Aiptasia as a Pest - and HOW to get rid of it

SHNICI

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I think that's one of the most popular and common pest in our reef system, and I don't saw any in the hobby to say "I never - ever got Aiptasia in my reef system"
I want everyone of you who got problem with or just found his best solution to share it here.
Like the TITLE say, can we collect many different opinions on how to take it off/remove/kill/etc..
I'll write down some of the methods I know, I'm been using, and I hear about. Everyone, if have some suggestions, descriptions and advices be free to tell us, if possible to be more detailed Please, because here I see every day at least 2 are asking about. Photos included will be a bit better for the people or the newcomers who don't have a clue and how to deal with.
LIke a question: Do you know good enough DIP solution which can take it off as a hitchhiker - pest from the LR/Corral or even Chaetomorpha Macroalgae ( many of you are getting it with that buying it from LFS or getting from friends infested with Aiptasia).
-> Aiptasia - Wiki <- / -> Aiptasia - basic <- / -> Aiptasia - thousands of photos <-

So I'll start with what I know it's working and I'm been testing:

-> Aiptasia X <- - probably the most popular in the Hobby: Shake the bottle -> fill the syringe with the liquid -> stop your pumps in the tank (not everyone do it, but is better to be done), stop return/s, wave makers etc.. -> go close with the syringe (with needle on it) slowly to the Aiptasia -> try to make the Aiptasia to digest it (usually everything what touch it, the Aiptasia is trying to digest) -> once the aiptasia touch with the tentacles over the needle push a bit in it mouth and dispose some liquid quickly in to can come over the aiptasia as well -> leave for another minute or 2 the water steady, and you can run your pumps and wave makers. Pros: depending how good you done the job, over 90% of the cases the aiptasia will be gone completely from the spot. Cons: if you fill with too much liquid from the syringe you can dama another inhabitants near/under it if it start fall off over them.

->F Aiptasia <- Stir well and shake prior to use. Turn off all power heads during application. Using included syringe, apply directly to aiptasia anemone. As you start to cover them, they will retract. Just cover them completely! Leave power heads off for 30 minutes or until product hardens. You can remove the hardened shell a few days later. After several hours, F-Aiptasia will create a 'shell' over the anemone and trap it with the caustic product inside the shell.
. Pros: Features by BRS Reef Safe; No injection required; No need to siphon anemone out of tank after application; Lasting results; No effects on water chemistry


-> Joes Juice Aiptasia/Majano killer<- -> Turn off powerheads before feeding. -> Shake well before use. -> Fill supplied syringe and tip with 'patent pending' mixture. -> For Aiptasia: Gently place syringe over their mouth, feed anemone a small amount of mixture. -> For Majano: Spread a small amount of mixture at their center. -> Both anemones will consume product and perish.
JoesJuice is an easy to use Reef safe product that will kill Aiptasia and Majano anemones. Simply feed the problem anemone a small amount of JoesJuice and watch the results. Within minutes, the anemone has disappeared and for good!




-> Peppermint shrimp <- - it will find and eat them it can keep the tank w/o Aiptasia, and don't need extra care (once the aiptasia is gone it can eat and another meaty food). Pros: It's good on eating aiptasia and is coming as a part of your CUC. Cons: many people write that them peppermint shrimp never touch the aiptasia they have. Like I know, many report they got/purchase fake shrimp as Peppermint, do your research about.

-> Filefish <- - Almost all the same as the Peppermint shrimp. I just know not all of them eat or touch aiptasia (the one which you are sure eat it, please show your exemplar Please) Cons: some can pick on your zoanthids

->Berghia (Aeolid nudibranch) <- - What to say about, this is one of the animals which is the Aiptasia predator, it's feeding on Aiptasia, it's eating only that, it will take all of it wherever it is in your system., the best way is ti have 2 or 3, but if you have small system 10-30G tank and 1 will be enough (depending how many Aiptasia are in your tank/sump. Pros: it will take complete care of the Aiptasia. Cons: once the Aiptasia get consumed and if don't have more, the Berghia will starve to death.
Berghia eating Aiptasia - ->VIDEO<- ,
IMG_20201020_094305.jpg
(Autor: @Sleeping Giant )

-> Super Glue <- can work, you have to seal it completely and some area around it to be sure it can't escape and to spread or to swim to another position. Pros: can be very effective if you done it properly and very simple method as the Super glue dry almost immediately and is harmless for the inhabitants (if used adequately). Cons: if you don't seal it properly, and/or the LR is very porous the aiptasia can eskape and to spread/move to another place. Can be very hard to reach it with the bottle under the water. If you use liquid, not gel Super glue it can easy harden the hole and you can't squeeze under the water. Isn't good to use it if the Aiptasia is in close contact to corals (you can damage them).

