Anyone running T5/LED Hybrid?
- Thread starter AlvaradoL
- Start date
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Here is my ATI Sunpower HYBRID 5x24watt T5 and 24 Cree LED's @ 700mA (approx 60watts). 20 of the LED's have 80degree lens, the remaining 4 have 60degree lens.
The tank is 18" tall, 30" long and 20" front to back. The water height is 16" from top of sand to water surface.
Excuse the bad quality of the photo. For some silly reason I took the photo at an angle, but here goes:
Some notes about the various numbers:
1. PAR measurements were made using the Apogee MQ-200 PAR Quantum meter. This meter underreads the PAR from narrow spectrum LED's (mainly in the blue section) by around 10-20%, so my PAR levels are probably a fair bit higher.
2. The T5 tubes, bar the actinic tube, are about 5 months old. When I put in new tubes I expect the PAR levels to increase slightly.
3. The light unit is suspended 7.5" above the waters surface. If I mount it lower, PAR levels get too high causing bleaching due to photoinhibition.
4. Numbers in RED are PAR readings on the SAND. The 175, 265,175 are right against the FRONT glass. 175's are in the extreme corners. The 390-A is the PAR in the centre of the tank on the sand bed.
5. PAR levels 1" below the unit are in excess of 2500!!!
6. PAR numbers just below the surface of the water is around 1100!
I am extremely impressed with this light modification. Since the purchase of the PAR meter, I have been looking at various PAR measurements carried out by other hobbyists and it appears that the PAR levels are in similar range to 400watt halide systems. All in all, I am very happy with the PAR levels and the possibility of supplying very good spectral quality via the use of various T5 tube combinations.
The unit has the following T5 Tubes/LED front to back:
Front:
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlue Special
Cree XR-E LED's: 20 x Royal Blue + 4 x Blue
KZ FijiPink
Arcadia 420nm 03 Actinic
ATI Blue+
The actual look of the tank is not as blue as the photo. It is a very nice 20K look. I get some shimmer, but I also get a "depth and metallic look" to corals that T5's miss out.
The tank is 18" tall, 30" long and 20" front to back. The water height is 16" from top of sand to water surface.
Excuse the bad quality of the photo. For some silly reason I took the photo at an angle, but here goes:
Some notes about the various numbers:
1. PAR measurements were made using the Apogee MQ-200 PAR Quantum meter. This meter underreads the PAR from narrow spectrum LED's (mainly in the blue section) by around 10-20%, so my PAR levels are probably a fair bit higher.
2. The T5 tubes, bar the actinic tube, are about 5 months old. When I put in new tubes I expect the PAR levels to increase slightly.
3. The light unit is suspended 7.5" above the waters surface. If I mount it lower, PAR levels get too high causing bleaching due to photoinhibition.
4. Numbers in RED are PAR readings on the SAND. The 175, 265,175 are right against the FRONT glass. 175's are in the extreme corners. The 390-A is the PAR in the centre of the tank on the sand bed.
5. PAR levels 1" below the unit are in excess of 2500!!!
6. PAR numbers just below the surface of the water is around 1100!
I am extremely impressed with this light modification. Since the purchase of the PAR meter, I have been looking at various PAR measurements carried out by other hobbyists and it appears that the PAR levels are in similar range to 400watt halide systems. All in all, I am very happy with the PAR levels and the possibility of supplying very good spectral quality via the use of various T5 tube combinations.
The unit has the following T5 Tubes/LED front to back:
Front:
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlue Special
Cree XR-E LED's: 20 x Royal Blue + 4 x Blue
KZ FijiPink
Arcadia 420nm 03 Actinic
ATI Blue+
The actual look of the tank is not as blue as the photo. It is a very nice 20K look. I get some shimmer, but I also get a "depth and metallic look" to corals that T5's miss out.
swannyson7
Moderator/Acro Aficianado
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I'm running 468w of T5 and 450w of LED on my 180g. I'm posting from my phone at the moment so I can't really post pics, but theres plenty in my build thread linked in my signature.
Riblet
Active Member
So why doesn't ATI make an iPad app interface for this, seems like that would be a much better option then having to cable a computer to your light every time you want to make a change. An AI Director type setup should be easy enough, just saying for the cost of the fixture they should have an option like this.
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