Back in the Hobby

[Dragon52]

I've gotten back in about 3 yrs ago after being out for 15 yrs, have been in & out of the Hobby for 25-30 yrs. A lot of things have changed since I was out but the equipment has gotten considerably better. I have a 120 gal reef tank that I'm upgrading to a 185. Built the stand myself (first time I've done anything like this but the wife says it looks really good so I guess I did something right lol). The only thing that worries me is moving the fish & the few corals I have to containers then back to the new tank. New tank has to go where the 120 is now.

 

[mcarroll]

Welcome back!

This may all be obvious...

• Make sure you save every gallon of water from the old system to go into the new one.

• Make sure you have plenty of extra saltwater – as much as you can manage. This is a case where I'd have it heated up to tank temp....normally I never preheat my saltwater. You'll need it to top up the difference for the new tank, possibly for the storage containers during the transition, possibly for emergencies.

• Make sure you have at least 50% more space to stow rock and corals than you think you'll need during the transition. This is the main area of life where more is always better. :D You don't want to be forced to lay things up on each other while you're in the middle of this. Rock that's typically heavier and larger comes out last, so you won't be happy if it goes that way. ;)

• If you're using a different light system, or even just installing the old lights differently, make sure you use a light meter to get the new tank's lights as similar to the old tank as possible.

• Even if you're using the same old lights mounted in the same way, consider the differences in the tank size/depth when placing corals. It'll still be important to duplicate the old depth of the coral from the water surface.

2¢ I hope it helps! :)

 

[Dragon52]

Welcome back!

This may all be obvious...

• Make sure you save every gallon of water from the old system to go into the new one.

• Make sure you have plenty of extra saltwater – as much as you can manage. This is a case where I'd have it heated up to tank temp....normally I never preheat my saltwater. You'll need it to top up the difference for the new tank, possibly for the storage containers during the transition, possibly for emergencies.

• Make sure you have at least 50% more space to stow rock and corals than you think you'll need during the transition. This is the main area of life where more is always better. :D You don't want to be forced to lay things up on each other while you're in the middle of this. Rock that's typically heavier and larger comes out last, so you won't be happy if it goes that way. ;)

• If you're using a different light system, or even just installing the old lights differently, make sure you use a light meter to get the new tank's lights as similar to the old tank as possible.

• Even if you're using the same old lights mounted in the same way, consider the differences in the tank size/depth when placing corals. It'll still be important to duplicate the old depth of the coral from the water surface.

2¢ I hope it helps! :)

Thanks for the reply
My problem with using the old water.Rock ETC is I've had an issue with Phosphate & Nitrates (within the last 2 months) that I can't get rid of. Tried all the normal stuff. Lost some of my corals & fish after 2+ yrs of no problems.
The new tank will have fresh water/rock & sand. Using Nutra-Sea Water, Live Sand & will also add
Brightwell Aquatics MicroBacter7 to help with bacteria setup. New skimmer & UV Sterilizer should also help keep things in check.

 

[revsgirl]

Welcome back!

 

[Rick.45cal]

If you want to change out your rock and sand you can, the difference is you will have to make the containers you transfer things into a more "long term" home for awhile. I'd get a 150gallon rubbermaid water trough and just move everything (including water, excluding sand) into the trough. Set up your skimmer in there, with all of your circulation pumps, put your lights over it, and treat it like your tank, while you install, aquascape, and then cycle the tank. That way you aren't in a rush, you get what you want and all of your critters are happy because they are happy in their interim home. When their new home is ready, you can start moving stuff gradually into the new display. (Not all at once if you can avoid it). This will give the new environment time to adjust to new additions. (It may be a longer process, but you will be more successful and you will have less hiccups along the way). This way is less stress, both on you, and on all of your inhabitants.

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

Personally I always use some of my old water and more new. Like a big water change. As long as I had the same live rock.

 

[prsnlty]

Welcome back!

 

[Dragon52]

If you want to change out your rock and sand you can, the difference is you will have to make the containers you transfer things into a more "long term" home for awhile. I'd get a 150gallon rubbermaid water trough and just move everything (including water, excluding sand) into the trough. Set up your skimmer in there, with all of your circulation pumps, put your lights over it, and treat it like your tank, while you install, aquascape, and then cycle the tank. That way you aren't in a rush, you get what you want and all of your critters are happy because they are happy in their interim home. When their new home is ready, you can start moving stuff gradually into the new display. (Not all at once if you can avoid it). This will give the new environment time to adjust to new additions. (It may be a longer process, but you will be more successful and you will have less hiccups along the way). This way is less stress, both on you, and on all of your inhabitants.