-> pulling it out <- - you can do that easy if the Aiptasia is on flat surface, on a Chaetomorpha Macroalgae, glass etc but I'll suggest not to do it with bare hands, will sting you (if your skin is more sensitive) and try to catch it completely w/o leaving any single piece of it, because it can regrow almost always if left there some of it.

-> fresh, tap, RO/DI water <- depending on what you got aiptasia you can use that one as well. Very good for washing LR, Chaetomorpha Macroalgae (for 5 minutes will be completely enough w/o damaging the algae), after just dip in some aged tank water and you can put it in your tank/sump back again. Pros: Aiptasia can't survive after FW DIP, only if it's in deep crevice hole and the water isn't reaching the entire body Cons: you will kill most of the life in the LR, can damage corals if you dip them that way.

-> lemon juice/vinegar <- - the same as the Aiptasia X, but this one you can use it over the aiptasia and is good to squeeze some on the base if you can reach, to melt completely the body. Pros: almost always work as charm Cons: be very careful how much you use in to your system, it can change you PH, KH and some other chemical processes if you use too much.

Have on mind:
- always when you do use any chemicals: not to put in your system too much, because they can bring some negatives on the chemical processes. If you are using animals like peppermint shrimp, or filefish: try to compare the one is it the particular which do the job, because of the many reports not all eat Aiptasia in real, and some are sold as them, but aren't really the same SP
- If you can to pull out the LR or the frag out of the tank, to treat it in a box filled with tank water, will be the best way, because that way you are avoiding filling your tank with chemicals. At the end of the process just rinse it with some tank water, and you will be good to put it back on plase



if some of my writing isn't true, or you have additional advise or something to include, please write it down in your comments, all the info can be helpful for the rest in the hobby


Also I'll ask #reefsqaud members to check it, and if there is something and have different opinion which is good to be sticked on the top post, please do it, I'll check regularly and will take care to include it
 
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SHNICI

SHNICI

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My go to has always been a copperband, he keeps the aiptasia out of the display, and in the overflow where they need to be.
but it sound to me isn't taking complete care of them? Only to be away from his range?
If you have photo, share it with us Please
 
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SHNICI

SHNICI

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I used F Aiptasia and haven't had any ever since.
what is the way to use that treatment if you can share it with us Please (detailed as possible if you can).
That will be appreciated by the newcomers in the Hobby :)
 
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For me eradication is virtually impossible, I have them inside my overflow, plumbing, and crevices.

I went a year without aiptasia and eventually came in as a hitchhiker, I don't mind them in the system as long as they're not irritating/stinging corals. I view them as great filter feeders that is part of the tanks ecosystem. Of course if I could remove 100% of them I would.... but i can't.
 
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SHNICI

SHNICI

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For me eradication is virtually impossible, I have them inside my overflow, plumbing, and crevices.

I went a year without aiptasia and eventually came in as a hitchhiker, I don't mind them in the system as long as they're not irritating/stinging corals. I view them as great filter feeders that is part of the tanks ecosystem. Of course if I could remove 100% of them I would.... but i can't.
So telling that, it sound like if we can take them off before they spread is the best way to have clear tank. Of Course can't everything to be 100% under control, but always we can take care to be dan much as possible
 

Funston07

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what is the way to use that treatment if you can share it with us Please (detailed as possible if you can).
That will be appreciated by the newcomers in the Hobby :)
Use exactly as these directions tell you. Also do not let it come in contact with any other live coral, it also tells you this on the box. It hardens up and a week later you can pull it off where you applied it and the aiptasia will be gone. Im assuming it smothers the aiptasia and it makes it where the aiptasia cant release offspring when they get irritated like they normally do using other methods. Its well worth it IMO and does the job.

16035709357126423940557830752637.jpg
 

Sisterlimonpot

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So telling that, it sound like if we can take them off before they spread is the best way to have clear tank. Of Course can't everything to be 100% under control, but always we can take care to be dan much as possible
The best measure against any pest is preventing them entry to the tank. That requires a level of discipline that most of us dont have. Quarantine every that gets put into the tank. Dips and visual inspections aren't enough. You have to monitor your inverts corals etc for weeks for unwanted hitchhikers.

In terms of aiptasia, they can be extremely small and pass through any dip you throw at it. Once it's in the tank it broadcasts throughout your system in no time.

Yes the controls you listed above can get the ones visible to the hobbyists (when treating with aiptasia x or f aiptasia), or accessible to the predator you added to the tank to control them. But nothing you listed will be 100% effective to getting rid of them.

So when we get them, we either go the nuclear option and start over, or employ measures to keep them at bay.

Now, if caught early, any of those measures can do the job, but you have to be extremely lucky that you caught it in time to do good. Because chances are, the minute you see one in your tank, there's a lot more you dont see.
 
