Automatic Water changes. It doesnt get any better then this.

[ddavies564]

Thanks. But if you don't mind, I could use some more explanation. (Please excuse my electronic nooby-ness)

So the float switch gets powered by the power supply. And gets attached to the positive part if the relay. The negative power gets split and part goes to negative relay. I'm confused about what positive power is doing.

Would something like this work? PCH-112L2MH - TE CONNECTIVITY - POWER RELAY, 12V, 5A, SPST-NO, PCB | Newark element14 US)

Could you explain what connects to what with this?

For a relay like that the coil gets a positive charge from one side and a negative from the other. The float switch is in line with the positive on the coil lead. When the float is closed it completes the circuit and send power to the coil, That energizes the coil and disconnects the nc post and opens it making it so the pump doesn't work.

I would get a nice little 5-7 amp nc solid state relay. They call them 1 form b relays, double check the load current is 5+ amps 12 volts and the input voltage is 12 volts aswell.

 

[gtbarsi]

That's not good for you. I've never had an issue. If I can't check a level once a week in a barrel next to my sump, I probably have no business in reefing. Daily or alternate daily visual inspection of equipment for proper functionality, like sumps, skimmers, pumps, socks, media reactors, etc., is how you find and correct small issues before they become big issues.

No doubt that that is ideal, however mistakes can be made and accidents happen, just take a look at Stupid Things reefers DO at least once! PLEASE Read! I have flooded a bathroom once myself, needless to say I learned from that and never did it again but things happen. I have kids and a large crazy family, I may suddenly get called away for days for one thing or another and I believe in CYA. My fish can live for 24-48 hours with out food, but the wrong 24 -48 hours with this project could leave a tank short several gallons of water that is enough to break the overflow to my sump. [h=1][/h]

 

[Swine]

That's not good for you. I've never had an issue. If I can't check a level once a week in a barrel next to my sump, I probably have no business in reefing. Daily or alternate daily visual inspection of equipment for proper functionality, like sumps, skimmers, pumps, socks, media reactors, etc., is how you find and correct small issues before they become big issues.

yikes, who didn't love you as a child?

 

[KoleTang]

yikes, who didn't love you as a child?

I don't think what he said merited this.

 

[Acroholic]

yikes, who didn't love you as a child?

You have a very appropriate screen name, I see.

 

[AquamanE]

Pull water out from the skimmer section, and put new water in the return section of the pump. It then gets mixed in the DT before going back into the sump.

Man, all these complicated setups with solenoids, timers, meh! A dual headed Masterflex peristaltic pump and a timer on your controller are all you need. The more complex you make it, the more room there is for failure.

I agree!!! KISS= keep it simple stupid!!

 

[AquamanE]

That's not good for you. I've never had an issue. If I can't check a level once a week in a barrel next to my sump, I probably have no business in reefing. Daily or alternate daily visual inspection of equipment for proper functionality, like sumps, skimmers, pumps, socks, media reactors, etc., is how you find and correct small issues before they become big issues.

I agree with Acroholics- If we cant monitor our SW bin once a week to make sure it has water, we have no business in this hobby. That or AWC is not for you. Keep hauling buckets every few weeks. If that makes you happy, AWESOME, go for it!!

 

[AquamanE]

perhaps not to protect the pump, but if do not have something to insure you have not run out of fill water you are going to be pumping out with out replacing it.

Thats a good point. Acroholic makes a valid point also. It needs to be monitored. BUT:

However. i am in the process of ordering a float switch for the SW bin. If the SW bin goes empty, my controller will shut off the AWC system. Nothing really will be lost except automatic water change.

 

[AquamanE]

Ordered my float switch from Autotopoff.com, got a used Break out box for Apex. Fail safe soon to come.

Automatic water changes now occurring daily, salinity has not budged.

This is VERY SWEET!!:clap2::laugh:

 

[ronnie]

Cool!

My pumps and tubing arrived today. Going to find some bolts tomorrow so I can tie them together. Then I'll need to run the lines to the tank and actually get the tank up and running.

 

[AquamanE]

Cool!

My pumps and tubing arrived today. Going to find some bolts tomorrow so I can tie them together. Then I'll need to run the lines to the tank and actually get the tank up and running.

Make sure to put up pics please

 

[gtbarsi]

My pumps came in from e-bay, tubing is on it's way.

First a question about the pump to anyone that has once or can comment. There appears to have been a resister or something soldered on to the the positive terminal and the outside body of the motor, the same thing appears to have been done to the negative terminal. On mine the resister or whatever got smashed to hell and they are in two or more pieces. Should I replace them or remove them? If replace can anyone tell me for sure what they were? If it is not too expensive and can be done relatively easily I will do it. I really do not want to have to fight with the seller over this.

Second, what luck have people had replacing the long bolts that hold the pump on? Can you provide details, and where you got them?

Thanks!

 

[ddavies564]

My pumps came in from e-bay, tubing is on it's way.

First a question about the pump to anyone that has once or can comment. There appears to have been a resister or something soldered on to the the positive terminal and the outside body of the motor, the same thing appears to have been done to the negative terminal. On mine the resister or whatever got smashed to hell and they are in two or more pieces. Should I replace them or remove them? If replace can anyone tell me for sure what they were? If it is not too expensive and can be done relatively easily I will do it. I really do not want to have to fight with the seller over this.

Second, what luck have people had replacing the long bolts that hold the pump on? Can you provide details, and where you got them?

Thanks!

Don't worry about the caps on the side of the motor they are there to reduce noise in case there was any other electric comment around the motor that could possible be effected. In our case there is nothing to worry about, just hook straight up to them.

What I used for bolts were 10-32 all thread cut to the right length and the used wing nuts as nuts.

 

[Sacohen]

ddavies564 are you sure about the 10-32?
The ones I got from EBay use 8-32 All thread.

 

[ronnie]

I'm planning to just take a bolt to Home Depot and use their sizing guide to figure out what I need.

 

[Sacohen]

Good idea.

 

[gtbarsi]

I'm planning to just take a bolt to Home Depot and use their sizing guide to figure out what I need.

I think I'll take the motor assembly and see how the 8-32 and 10-32 fit.

On another note when you finally assemble the pumps did you align so they all pressing down on the tube in the same spots at the same time, or did you stagger them?

Thanks again I am getting incredibly excited to get this up and running!

 

[Sacohen]

I haven't set mine up yet.

 

[ronnie]

I don't think it'll matter how they are aligned. They will turn at the same rate.

 

[ddavies564]

ddavies564 are you sure about the 10-32?
The ones I got from EBay use 8-32 All thread.

Alright yeah I couldn't remember I knew it was one of the two. 8-32 all thread is what I used.