At wits end [emoji31]

[saltyfilmfolks]

I have them too salty but have yet to bloom.

Too many factors can cause a bloom. Maintaining none perceived ideal conditions keeps them at bay.

I find temp swings brings them out to play Be interesting to see if people Suffer with them when a chiller is in use.

Either way continue to do as your doing and don't change anything

We can so easily be caught up in this bug and like to try new stuff and tweak. Honestly not worth it half the time.

I don’t belive the big specific chase is worth it.
It’s an overall systemic prob and can be overcome quite cheaply.
I’ve been here too long with too many cases belive otherwise. And most real research backs this up. And the methods for treatment are all exactly the same , weather it be cyano or non positively I’d dino or not.
Last year most everyone said not to buy UV for Dino’s. This year it’s in vogue.

Mat and I along a with a couple others actually developed the Methodology in the dino thread.
The old methodology in the old thread was abandoned. Mostly UV and dosing to achieve a balance that has since proven again to to be incorrect.

My difficulty with the current method advocated it that it lacks the simplicity of the actual systemic conditions required by the organisms to bloom and adds constant needless purchases to both ID the organisms and to iraddicate them.

There appears to be no indication of of nutrient limitation here.
There is an abundance of aminos and other bacteria favored foods.
PH has not been addressed.
Co2 has not been adressed.
Flow has not been addressed.

Natural inexpensive husbandry methods were not and generally are not reccomended as a first step by currently and the dino is viewed and classified as an ultimate enemy , when simple steps can can actually yield better results in most cases with less effort and cost much and definitely less worry.

The OP can of course make up thier own mind. But I think it’s fair to offer the other options.

Kalkwasser in the ato.
Bio diversity (in this case mud in in play)
Look at flow and see if it’s causing foods to pile up (it rots, makes ammonia then nitrates , nitrifying bacteria also feeding on rotting waste creates co2. This in turn creates a micro climate perfect for both cyano and dino )
Rotate foods or eliminate one (I personally can’t feed LRS dailiy , I get cyano)
Disturb the mats daily or every other to prevent microclimate.
Use thicker filter socks to aid in that manual removal. Or use a reactor or canister filter with floss only and change it often. (“They prefer the sand “ well not if you smash em with a turkey baster they don’t )
Use of good bottled Bacteria to bolster the bio filter. (Over time the nitrifying strains will attain a dominant one in a system. Using something like dr Tim’s one and only as it has several strains actually helps to compete. It would be classified as pro biotic )
And clean the fuge. It can become a nitrate factory and add ammonia due to rotting foods.

That’s all I’m sayin. Fact based Options.

 

[Samina]

I appreciate the differences in opinions and approaches. It helps paint a better picture because it provides an angle and perception from different viewpoints. Much to learn from it all.

Having a UV on line wouldn’t hurt anything except help level the bacterial load per water volume. If anything, that’s a good thing for the horses anyhow. I have ordered a 25w Emperor Aquatics SMART UV. Aside from that, I have put up the spare mp40 I had lying around. Hopefully that helps address possible dead spots. I will start removing a bit of sand little by little over the course of a couple months so that only an inch or less remains. I have to keep some for the YW goby and shrimp. I am still constantly blowing rocks and coral off multiple times a day and siphoning out the gunk with the baster. And the stuff grows back within a short time.

I do agree that I don’t feel I have a true nutrient limitation because my PO4 never bottomed out, just NO3 and I actually also have some GHA on some rocks as well now. But it came after I started dosing KNO3. But even when I had 0ppm nitrates, and before this issue started, I was still having to clean the glass every other day, so it lead me to believe that I had nutrients in the system, just was not registering. I plan on reducing the target feeds as well by using a bit less and diluting more. I may be heavy handed when it comes to the target feed cocktail.

As for pH and CO2, what do you think needs to be addressed? The pH swing lately has been 7.98-8.38 from night to day. And yes I do have Kalk in the ATO.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I think your tank tank is just phasing.
Keep doing what you’re doing.
Is obvious your paying attention and care.

Worlds coolest chess game.

