Anemone question.

[xxjokerxx0415]

Has anyone on here kept an anemone for more than 2years? Why do they die out at 2years? Why are they so expensive for such a short lifespan? Is it really worth the buy? How do you provide everything they need in order to live more than 2years? I don’t want answers from people that have had anemones for 2years and 6month or 3 years I'm looking for those who have had them for 4 to 8years and longer if such a person exist. I want to know your experience, your thoughts, how you did it, what you provided them, what your tips and tricks were or are. I want to know everything you can possibly give me. Fill me up with knowledge lol.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Has anyone on here kept an anemone for more than 2years? Why do they die out at 2years? Why are they so expensive for such a short lifespan? Is it really worth the buy? How do you provide everything they need in order to live more than 2years? I don’t want answers from people that have had anemones for 2years and 6month or 3 years I'm looking for those who have had them for 4 to 8years and longer if such a person exist. I want to know your experience, your thoughts, how you did it, what you provided them, what your tips and tricks were or are. I want to know everything you can possibly give me. Fill me up with knowledge lol.

While there is no typical lifespan, there longevity depends on:
Lighting
Flow
Feeding
Water quality

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

I have had a long tentacle anemone since 2018. They don't have short life spans they can live for many decades if properly cared for.

 

[Korkuc36]

Has anyone on here kept an anemone for more than 2years? Why do they die out at 2years? Why are they so expensive for such a short lifespan? Is it really worth the buy? How do you provide everything they need in order to live more than 2years? I don’t want answers from people that have had anemones for 2years and 6month or 3 years I'm looking for those who have had them for 4 to 8years and longer if such a person exist. I want to know your experience, your thoughts, how you did it, what you provided them, what your tips and tricks were or are. I want to know everything you can possibly give me. Fill me up with knowledge lol.

Anemones die because of human error. Nitrates shouldn't be more than 5. Phos near zero. Lighting has to be immaculate and powerful. 300 to 1000 par depending on the anemone. Random current. Obviously having clowns help because the anemone can thrive off of the co2 from the fish. The big 3 are just as important as they are with sps. Only difference is anemones need the stability and not so much the elements. Test for iodine as well? Because you should.

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

While there is no typical lifespan, there longevity depends on:
Lighting
Flow
Feeding
Water quality

I appreciate everyone’s response but please elaborate more on these things. What kind of flow feeding water quality and lighting that korkuc didn’t already elaborate on. Sounds like I’ll be dropping $1000 on some lighting lol.

 

[Korkuc36]

You don't need to drop 1000 unless you want too. You can get some viperspecta or popbloom for a few hundred. They are both very usable and very powerful. 3,4,500 par 12 inches down. They're just cheap because well, they are cheap lol. And they usually like random flow. Every which way possible. Nothing directly at them.

 

[vetteguy53081]

You don't need to drop 1000 unless you want too. You can get some viperspecta or popbloom for a few hundred. They are both very usable and very powerful. 3,4,500 par 12 inches down. They're just cheap because well, they are cheap lol. And they usually like random flow. Every which way possible. Nothing directly at them.

No fancy lighting needed. Its a simple concept. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes in parameters. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: Between 77°F and 81°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
• Water hardness: 8 to 11 dKH
• Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists soon find out that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

I appreciate everyone’s response but please elaborate more on these things. What kind of flow feeding water quality and lighting that korkuc didn’t already elaborate on. Sounds like I’ll be dropping $1000 on some lighting lol.

A nice thing about bubble tip anemones is they will move around to find lighting that they like. But they definitely prefer medium to high par numbers starting around 200. From my experience they seem to do better with regular feeding. I usually feed my LTA mysis or rods food twice a week.

With flow you want the random alternating flow. The tentacles should be dancing in the flow but not seem like they are being violently pulled away from the foot. No direct flow blasting them either. You should also put pump guards on most wave makers as they like to explore the tank trying to find a spot they like and can get sucked into the prop and shredded.

They need stable water and an established tank. If you want to play it safe go for 6 months to a year after cycling and make sure you nail down your maintenance habits for consistent parameters.

If you are looking into long tentacle anemones they don't attach to rocks the same way BTAs do. They bury their foot in the substrate and appreciate caves surrounding them to retract into. At least 4 inches of sand or cave with sand at the bottom.

 

[Brymac1]

I’ve had my rose bubble tip anemone for 3 years now. I do not feed it, it gets about 100 par, and I added it on day one of my new tank. It is now about 14” across with 7” tentacles.

