down to 5-10 and phos 0.03 to 0.12. I’m feeding the same amount as before I started carbon dosing. Is it possible that although my tank is reading nitrates and phosphates I’ve stripped the water from available nutrients and this is why I’m having problems? Look at this acro. It’s started to pale too. I started to notice corrals going pink and overall fading once I started to carbon dose.
 

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jda

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Possible and not likely any good way to find out for sure - there are not test kits for this. In general, I am not a huge fan of dosing organic carbon in reef tanks. You just have no idea if what you are feeding with the OC used ammonia, nitrite, etc. People assume that they use nitrate since that level goes down, but algae, etc. could have used the nitrate and the no3 was just not accumulating the same way with the bacteria driven by the OC using the other nitrogen sources before it gets turned into no3. It is possible that ammonia and other more available forms of nitrogen were not getting to the corals if waterborne things were getting to the ammonia first.

Methods like Zeo which do use OC also feed VERY heavily. I typically do not recommend OC use unless folks also import very heavily.
 

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