Algae/cyano with 0 nutrients. Should I run GFO?

cginter

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I started a thread last week here trying to figure out this problem but I'm reading (0.00) phos using Hanna hi713 and .25-.5 no3. Should I be running GFO to get this under control?

I did a chemiclean treatment along with wc afterwards and it's back after 4 days
 

reeferfoxx

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I started a thread last week here trying to figure out this problem but I'm reading (0.00) phos using Hanna hi713 and .25-.5 no3. Should I be running GFO to get this under control?

I did a chemiclean treatment along with wc afterwards and it's back after 4 days
How long has the tank been running?
 

a6walter1

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GFO will only bind PO4, since you have 0.00 ppm PO4 it will not do anything. NO3 seems well within an acceptable range as well. I would suspect something else is causing your algae issues.

Do you grow any macro algae? If not, you might find that if you grow some, your nuisance algae will go away.
 
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cginter

cginter

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GFO will only bind PO4, since you have 0.00 ppm PO4 it will not do anything. NO3 seems well within an acceptable range as well. I would suspect something else is causing your algae issues.

Do you grow any macro algae? If not, you might find that if you grow some, your nuisance algae will go away.

No macro algae.

Water source reads 2ppm before DI and 0 out. I'm stumped. People on different forums say to run GFO others say not to. Been in this hobby for 6 years and haven't dealt with this much confusion.
 

reeferfoxx

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No macro algae.

Water source reads 2ppm before DI and 0 out. I'm stumped. People on different forums say to run GFO others say not to. Been in this hobby for 6 years and haven't dealt with this much confusion.
The only reason your tests show zero is because the algae is already absorbing it. Cyano will uptake po4 and hair algae will uptake no3. It's deceiving.

How long has the tank been running?
 
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cginter

cginter

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You have zero phosphate detection because the cyano is uptaking it. I would personally run GFO.

That's what I was thinking. I mean I've done two 40g wc this month and I'm still dealing with this. I just wasn't for sure or not if it would cause more harm using HC GFO
 
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cginter

cginter

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The only reason your tests show zero is because the algae is already absorbing it. Cyano will uptake po4 and hair algae will uptake no3. It's deceiving.

How long has the tank been running?

Well this tank, since April last year but everything was transferred from my 120
 

reeferfoxx

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Well this tank, since April last year but everything was transferred from my 120
When were things transferred and did you use the same sand as the last tank?
 
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cginter

cginter

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Here's some pics.
IMG_1475181636.714212.jpg
IMG_1475181702.471534.jpg
 

reeferfoxx

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Nope all new sand.
I went through your old post and noticed that you think it might be calothrix? Calothrix is basically diatoms and cyano put in one. What do you have for clean up crew?
 

CJBuckeyes

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If you use GFO to drive PO4 even lower, I think that you're just as likely to kill your corals as the algae. You won't kill the cyano.

@twilliard has developed some great methods to ID the type of cyano and treat it. Check out the threads linked in his signature.
 

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I only have experience on one tank, but my vote is to try GFO. I fought cyano for about 3 months after my tank developed a problem at about 6 months old. I resisted adding a reactor, trying to keep everything as simple as possible. Reduced lighting, reduced feeding, daily sand cleaning, none of that worked for me. About a month ago I did as much manual removal as possible, hit it with Chemiclean and turned on the GFO after a 20% water change. The sand has been bright white ever since.
 
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cginter

cginter

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I went through your old post and noticed that you think it might be calothrix? Calothrix is basically diatoms and cyano put in one. What do you have for clean up crew?

Thanks for skimming through my other post.

That's what it looked like to me at least on the over flows. It covered the GSP and killed it. The algae on the sand was more red/brown cyano type.

I have or had a bunch of crabs and ceirth and nassiurs snails, but over the year my wrasses have depeleted them. I have a new 350pc clean up crew coming Saturday from reef cleaners.
 
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cginter

cginter

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If you use GFO to drive PO4 even lower, I think that you're just as likely to kill your corals as the algae. You won't kill the cyano.

@twilliard has developed some great methods to ID the type of cyano and treat it. Check out the threads linked in his signature.

Twilliard is very knowledgeable. I've been talking to him roughly about using chemiclean. I'll try scratching his brain here in a bit.
 

reeferfoxx

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Thanks for skimming through my other post.

That's what it looked like to me at least on the over flows. It covered the GSP and killed it. The algae on the sand was more red/brown cyano type.

I have or had a bunch of crabs and ceirth and nassiurs snails, but over the year my wrasses have depeleted them. I have a new 350pc clean up crew coming Saturday from reef cleaners.
I would refrain from adding anything or doing anything to the tank until the new clean up crew arrives. After the clean up crew arrives, then I would make a couple changes. I have delt with this before and I believe it to be because of the new sand bed. I don't think it has matured.

I think running GFO temporarily would be enough. I don't think it needs to be ran all the time as it will deplete nutrients too much. But once the clean up crew is in, perform a cleaning and turkey baste everything you can. Collect all the debris in a canister or with filter floss, wait 24 hours, THEN add GFO. Whatever you do, don't touch the sand bed. At least don't touch it till it has matured.
 
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cginter

cginter

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I would refrain from adding anything or doing anything to the tank until the new clean up crew arrives. After the clean up crew arrives, then I would make a couple changes. I have delt with this before and I believe it to be because of the new sand bed. I don't think it has matured.

I think running GFO temporarily would be enough. I don't think it needs to be ran all the time as it will deplete nutrients too much. But once the clean up crew is in, perform a cleaning and turkey baste everything you can. Collect all the debris in a canister or with filter floss, wait 24 hours, THEN add GFO. Whatever you do, don't touch the sand bed. At least don't touch it till it has matured.

Year and half and still not mature? I did disturb a section of the sand bed last time I siphoned it, as I had some hard spots in the sand bed with cyano on top.

Ok no additions and no tinkering with the tank till CUC is in then I'll do some cleaning, I'm running socks 247 so that'll catch the junk then GFO.

What gives you the assumption that it may be the sand bed?

Thanks for your help.
 
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cginter

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I do have an extra bottle of MB7, would that help?
 

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