 

[Paullawr]

I don’t belive the big specific chase is worth it.
It’s an overall systemic prob and can be overcome quite cheaply.
I’ve been here too long with too many cases belive otherwise. And most real research backs this up. And the methods for treatment are all exactly the same , weather it be cyano or non positively I’d dino or not.
Last year most everyone said not to buy UV for Dino’s. This year it’s in vogue.

Mat and I along a with a couple others actually developed the Methodology in the dino thread.
The old methodology in the old thread was abandoned. Mostly UV and dosing to achieve a balance that has since proven again to to be incorrect.

My difficulty with the current method advocated it that it lacks the simplicity of the actual systemic conditions required by the organisms to bloom and adds constant needless purchases to both ID the organisms and to iraddicate them.

There appears to be no indication of of nutrient limitation here.
There is an abundance of aminos and other bacteria favored foods.
PH has not been addressed.
Co2 has not been adressed.
Flow has not been addressed.

Natural inexpensive husbandry methods were not and generally are not reccomended as a first step by currently and the dino is viewed and classified as an ultimate enemy , when simple steps can can actually yield better results in most cases with less effort and cost much and definitely less worry.

The OP can of course make up thier own mind. But I think it’s fair to offer the other options.

Kalkwasser in the ato.
Bio diversity (in this case mud in in play)
Look at flow and see if it’s causing foods to pile up (it rots, makes ammonia then nitrates , nitrifying bacteria also feeding on rotting waste creates co2. This in turn creates a micro climate perfect for both cyano and dino )
Rotate foods or eliminate one (I personally can’t feed LRS dailiy , I get cyano)
Disturb the mats daily or every other to prevent microclimate.
Use thicker filter socks to aid in that manual removal. Or use a reactor or canister filter with floss only and change it often. (“They prefer the sand “ well not if you smash em with a turkey baster they don’t )
Use of good bottled Bacteria to bolster the bio filter. (Over time the nitrifying strains will attain a dominant one in a system. Using something like dr Tim’s one and only as it has several strains actually helps to compete. It would be classified as pro biotic )
And clean the fuge. It can become a nitrate factory and add ammonia due to rotting foods.

That’s all I’m sayin. Fact based Options.

And everything listed above had been tried.

The identification process is to avoid the same mistakes often made by many.
Its dinos throw UV at it. For some strains it will be effective and others not so. Hence why you were probably in the right once then not favoured. This is the issue. Dinos are labelled under one umbrella but each strain behaves like a different organism entirely.

Firstly and foremost I have my doubts with a lot that Matt spouts quite frankly. I'm still not convinced on the old nutrient side of things but made my mind up it reduces a stress indicator within the cells and in effec lt calms them from reproducing like a species on the edge of extinction.

I really doubt biodiversity adds anything. No one has yet to provide a photo of some critter on mass decimating a dino population. Why is that.

Just to give you an idea I've run elevated levels of kalkwasser during blooms. At steady 9.0 it's done nothing. Only to kill them is to ratchet it to 10. But it's entirely possible some strain someone once had was suspectable to a pH of 8.8 for arguments sake. Again categorisation is key here.

Thrown metroplex, h202, o3, at it. Done large filter docks small ones, changes sand beds and rocks done lights out, dropped and raised salinity increased and decreased temperature. Run miracle mud Chaeto, live rock added pods of every size and shape, restarted tank run bleach and fresh water, tried vibrant.

There isn't much I haven't tried on my previous four infected systems. Kinda got that t shirt covered.

At the moment though this tweaking seems to work for people. Personally it could just be hyperbole and they would subside anyway.

Oh and as for UV. If it's not powerful enough you may as well shine a torch at it. Not strong enough to dent the theta. 55w jebao or $10 a gallon seems to be the order of the day.

 

[John3]

I was doing a lot of panicking when I had Dino’s. I never put it under a scope to identify the strain but I just used peroxide to treat the tank and it went from a mess to normal in about 2 weeks. I had no ill affects to any corals from the treatments but I didn’t have any sps, only lps, shrooms and zoas. It’s been 8 months now and I have not seen it return. I do think younger tanks that are still balancing out are the most susceptible to Dino’s.