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SHNICI

SHNICI

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Use exactly as these directions tell you. Also do not let it come in contact with any other live coral, it also tells you this on the box. It hardens up and a week later you can pull it off where you applied it and the aiptasia will be gone. Im assuming it smothers the aiptasia and it makes it where the aiptasia cant release offspring when they get irritated like they normally do using other methods. Its well worth it IMO and does the job.

16035709357126423940557830752637.jpg
Thank you for sharing it with the box, I'll include it in the main post now :)
 
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SHNICI

SHNICI

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The best measure against any pest is preventing them entry to the tank. That requires a level of discipline that most of us dont have. Quarantine every that gets put into the tank. Dips and visual inspections aren't enough. You have to monitor your inverts corals etc for weeks for unwanted hitchhikers.

In terms of aiptasia, they can be extremely small and pass through any dip you throw at it. Once it's in the tank it broadcasts throughout your system in no time.

Yes the controls you listed above can get of the ones visible to the hobbyists (when treating with aiptasia x or f aiptasia), or accessible to the predator you added to the tank to control them. But nothing you listed will be 100% effective to getting rid of them.

So when we get them, we either go the nuclear option and start over, or employ measures to keep them at bay.

Now, if caught early, any of those measures can do the job, but you have to be extremely lucky that you caught it in time to do good. But chances are, the minute you see one in your tank, there's a lot more you dont see.
you are right, I don't keep quarantine system all the time ready, and when I accidently get frag, I try to do all my best to observe it much as possible. Few times from LR which is been in quarantine I don't saw particular one I put it in my system, days later I see it there, now here is the time to take measurements to take it off somehow.
What about the newcomers? Everyone is been, and not all write down them homework to know what they have to look after, and then they start to ask about or to ID it.
 

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Ok I’ll be the first to say I’ve never had aptasia. I know my luck will run out eventually but for the most part I owe it to my dilligant inspecting of frags and inverts. I dip my corals and most importantly inspect them with a magnifying glass like a mad man. I have found aptasia less than a mm and not visible to the naked eye, at least a few times. I also remove the old plug and replace with new.
 

Kris 2020

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Sodium hydroxide 2.0M, like this:
Amazon

been using this for 12+ years. Will kill what it touches so have to careful of neighboring corals. Can be used directly in the display. Just use a syringe to shoot some in the area where u think it’s foot is. Don’t have to try and “inject” it in it’s mouth or anything. They don’t come back after this. It basically burns them out.
 
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SHNICI

SHNICI

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Sodium hydroxide 2.0M, like this:
Amazon

been using this for 12+ years. Will kill what it touches so have to careful of neighboring corals. Can be used directly in the display. Just use a syringe to shoot some in the area where u think it’s foot is. Don’t have to try and “inject” it in it’s mouth or anything. They don’t come back after this. It basically burns them out.
Please if have some other info (for the rest of us), or some tricks with the Sodium hydroxide - NaOH tell us, what to be carefull with, damages (Pros and Cons )
I'll post it in the main.
 

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Superglue must have not covered completely as they re-appeared.
Kalkwasser paste disintegrated them but must have throw-out spores as I got tiny ones in its place a few weeks later

Lemon this was similar to kalkwasser but I felt it worked better
Berghia these took some time but eliminated about 95% had 3 in a 20gallon and they also breed in tank.

Ordered Joe Juice, comes in tomorrow and also have 5 berghia but tank needs to be nuke.
 

mcshams

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Sodium hydroxide 2.0M, like this:
Amazon

been using this for 12+ years. Will kill what it touches so have to careful of neighboring corals. Can be used directly in the display. Just use a syringe to shoot some in the area where u think it’s foot is. Don’t have to try and “inject” it in it’s mouth or anything. They don’t come back after this. It basically burns them out.
Can you give an estimate of volume used per aptasia roughly? 1cc? more or less? I'm curious just to stay up on methods.
 

Kris 2020

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Please if have some other info (for the rest of us), or some tricks with the Sodium hydroxide - NaOH tell us, what to be carefull with, damages (Pros and Cons )
I'll post it in the main.
So when you use a syringe to squirt the NaOH at or on the aptasia, I think it has a chemical reaction with the saltwater (I’m no chemist so I don’t know why) and it makes it super hot where the NaOH meets the water. So the aptasia just kinda, melts, like it’s generally gone when the fog clears. I usually squirt a little around the space where the aptasia was after, just in case. A little of this stuff goes a long long way. it will dissipate in a white kinda swirly fog in the water. I’ve never had the residual foggy swirl hurt anything it touches in the tank. It doesn't seem to change the water chemistry in any way. I would guess after it’s reaction with the saltwater that it’s inert? The NaOH will kill whatever it touches directly out of the syringe though, so do be careful if corals or inverts are nearby. I turn off the flow to squirt but turn it right back on again to dissipate the fog. I’m trying to think of anything else, it’s been forever since I’ve had to use it. If my colonial hydroids pop back up I may try some on them.
 
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