Anyone see any problems with this tank build?

bkoppes · Mar 20, 2011

48x30x22
1/2 starphire front, 3/4 inch sides, 1/2 back
coast to coast overflow on back
eurobracing on sides and front

soccerbag · Mar 20, 2011

I'm not tank designer but that looks good to me. The eurobracing will help if you want to run some sort of "wave" motion. And the coast-to-coast overflow will be great! The only thing I would recommend is some "teeth" going into the overflow to help prevent any fish from "going over". That could be accomplished with some black acrylic fastened to the inside of the overflow....if that makes sense.

I'm sure some of the fabricators on here (Troylee) will have more input. Looks good though.

bkoppes · Mar 20, 2011

Thanks. Was planning on creating a wave in there.

soccerbag · Mar 20, 2011

Will the 2 x 1 1/2" holes in the overflow just be drains (I'm sure they are). What are your plans for a return? Will you be drilling the back or bottom for returns?

bkoppes · Mar 20, 2011

Planning on coming over the top for the returns, not drilling.

soccerbag · Mar 20, 2011

Will you be building this, having a local shop build it for you, or are you ordering? Looking forward to seeing this come together...

bkoppes · Mar 20, 2011

Ordering. I will be doing a build thread once I get it. I have everything already purchased except for the tank, rock and sand.

Troylee · Mar 21, 2011

Looks good but how deep or far down is the slit in the back for the overflow??? And what kind of wave you talking???

bkoppes · Mar 21, 2011

I believe 1 inch is what we were planning(The back pane of glass is going to be 1 inch shorter than the rest.) Hoping to be able to create a small wave with my MP40s.

Troylee · Mar 21, 2011

Yeah that sounds good should work like a champ..... The teeth aren't a bad idea at all I run them on my tanks and any tank I build.... It cuts down the surface skimming by 40percent or so depending on teeth size but it's a life saver... It will help from snails clogging the overflow or fish going down the swirly vortex of terror to the sump lol... I would also run 3 drains the bean animal style overflow it's the best in the business IMHO.

PR_Reefers · Mar 21, 2011

Looks good to me...!! looking forward to seeing this build:tongue:... just pointing out that the wave will probably make more sound...if that's not a concern to then never mind:bigsmile: I believe the sound is soothing also lol

bkoppes · Mar 21, 2011

Troylee said:
Yeah that sounds good should work like a champ..... The teeth aren't a bad idea at all I run them on my tanks and any tank I build.... It cuts down the surface skimming by 40percent or so depending on teeth size but it's a life saver... It will help from snails clogging the overflow or fish going down the swirly vortex of terror to the sump lol... I would also run 3 drains the bean animal style overflow it's the best in the business IMHO.

Bean animal style?

Troylee · Mar 21, 2011

Bean animal dead silent fail safe overflow...

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/eq...an-animals-dead-silent-failsafe-overflow.html

bkoppes · Mar 21, 2011

Looks like I need another hole in my overflow. Thanks, will be doing this.

Troylee · Mar 21, 2011

No problem... It's truly a awesome set up big props to Anthony calfo for the overflow design and bean animal for the drain set up....1smile1

wooboodoo · Mar 23, 2011

bkoppes said:
48x30x22
1/2 starphire front, 3/4 inch sides, 1/2 back
coast to coast overflow on back
eurobracing on sides and front

Everything is cool but can you tell me why you want to use that thick glass? Front, back and bottom 1/2" is enough for sides you can use even 3/8" is no reason to use 3/4" for side walls... eurobracing for sides? I have build couple hundreds tanks in my whole life but newer glued any brace to the sides

I understand if you want to use this like a shelf or light support other way you don't really need it.

GL with your new project !
Regards
mark

Hahnmeister · Mar 26, 2011

If its only 2 holes, thats actually my overflow style, not Bean's...lol. I always used to argue with Bean that 2 holes could do everything his 3 could. My 48x30x21"h build was proof of that. I used 1/2" starphire for the front and 1/2" on the rest. I used 3" wide 1/2" thick "euro bracing" all around, and black silicone (of course). I think I did a bang-up job on it, better than the Miracles tanks I have seen.

I didnt like the 30" depth in the end. Along the top, yes, but the back bottom was alot of wasted space. If I had to do it all over, I would make the bottom glass sloped from front to back to eliminate that dead zone in the back (use aragacrete plates to create a fake sandy slope on the bottom). A 96"x36"x24"h version of this with a sloped glass bottom is actually my next project. Either that or I would just stick to no more than 24" of depth and just make the tank longer. Its just better viewing, better swim space for fish like tangs, etc. I was trying to get away with a size that would allow me to use one metal halide on a light mover (and it worked awesome!) but then I became a T5 convert (and now LED) so I ended up wishing I had just gone with the "stock" 6'x18" footprint instead, or 72"x24"x18"h. Just something to consider. I did like 48x30x21, dont get me wrong... loved it, but I think if I were to do it again today I would go narrow and long.
From first setup:

kuyatwo · Mar 26, 2011

i have very similar tank being built right now 48x30x24 with external overflow but my returns will be seaswirls

i went 1/2" glass starphire on three sides and reg 1/2" glass on the back

bottom is double 1/2" glass

here is a build thread in my local fish club. Near the bottom of the first page you will see pics of tank being assembled and the metal stand i am using

DFW Marine Aquarium Society • View topic - 140 Gallon Starphire Build

johnanddawn · Mar 26, 2011

did you say who was building it for you ? i like the size/shape but do you think it will be tough to reach the center back?

Hahnmeister · Mar 28, 2011

Yep, it is tough to reach the center back. I thought it was tough and Im 6'5" with 38" sleeve length! The only way I will do more than 24" depth is if the bottom is sloped so the back is nice and shallow or if the tank has access from the back side. Its also why I will likely never get a tank that is taller than 24" as well. The other thing I noticed is that its harder to view the corals when they are 2' or more away. The main reason I like the 30" depth is that the back corners get darker and it gets easier to hide the tunze's. But its even easier to use aragacrete of ceramic walls on the back glass that you can hide everything in/behind, and then you really dont need more than 24". If I can get my hands on some 10' or 12' low iron glass, I would love to make a 12'x24"x24" tank. That would be just right. And with a long and narrow shot like that, can you imagine the flow you would get with a couple 5000 gph tunzes at each end?