ATO Redundancy Recommendations

nothing_fancy

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Hi All, I'm looking to see if anyone has any advice on ATO redundancy or "Fail Safes" Back in the day I had a float switch system that had a backup built into it and that worked alright but to me it felt clunky. This is for an all in one aquarium so space is limited. I'll describe my current system:

Im using (3) Reef Breeder Prism ATO's 2 of which (a and c) are feeding off of a 5 Gallon reservoir.
ATO-A- feeds my main aquariums sump.
ATO-B- feeds my QT out of a 1/2 gallon Jug.
ATO-C- Tops off the jug that feeds the qt.

of course if any of these sensors were to fail I would have a problem

Recently my main ATO-A pump died and I swapped that out. I plan to order the avast marine ATO as I have heard good things and I already own an avast marine product that I really like and feel like its pretty good quality for the money. I would use that for the main sump.

I have been looking at adding some optical level sensors to my apex and setting them to turn off outputs when water level goes high. Is this enough? Does anyone install a pump in their sump to send water out of the sump and back to the ATO reservoir in case of a total failure? Also does anyone have any codes for apex handy to turn off outputs when the optical sensor is engaged? Thanks!
 
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MarineandReef Jaron

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There are many ways to add redundancy but IMO the simplest and most reliable way is to add a physical float valve to your sump so that the ATO hose will be mechanically shut. Keep the valve above the normal fill level and then if the sensor malfunctions the float will shut the ATO line and stop the flow of water.

If you can drill a hole through your sump you can use one of these.

If you can't then this IceCap float uses a magnet mount.
 
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nothing_fancy

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There are many ways to add redundancy but IMO the simplest and most reliable way is to add a physical float valve to your sump so that the ATO hose will be mechanically shut. Keep the valve above the normal fill level and then if the sensor malfunctions the float will shut the ATO line and stop the flow of water.

If you can drill a hole through your sump you can use one of these.

If you can't then this IceCap float uses a magnet mount.
Thanks for the recs- This is for an all in one so the sump space in the back of the AIO is very limited I can't fit those types of float valves unfortunately
 
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Greybeard

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I, too, like mechanical float valves, but I do it the other way 'round. I use the mechanical float valve for normal ATO duties, with a high level electronic sensor just above it. Mechanical failure trips an electronic switch, shutting off incoming water with an electric ball valve, and triggering an alarm to let me know about it.

If you don't have room for a mechanical ball valve, perhaps doubled electronic switches? A 'normal' and a high level above it, catching a failure of the lower one?

The electronic switches I use are fairly compact... been using them forever without issue.

Amazon part B071ZG4Y34
 
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I, too, like mechanical float valves, but I do it the other way 'round. I use the mechanical float valve for normal ATO duties, with a high level electronic sensor just above it. Mechanical failure trips an electronic switch, shutting off incoming water with an electric ball valve, and triggering an alarm to let me know about it.

If you don't have room for a mechanical ball valve, perhaps doubled electronic switches? A 'normal' and a high level above it, catching a failure of the lower one?

The electronic switches I use are fairly compact... been using them forever without issue.

Amazon part B071ZG4Y34
Thanks for taking the time to give me that info. These look good. I suppose I could wire these to a breakout box for my apex. Is that similar to how you're working with these switches?
 

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Yes. In my case, I'm 'direct' from the RO/DI filter to the 3 use points in my system. The ATO, mixing station, and Kalk reservoir are all set up the same. Water comes in at a mechanical float valve. Normally, that's it. Float valve opens when the water is low, closes when the water is normal. An inch or so above the float valve is an electronic float switch. They're normally high and dry, and as such, quite reliable. They only close if the primary float valve fails. Each is hooked up to my Apex break out box. If any one closes, it sends me an email alert, and it powers off my electric ball valve, shutting off ALL incoming water until the issue is resolved.

The electric ball valve is only open when power is present, so a power failure to the apex shuts off incoming water as well. Always want to fail in a safe condition. I tried several different solenoid valves, and found them unreliable. The electric ball valve has been in place for several years now, and runs problem free. I test it, by manually triggering one of the three high water sensors, when I do my monthly maintenance. Works great, no problems.

Oh, I also picked up a battery powered water alarm, tossed it under my sump... just in case everything else fails. Yeah, I'm a belt and suspenders kind of a guy.

Ball valve was from Amazon, part B06XXPZHVB
 
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Haha, thanks, ya I am right there with you. Everything works great until it doesn't. Ive been fortunate enough to not have any major overflows but I did have my sump run low and dry. We thought the smell was just our heaters in the house turning on for the winter but it was in fact a burning titanium aquarium heater. Must've been burning away for at least 24 hours. Scary. Im going to install an Avast pressure sensor this weekend and see how I like that and Im going to look into your suggestions for the 2nd and third point of redundancy. Thanks again.
 

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