 

[Korkuc36]

I’ve had my rose bubble tip anemone for 3 years now. I do not feed it, it gets about 100 par, and I added it on day one of my new tank. It is now about 14” across with 7” tentacles.

Nice

 

[bradleym]

I have a blue maxi mini I rescued in 2011, been through 3 tanks and still kicking in my main display...

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

No fancy lighting needed. Its a simple concept. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes in parameters. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: Between 77°F and 81°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
• Water hardness: 8 to 11 dKH
• Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists soon find out that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.

This was amazing information thank you so much. Thank you everybody you guys are amazing :-D

 

[Korkuc36]

I lost my ritteri due to a tank crash but I had 6-700 par beaming down on it for over a year. I could have doubled the par to 1200 and it would still want more. Then you have rock flowers which don't really need any light at all. Just make sure you do your research before making any purchases.

 

[moz71]

Interesting thread. I will give my experience on one. I had a RBTA for years under a cheap Marineland led. If people remember those. It had mostly whites with some blues. (I would not advise this or this light btw lol). He grew BIG and beautiful. But I always find interesting that people say need strong light. I really think it is right light spectrum just based on my experience.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I lost my ritteri due to a tank crash but I had 6-700 par beaming down on it for over a year. I could have doubled the par to 1200 and it would still want more. Then you have rock flowers which don't really need any light at all. Just make sure you do your research before making any purchases.

Carpets do require higher lighting for zooxanthellae production

 

[Sdot]

I think most of the guidelines posted are great ones, but just keep in mind they are just that, each tank is different. With that in mind here are my parameters that i keep my Mag or Rittteri anemone in. This is also an sps dominant system, with massive amounts of flow, which benefit the anemone as well as the corals.

PH: 8.3 - 8.5
Salinty: 1.026
Alk: 7.5
Phos: .03 (Goal is is .06 to .1) I get better color and PE
Nitrate: 15ppm (Goal is more than 10 less than 20) Better color and PE
Calcium: 480 (goal 420)

The Mag is more than 12 inches in diameter! There are a pair of clownfish in this anemone, however the male clown is taken care of the eggs, at the base of the anemone. They spawn every 2 weeks.

Pair below

We didn't have the best start however..... a week after acquiring it...well it almost died....bacterial infection. This will be 2 years ago as of 03/12

 

[bradleym]

I think most of the guidelines posted are great ones, but just keep in mind they are just that, each tank is different. With that in mind here are my parameters that i keep my Mag or Rittteri anemone in. This is also an sps dominant system, with massive amounts of flow, which benefit the anemone as well as the corals.

PH: 8.3 - 8.5
Salinty: 1.026
Alk: 7.5
Phos: .03 (Goal is is .06 to .1) I get better color and PE
Nitrate: 15ppm (Goal is more than 10 less than 20) Better color and PE
Calcium: 480 (goal 420)

The Mag is more than 12 inches in diameter!

We didn't have the best start however..... a week after acquiring it...well it almost died....bacterial infection.

Glad to see it's doing better! Can you comment on how long you've had it, just so OP has another example of 2+ years survival?

Also, I use all the same parameters for all the same reasons, except I keep my alk at 10-11. Any reason you're aiming so low with all the SPS in the tank?

 

[Sdot]

Glad to see it's doing better! Can you comment on how long you've had it, just so OP has another example of 2+ months survival?

Also, I use all the same parameters for all the same reasons, except I keep my alk at 10-11. Any reason you're aiming so low with all the SPS in the tank?

Hey yeah, no worries. It will be 2 years since getting the anemone. I would not recommend Mag anemones to beginners AT ALL. Very hard to acclimate but pretty solid as long as your conditions are good and consistent.

Regarding the ALK, i shoot for near ocean levels for most of my parameters. ive noticed better colors with lower alk, i know most like elevated for buffer and for growth, I chase higher PH for growth, and keep an eye on everything else. Also i have a automatic generator on my home, power outages arent much of an issue.

 

[Super Fly]

IMO tank maturity/stability and initial health of anemone helps. I use ATI T5 w 1 Reefbrite LED, DSB, 2 gyres running at 30% alternating mode and I never feed them. Started w one that I got from a local reefer on a trade 4-5 yrs ago and now lost count how many I have... now only if my clowns would make any one of them their home.