Adding t5 to mitras lx7

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Michael Gray

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Def would be cheaper to get t5 hybrid than lx7. But operating cost is have to figure out. 54wx4 running peak for 5 hours. Or lx7 running 10 hours at 90 or 100% HO. Hmmmm. Or I just don't put anything on ends of tank and just be done with it. Lolol
 

jduong916

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T5s don’t hurt lol

DD029506-7A4A-4C87-843C-984FE82EF94F.jpeg
 

jduong916

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what fixture hybrid is that or is that DIY

my Lx7 are 13" above water line ... i wonder if T5 will still be beneficial at that height.. i do love the way they look hanging above tank....
Just a diy canopy. I think mine is about 12” above the other water. I mean the mitras might be enough but I’ve always liked t5 combos
 
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Michael Gray

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Just a diy canopy. I think mine is about 12” above the other water. I mean the mitras might be enough but I’ve always liked t5 combos

im running the reef rockers live light composer... which if i remember is around 17k color on peak... maybe 17,300 somebody can correct me.. what bulbs did you add for the t5s im trying to find the best combo to not change my peak color so much... maybe ati blue+ and coral +....
 

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im running the reef rockers live light composer... which if i remember is around 17k color on peak... maybe 17,300 somebody can correct me.. what bulbs did you add for the t5s im trying to find the best combo to not change my peak color so much... maybe ati blue+ and coral +....
I use 2 blue plus and 2 purple plus. Next go around illl use all blue. I keep my t5s for at least two years before I change them lol
 
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Well I took the plunge and ordered the 48" t5 hybrid to go with the lx7s. I'll be converting it to only a single cord for power and moving the cord location to back middle.

I believe I'm going to try two blue+ and two coral + bulbs........
 
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Michael Gray

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Well I finished the aquatic life hybrid. Ripped the cords out and ran a single cord from the back in the middle to have better cord management and looks. I was unable to run em on my peak reef rocker live program. But I ran.tge T5 alone and the sand is about 100par in most all sand areas.

With my led only sand is 200 in middle and about 80-100 on ends. But that being said they are running long ways now and I started 6" from end of tank so that's probably different.

I'll most likely have to turn my LEDs down to run theses so I don't cook my sand bed.

I turned on my LEDs with the t5 quickly but it was about 8pm so it was blues. And tapering down since they turn off At 9pm but that being said. Middle of sand was 200 and ends was like about 150. Where I want it during peak. My rock was close to 250 then. Peak will be so high.

My question is....do I just turn down the entire led from 9am to 9pm. Or just focus on the 6 hours t5 will be on and just drop the LEDs so sand is 150 and rocks are whatever they end up being.

I have t5 only on timer for 2 hours for this entire week maybe 2. Then will up it 2 more hours and etc to get to 6 hours. Luckily no sps yet. No coral on the rocks. It's just a few zoas, 2 torches., And acans on sand. That is it.

IMG_20200630_211144.jpg IMG_20200630_211154.jpg IMG_20200630_211208.jpg
 
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Ok so I stated t5 on for 2 hours today. Plan on keeping it for 2 hours for atleast a week. Using reef rockers love mitras composer. I had to drop from the programs 90% intensity to 60%. With my t5. My sand bed is still getting 200 or 230 directly under t5 bulbs. My top of rock work is 250-280. My fixture is 11" off water surface. If I raise it to 12". Would that allow more spread to get rock to maybe 300 but lower sand. I'd love my rocks to be in the 300 par at top. For acros. But I want sand to be able to keep torch or acans??

Any suggestions if raising fixture will help achieve this??
 

Vinny@GHLUSA

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If you need some more light at the top, use the Power Balancing Tech feature or increase the intensity a bit more. Raising the fixture would increase the spread, but not by much since you'd be going up only 1".

You can also use the acclimation feature over a 6 week period to get the torch and acans adjusted to the additional light output.
 

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I have 2 LX7 on my Waterbox 190 and turned them longways and they cover most of the tank. I have them in an aquatic life fixture and tried the T5s for a while to get light to the ends of the tank. Ultimately I didn’t like it and will probably add either another 7206 or maybe a 7204 at some point. I still have everything mounted in the aquatic life fixture and may use the T5s in the future if the tank ever grows out enough where I need to deal with shadows.
And I do like the look of the lights in the fixture better than the GHL mounts
 

273629116

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Did you reduce the Mitras power through the entire schedule or only during the 7 hours the T5s are on. I recently switched to the same composer project and reduced the UV a little bit and will slowly ramp it back up. I'm now thinking about adding the T5s back in with the new program and see if I like it better
 
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Did you reduce the Mitras power through the entire schedule or only during the 7 hours the T5s are on. I recently switched to the same composer project and reduced the UV a little bit and will slowly ramp it back up. I'm now thinking about adding the T5s back in with the new program and see if I like it better
As of now. I have the composer the same as download but when my t5 turn on. I dropped led intensity to 60%. And as soon as t5 turn off. It just back to up to 90% or whatever the next step is.

With 60% mitras and t5 12" off water. I'm like 250 par on barebottom . I plan on slowly changing 60% to maybe 70% over some time
 

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Good to know, i think i have a similar tank with similar coral plans. I may go back to the T5 option and will have to rent another PAR meter to tune it
20200723_192231690_iOS.jpg
 

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