Ah! I’ve had good luck here using an electrically driven caulking gun to empty the cartridge of silicone quickly along a large span!
Recently, I applied 241cm (~8ft) of aquarium silicone all in one pass to install 32mm wide glass bottom bracing using this method, consuming a full 300ml cartridge of Momentive RTV108 silicone!
(Note the very ugly, but very functional perimeter inlet fume hood resting on the tank’s rim, sucking air through the plumbing holes to cure the large silicone lamination there)
That's kind of my point...
I can do that as well... but it's not smooth or beautiful. It's acceptable...
Yes... I do have pneumatic caulking, they work better than Electric Actually. And far stronger, can force silicone into deep crack.
If I place at 1.2mm to 1.5mm below the strip to create distance. I can press strip glass down and even out the surface smoothly, however, the issue is with "Spacers"... after removed & though I can force silicone through the space to fill the gap, it still create a hair-thin line, sometime micro bubble. Even that annoyed me!!
Since I've seen 100% quality work, its bugs me when I cannot get it done the same. I believe if I could just see how someone does it, I can get it done.
I still can wiggle my ways around it but I believe it's just more complicated than the original work.
1. It's to lay the strip first, using wood clamp to properly seal it to bottom glass. However, this method would beat the purpose of Structure Strengthen because what it ended up doing, is just creating a thicker layer of ice. Contrast to when you lay the strip glass with "One-Time Glue" that attach itself to both Bottom & Side of the tank.
2. Using Neutral Cure Silicone, it leaves more time to work on it and it's a bit flowy than standard aquarium silicone, but that also reduced its strength which beat the purpose of installing the brace supports.
3. Using flow-able is basically the same thing.
4. Re-mixing the silicone by pour it out into to a Mixing Cup and mix it with Silicone Thinner that allow it take more time to cure and soften than usual... the issue is... I'm quite certain this method is compromising structure & strength of Silicone itself.
5. Coating the strip first, with 1mm of silicone. Place glue in multiple rows and use a spatula or scraper to spread the glue across the strip of glass. This way, when you press it down, even if there are some texture or bubble issue, you won't see it since the first 0.5 to 1mm of silicone covers it. It's like adding a sticker to cover the ugliness inside!!
So far, Option #5 is what I frequently use!! I coat the strip, then place mutilple rows of glue or beads and just press it down and still the front gap like I do normal.. Now the inside is not perfect, filled with air, but it's functional & surface is look cleaned.
But then again, I did see a perfect work once. And I also was the one who tear the tank down, so I know the glue filling was 100% perfect, no gap, no air... And they somehow able to lay glue as thick as 3-4mm evenly across all 4 stripe. Each Strip of glass is 12cm. And all 4 sides were leveled to equivalent of "Self-level Epoxy Resin Casting".
The quality was insane and it kills to not be able to replicated it. And I ask many profession glass works, no one able to do it.