Thanks a lot for your suggestions! Ive sure been wanting to get an HOB fuge with the chaeto but I’m just going wait to upgrade my tank to an innovative marine int really soon. For now I added a bag of chemipure elite for the gfo. I’ve never heard of a phoslock- now I wanna look into that and possibly get one. I do understand that anemes need a little phosphates in the tank which are crucial to the survival of the endosymbiotic zooanthellea in the tissues of the anemone. I just switched from noe marine Brightwell to the Red Sea reef salt. I like it a lot it seems to have helped some growth and seems to be accurate on the measurements. I was actually buying natural ocean water from one of my LFS’s. It became too much of a chore and a far drive away from my home. With the pandemic and no money at the time, made it hard to commit to. So I fessed up and l learned to make my own water. Based on BRStv suggestions and testing videos for best salt mixes out there, I chose the Red Sea. I feed the fish once a day in the morning. The coral feeding maybe 2-3 times a week. Just this week I started to strain my frozen foods to reduce pollution from all of the junk added to the frozen blocks. I’ve been spot feeding the anem small bits of krill as well as some days switching to oyster feast (just to help it to get its zooanthellea back since I noticed it start changing colors from orange and green to pink, violet and brown/beige on some of its tentacles. I feed sometimes reef roids for everyone, but I hate how it turns my glass and my sand red. I did actually raise my temp to 78 funny you should say so. I thought the same thing. I wonder if the alk and Ca went up because of the salt change? I’ve been testing my phosphates but I don’t trust this API test kit for accuracy. My 4 LFS stores nearest to me dont have any other brand so Ive been waiting for my time off to get to the LFS that has a salifert kit. One LFS had a Red Sea test kit but it was $50- lol hard pass. I actually was able to match the look of the lighting spectrum to the pixie onto the HD Prime. The anem looks really happy now and it’s only been 2 days and it’s bubbles are coming back. Im leaving it on the settings I’ve made and waiting to gently acclimate to and brighter setting for the rest of the tank.Im quite proud of how its gotten a lot better. I realize through all of this that I want to reduce all of this every 3-5 day maintenance, bite the bullet and upgrade to the 75 gal Innovative Marine INT with a sump. I figure so far after my research that all I want to start out with for now would be the filter sock sump, protein skimmer, refugium, and ATO. Ill figure out the rest later.I think that's a good idea to commit to one light or the other. The nice thing about the AI Prime is that if need be you can sell it on Ebay for dang close to what you paid for it. People love those lights.
Now let's address your water parameters.
PH and salinity are fine
Temp is a little low but if everything seems to be happy you can leave that be but one degree higher may not hurt.
Calcium is okay but 500 is a touch high. Mine is actually 500 too but I'm shooting for 480. Alkalinity is quite a bit higher than I'd like to see it. I shoot for in between 9 & 10. Magnesium I like to see at about 1350, which will also help to buffer the calcium and alkalinity levels so you don't get run away numbers like that. Phosphates @ .25 are pretty high. I like to keep mine below .10, perfect # would be .05. Nitrates are pretty high too, things will be okay but if you can get those lower that will only help. 5-20ppm is a good area to be in. You have a skimmer so that should be helping to keep those numbers down, since your phosphates and nitrates are both pretty high I would ask about feeding. How often and how much you feed? Feeding is one of the quickest ways to run up levels of phosphates and nitrates. Depending on what you feed if it's frozen you can soak it in a small cup with a little tank water or warm rodi water and drain off the excess water and only feed the food portion. Flake food is usually very high in those components as well and if possible shy away from flake or maybe just not use it so often. The RODI water is good. If you're not adding buffers I'm wondering how your Alkalinity got so high as well calcium being a little high. You may want to use a different salt mix. I use premixed saltwater which I'm not suggesting you do I just use it because I only have a 13.5 gallon system so it's cost effective and time saving to use pre-mixed ocean water. I can do some research for you and find a good salt mix if you were thinking about switching. If you have an established reef you don't need to test for these a lot maybe once a month but it's good to know your Ammonia and Nitrite levels are at Zero or very close to it. Lastly I will say I'm not trying to tell you how to run your tank merely giving some suggestions to perfect your water conditions. Another way to lower phosphates and nitrates is by using Chaetomorpha algae. Chaeto can be grown in a sump or refugium and it photosynthesizes and removes phosphates, iron and nitrates. You do need a small grow light over the Chaeto to aid in photosynthesis. Another way to lower phosphates is to use a filter sock with some phoslock. You should activley measure your phosphates with this method though as you can strip ALL of the phosphates from the water column and that's not what you want to do. Good luck bud, I wish you continued growth. I'm here to help if I can.
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