[Another Dino Thread]: Dr. Tim’s Treatment failed

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Robert Binz

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Well the Dr. Tim’s treatment (blackout, raise nutrients, refresh, waste away) seemed to work, but 3 days after the lights came back on the dinos are spreading across the rocks.

Literally couldn’t have come at a worse time as I’m studying 16 hours/day and about to leave town for a month.

I guess my next strategy will be DinoX
 

DrMMI

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Well the Dr. Tim’s treatment (blackout, raise nutrients, refresh, waste away) seemed to work, but 3 days after the lights came back on the dinos are spreading across the rocks.

Literally couldn’t have come at a worse time as I’m studying 16 hours/day and about to leave town for a month.

I guess my next strategy will be DinoX
My dinos came back within 2 hours of the lights coming back ok after Dr. Tim's treatment. I then used dino x, but I think I overdosed and it killed almost all my SPS frags, my torch, all of my astrenia stars, and peppermint shrimp. Just be careful with it. It might help to measure your exact water volume.
 
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Robert Binz

Robert Binz

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My dinos came back within 2 hours of the lights coming back ok after Dr. Tim's treatment. I then used dino x, but I think I overdosed and it killed almost all my SPS frags, my torch, all of my astrenia stars, and peppermint shrimp. Just be careful with it. It might help to measure your exact water volume.

Did the Dino x work?
 

DrMMI

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Did the Dino x work?
No, it didn't. That was the worst part. I was willing to sacrifice some coral if it finally got rid of my dinos but they came back in a few days. I'm in my 3rd week of elegant corals dino treatment now. It's showing some promise but I know the second I stop cleaning the sand daily, it'll probably come back.
 
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salty150

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Well the Dr. Tim’s treatment (blackout, raise nutrients, refresh, waste away) seemed to work, but 3 days after the lights came back on the dinos are spreading across the rocks.

Literally couldn’t have come at a worse time as I’m studying 16 hours/day and about to leave town for a month.

I guess my next strategy will be DinoX

So what you are saying is...

The Dr. Tim's did work....

But your underlying problem(s) was never corrected.

Watch this:

 

mstoneman17

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What are your nutrient levels? Specifically phosphate and nitrate. If you are running GFO id stop. Also what is your ph? Many people make tanks so perfect now a days that they have no nitrates and phosphates at all, and dinos love that.
 
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DrMMI

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Amphidinium isnt toxic i would jist leave it and make sure the nutrients are stable and in a couple of months itll be gone.
I know, but it's still ugly as hell. My diamond goby won't touch the sand when it's completely covered like that. I tried leaving it alone for the first six months and it only got worse. That's when I decided to finally start doing something about it.
 

Marc2952

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I know, but it's still ugly as hell. My diamond goby won't touch the sand when it's completely covered like that. I tried leaving it alone for the first six months and it only got worse. That's when I decided to finally start doing something about it.
I see, well in that case skim wet at night and sift the sand really well. The filter sock will clog quickly so you would have to change it much more often. I also suggest using a UV as it will kill some when you move the sand. Keep at it and it will disappear. Adding copepods seem to help a bit aswell. What are your phosphates and nitrate leves at?
 
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Robert Binz

Robert Binz

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So what you are saying is...

The Dr. Tim's did work....

But your underlying problem(s) was never corrected.

Watch this:


I said I raised nutrients. That was the underlying problem homie.

Also the BRS videos were clearly my first stop lol
 

jcolliii

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Two letters: UV.

Make sure flow is slowed down through the sump/rear chambers - I used fairly low flow through my UV to make sure everything got zapped well and truly. I also elevated my NO3 to help other things outcompete the dinos (I see you say you've done this). I added filter floss to both overflows, aggressively vacuumed out as much as I could. I blew off as much as I could find on the rocks with a turkey blaster, changed the filter floss *every single day* before the lights went on (to catch the mobile ones). Then give it time.

I bought the DinoX and didn't need to use it. Took less than 3 weeks and I haven't seen them since. I think the details of exactly what I did are in my build thread on maybe page 3 or 4. I think all of this depends on which type you have as well.
 
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Robert Binz

Robert Binz

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Two letters: UV.

Make sure flow is slowed down through the sump/rear chambers - I used fairly low flow through my UV to make sure everything got zapped well and truly. I also elevated my NO3 to help other things outcompete the dinos (I see you say you've done this). I added filter floss to both overflows, aggressively vacuumed out as much as I could. I blew off as much as I could find on the rocks with a turkey blaster, changed the filter floss *every single day* before the lights went on (to catch the mobile ones). Then give it time.

I bought the DinoX and didn't need to use it. Took less than 3 weeks and I haven't seen them since. I think the details of exactly what I did are in my build thread on maybe page 3 or 4. I think all of this depends on which type you have as well.

So my tank is only 5.5g which makes a UV hard. I ordered one and it takes up almost all of the display (no joke) so I've been taking it out during the day so light isn't blocked from my corals. I stopped to to try the Dr. Tim's so I'll fire it back up to see if that helps
 

abw75

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Recently had a cyano / dino issue (they both were present at different locations in the tank) and after many attempts to win the battle I was finally succesfull with H2O2 dosing (1ml / 10 g every 12hours) - read around about this method; Seems that works against many nuissance bacterias and algaes, except spirulina
I was one step away from dry out my tank :( but now everything is back to normal (even better); My issue come from low nutrients as well - never will make same mistake again;

90% dead coral thanks to cyano/dino
IMG_3579.JPG
 
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DrMMI

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Recently had a cyano / dino issue (they both were present at different locations in the tank) and after many attempts to win the battle I was finally succesfull with H2O2 dosing (1ml / 10 g every 12hours) - read around about this method; Seems that works against many nuissance bacterias and algaes, except spirulina
I was one step away from dry out my tank :( but now everything is back to normal (even better); My issue come from low nutrients as well - never will make same mistake again;

90% dead coral thanks to cyano/dino
IMG_3579.JPG
Were you dosing it right into the display/sump or into the air intake of the skimmer?
 
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