So let's say I have my RODI system hooked up directly to my sumps return chamber, and let's say the float valve gets stuck on. What will overflow, the sump or the display tank?
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How can it be potentially both, without an emergency drain? There is no extra water going into the display tank than normalIf you have an emergency overflow, just the sump. If not, potentially both.
Wouldn't it also be easy to add an extra layer by having it shut off the pump if the salinity took a substantial drop? I don't have the atk but I was going to use that as my final failsafe on my diy ato.Your best bet is to utilize multiple layers of redundancy. I use the Neptune ATK which has 4 layers of safeguards to prevent overflows:
1. Low water level sensor, used to detect when to turn on and turn off the ATO.
2. High water level sensor. If the low sensor fails to turn it off, the high sensor turns it off and an alarm notification is sent.
3. A timer that doesn't let it run for more than X minutes. If both the low and high sensors fail to turn it off, and it runs longer than normal (a value you specify which is normally long enough to account for typical evaporation in your system and environment) then the ATO is turned off permanently until you manually intervene to turn it back on. You will receive another alarm notification of this abnormal situation.
4. A mechanical float valve to pinch the supply line closed. This is the last line of defense.
I have never had any ATO overflows with the ATK in the 3+ years I've been using it. See my tutorial on the Neptune ATK for more details:
Neptune Apex Programming Tutorials, Part 3: Automatic Top-Off Kit (ATK)
Part 3 of our series on learning how to program your Neptune Apex for automatic top-off in a saltwater aquarium.www.reef2reef.com
You can also build this same type of multiple redundancies with other automation controllers and some DIY skills.
Salinity change. But it's most likely moot since most have more than a single return.How can it be potentially both, without an emergency drain? There is no extra water going into the display tank than normal
It depends on the salinity probe being used. The Apex probe is notorious for swings in readings due to bubbles, debris, or electrical interference. Also, if the water is so low that the salinity probe is no longer submerged, it will report low salinity, making the situation worse since the ATO wouldn't add water.Wouldn't it also be easy to add an extra layer by having it shut off the pump if the salinity took a substantial drop? I don't have the atk but I was going to use that as my final failsafe on my diy ato.
I've had mixed feelings with my apex salinity probe. Currently it's working well for me so I'm trying not to touch it. If I start getting unrealistic swings I'm probably going to install the vca sps kit.It depends on the salinity probe being used. The Apex probe is notorious for swings in readings due to bubbles, debris, or electrical interference. Also, if the water is so low that the salinity probe is no longer submerged, it will report low salinity, making the situation worse since the ATO wouldn't add water.
I never base any automation on the salinity probe reading, other than sending me alert notifications.
Sorry but I don't follow your logic. Definitely in the OPs hypothetical scenario the salinity of the tank will drop, if not caught, eventually to where the tank is almost completely fresh water. I don't see how the salinity of the water as any bearing on where the extra water goes.Salinity change.
Leak sensors are never a bad idea, regardless of how many additional failsafes your already have. Just be sure to place the leak sensors on a layer of paper towel to avoid false-positive readings due to simple condensation or certain surface textures. A real leak will saturate the paper towel and set off the leak sensor.I've had mixed feelings with my apex salinity probe. Currently it's working well for me so I'm trying not to touch it. If I start getting unrealistic swings I'm probably going to install the vca sps kit.
Also, my probe isn't in the return chamber, so in theory I should never have an issue where the water gets low enough to make the probe out of water.
Idk maybe I'll just use leak sensors as my final failsafe.
That's fine - it's probably not important in the grand scheme of things.Sorry but I don't follow your logic. Definitely in the OPs hypothetical scenario the salinity of the tank will drop, if not caught, eventually to where the tank is almost completely fresh water. I don't see how the salinity of the water as any bearing on where the extra water goes.
Thanks for the tip.Leak sensors are never a bad idea, regardless of how many additional failsafes your already have. Just be sure to place the leak sensors on a layer of paper towel to avoid false-positive readings due to simple condensation or certain surface textures. A real leak will saturate the paper towel and set off the leak sensor.
I totally agree. Display tank won't flood even without an emergency drain. DT will run just like always.Your sump would overflow. Any fluctuates from a change in total volume effects the water level in the sump, the return chamber specifically (at least until it overflows into other chambers, and then overflows out of the sump).
How can it be potentially both, without an emergency drain? There is no extra water going into the display tank than normal
I totally agree. My leak sensors saved me a few times from various tank leaks, pipe crack, or even walking away while filling water to make up salt mix (then got distracted by a long phone call)Leak sensors are never a bad idea, regardless of how many additional failsafes your already have. Just be sure to place the leak sensors on a layer of paper towel to avoid false-positive readings due to simple condensation or certain surface textures. A real leak will saturate the paper towel and set off the leak sensor.
I totally agree. My leak sensors saved me a few times from various tank leaks, pipe crack, or even walking away while filling water to make up salt mix.
I've used these super cheap versions, that only trigger an audio alarm. Only works if you are at home and hear it.
A leak detector is useless if battery is dead, so some beep to let you know it battery-change-time.
Just last week I got a two pack of these from costco for $60 CDN.
https://ca.dlink.com/en/products/dch-s161-mydlink-wi-fi-water-sensor
The benefit is I'll get email alert (if not around) if a leak is sensed.
I'm going to try using some incredibly cheap rain sensor boards that I got off Amazon hooked up as a switch. I saw some YouTuber (I don't remember who) say that they worked reasonably well. I'll probably start off just using them for a notification instead of controlling anything, until I test them enough to have some confidence in them.
There is another option, if you have an Apex or Tank controller that can get Switch inputs.
No need for sensor board or any power to run the sensor. No need to spend money on Apex's overprice ATK kit. (just need the breakout cable).
Just an example, but I got a better quality version of the above. (Forget the brand name).
No batteries needed. It's a passive sensor. When it get's wet it's like a Push Button Switch (switch closed). When dry (switch open).
I have it hooked up to Apex (via Breakout, not ATK), and have it placed on my Tank Stand, in a way that if tank overfloods (Return Drain plugs), and water gets to it. If the Apex picks up the Closed Switch (wet), it turns off my return pump, preventing a tank overfill flood. A 2nd one could be put on the floor to stop the return pump and avoid DT getting filled with Fresh water should sump overfill with Top up Water.
I'm going to try using something similar but even cheaper
The little circuit board isn't needed though. It functionally works the same as what you posted. Water makes a connection between 2 contacts completing the switch.