I'll have to look into this.
Thanks

 

[Dragon52]

Personally I always use some of my old water and more new. Like a big water change. As long as I had the same live rock.

I've read where the Live rock & sand could actually have soaked up the Phosphate & Nitrate & that might be why I can't get rid of it with water changes & Biopellets among other things I've tried.
Thanks
I really appreciate all the info & suggestions.

 

[Bdog4u2]

Ive had my live rock for almost 20 years and my nutrients are very low.
Do you run a sump?

 

[Dragon52]

Ive had my live rock for almost 20 years and my nutrients are very low.
Do you run a sump?

Yes I do

 

[Bdog4u2]

If your using dry rock i'd put the new rock in a big container and cycle it there with strong flow and a damsel or 2. people these days dont like using live fish but i hate damselsand they are tough jerks

 

[mcarroll]

I've read where the Live rock & sand could actually have soaked up the Phosphate & Nitrate & that might be why I can't get rid of it with water changes & Biopellets among other things I've tried.
Thanks
I really appreciate all the info & suggestions.

PO4, yes.

NO3, no.

Sand I would not re-use BTW.....forgot to mention that. The critters in it won't live and it's hard to clean.....and new sand is cheap

The rock I would really try to keep.

Neither PO4 nor NO3 should be a problem under normal circumstances in a new tank, but it does depend on the actual state of the rock.

If it's pores are loaded with detritus from too much food/too little flow in the old system, then you probably want to consider pressure washing it to clean it. This can contribute unnecessary NO3 to the system at the beginning.

PO4 binds to the aragonite, but A) it can't be much and B) all growing life in the tank needs PO4.....this should rarely be a problem. Your tank should use up 100% of that PO4 as the biofilter grows in.....one good reason not to rush the initial cycle IMO....and to stock the tank very slowly.

One last BTW...

Take it easy on NO3 and PO4 removers, especially at the beginning.....zero is possible on both parameters and it's almost always harmful to your tank's ecosystem. The ocean does NOT have zero PO4.....and when you count bound PO4 (which as we know is transitional, not permanent) on the aragonite sediment, there's a huge reserve there for the reef under normal circumstances. Exhaustion of PO4 is what causes many of the bad effects of eutrophication, like bleaching and mortality, ironically. Some algae turn toxic under PO4 deprivation so as to prevent predation/extinction while they're unable to repair or reproduce.

I'm rambling!!!! :D

 

[Dragon52]

If your using dry rock i'd put the new rock in a big container and cycle it there with strong flow and a damsel or 2. people these days dont like using live fish but i hate damselsand they are tough ********

It's a combo of Life Rock & Aquaculture Reef Rock

 

[Dragon52]

PO4, yes.

NO3, no.

Sand I would not re-use BTW.....forgot to mention that. The critters in it won't live and it's hard to clean.....and new sand is cheap

The rock I would really try to keep.

Neither PO4 nor NO3 should be a problem under normal circumstances in a new tank, but it does depend on the actual state of the rock.

If it's pores are loaded with detritus from too much food/too little flow in the old system, then you probably want to consider pressure washing it to clean it. This can contribute unnecessary NO3 to the system at the beginning.

PO4 binds to the aragonite, but A) it can't be much and B) all growing life in the tank needs PO4.....this should rarely be a problem. Your tank should use up 100% of that PO4 as the biofilter grows in.....one good reason not to rush the initial cycle IMO....and to stock the tank very slowly.

One last BTW...

Take it easy on NO3 and PO4 removers, especially at the beginning.....zero is possible on both parameters and it's almost always harmful to your tank's ecosystem. The ocean does NOT have zero PO4.....and when you count bound PO4 (which as we know is transitional, not permanent) on the aragonite sediment, there's a huge reserve there for the reef under normal circumstances. Exhaustion of PO4 is what causes many of the bad effects of eutrophication, like bleaching and mortality, ironically. Some algae turn toxic under PO4 deprivation so as to prevent predation/extinction while they're unable to repair or reproduce.

I'm rambling!!!! :D

Thanks for the info, The Tank was fine for a little over 2 yrs then the Po4 & NO3 jumped real high & no matter what I tried it wouldn't go down to what I thought was decent, I used the Sera Test kits & results hit the high Color for months.