Basement Sump Advice needed.

[tdyrkacz]

Hi I'm hoping to get some advice on a new system design.

I'm in planning stages for a new system in a home i recently moved into. I'm thinking of a 180 gallon mixed reef DT (Currently considering waterbox 220.6, red sea 750 or custom planet aquariums).
I will also have a custom 93 gallon cube in another room. This one will be mostly anemones and clowns.

I want to drain both of these tanks to a basement sump. The basement is finished, but a bit cool in the winter. I have a large closet i want to convert to a fish room down there. The size of the space is 5' x 11' For a sump i am thinking of using the trigger systems platinum 39 since it has the build in roller mat. I will reuse my old skimmer i built with parts from avast marine.

Each tank will have a 1.25" drain and another 1.25" emergency drain as well as one 1.25" return. I would like to use a single Iwaki MD-70RLT to push the water to both displays. The cube will be only about 10 horizontal feet away from the sump area where as the 180 will be about 25 feet away. Both tanks are on main floor.

For lights i will likely go with latest G5 radions.

Any advice is very much appreciated. I am mostly concerned with plumbing, sump size, pump and heating in the winter, but any advice is welcome. I do plan on installing a dehumidifier if humidity becomes an issue.

 

[theMeat]

Sounds like a nice build. Good luck and please post up pics.
Think it a better plan to use one pump for each tank/return.

 

[tdyrkacz]

Sounds like a nice build. Good luck and please post up pics.
Think it a better plan to use one pump for each tank/return.

Do you make that as a general statement or based on gph for the pump I chose?

 

[ca1ore]

I’ve always built my own sumps, so not familiar with the model you cited. Just make sure it can handle both tanks. The more water you push through each, the more drain down there will be.

You can use a single pump certainly, and that Iwaki is a beast. Dual pumps give you better control and a degree of redundancy. If you already have the pump then just use it. I run a PW250 on my main tank and will be using a PW100 on a satellite.

Definately use at least dual drains. 1 1/4” is more than enough for the main siphon. You could probably get away with 1”. 1 1/2” on the emergency would be better, but 1 1/4” works if that’s what you’ve got. I use flex PVC on all my tank builds now. Makes basement runs, particularly, a lot easier.

 

[ca1ore]

Always a good idea to upsize return plumbing size when you’re dealing with higher head pressures. It makes a surprisingly significant difference. Also dispense with all that locline crap.

I have to run a dehumidifier in my fish room during the humid summer here in CT .... though I needed it even before the big tank. Have the ability to run one, though you may not have to.

As long as the basement isn’t blue-lips cold, it prob won’t make much difference. Iwaki will add some heat, which you may lament in the summer. I do run a chiller.

I’m only about an hour from you should you wish to see what I’ve done. I know some folks are reluctant to do that kind of thing at the moment. You can also check out my build thread.

 

[theMeat]

Do you make that as a general statement or based on gph for the pump I chose?

As general statement. I noticed you chose a hi pressure pump, which is the way to go. Don’t remember the specs for that model off hand. Would shoot for 3-5 times display volume for each tank.
With return pump think it’s better to be direct from pump to tank so you know how much water you are moving. Have more than one thing on a pump and each time you turn diwn flow on one item you also are increasing flow on other things. Could instal flow meters but when it comes to return pumps or uv sterilizer think a dedicated pump a better plan

 

[tdyrkacz]

I’ve always built my own sumps, so not familiar with the model you cited. Just make sure it can handle both tanks. The more water you push through each, the more drain down there will be.

You can use a single pump certainly, and that Iwaki is a beast. Dual pumps give you better control and a degree of redundancy. If you already have the pump then just use it. I run a PW250 on my main tank and will be using a PW100 on a satellite.

Definately use at least dual drains. 1 1/4” is more than enough for the main siphon. You could probably get away with 1”. 1 1/2” on the emergency would be better, but 1 1/4” works if that’s what you’ve got. I use flex PVC on all my tank builds now. Makes basement runs, particularly, a lot easier.

Thanks. I started looking at your build thread. That's a nice system.

Do you use Flex for corners only or long runs as well? What type of flex PVC and where do you buy it?

I am not married to the pump or plumbing. It's still all just an idea at this point.

 

[tdyrkacz]

perhaps i should go with 2 iwaki MD 55 RLT instead of one 70RLT

 

[theMeat]

Spa flex is great. For horizontal runs, especially long ones, pvc better

 

[Snoopy 67]

No matter which way you go put everything up on a bench. This will benefit you in more ways than you think.
It reduces head pressure but more importantly it will make your life easier when it comes to anything tank or sump related. Think back & knees , the will to actually do the work increases with functionality. With 2 tanks separate pumps would be better, if it were to fail you will have more problems than you need @ 1 time.
Remember to use union ball valves on the pumps for easier maintenance or replacement.
Sumps generally run @ about 1/2 full, do the math to see if it can accommodate your 2 tank requirements.

 

[otimer]

Hi
Nice and big system~!
Generally, you must first decide the dimensions of sump tank and water volume. Then you calculate the total net water volume (ie 350G). And you decide hourly turn-over. There are many different opinions about the turn-over i.e 3~10.
OK, you decide 5 for an example, the pump flow rate must be 350*5=1,750gph. The allowable flow rate for 1.25" sched 40 pipe is about 1,500gph for low friction loss. So the pipe size could be a little smaller. It's better you reduce the turn-over or increase the pipe size.
The pump flow rate, 1,536gph is its maximum without head hight. If the hight between dp water level and the sump water level is 10ft, the actual flow reate will be about 2/3 which is about 1,000gph. The turn-over will be 2.86 which would be too small for reef system. Please check the estimated flow rate of the pump with its flow diagram and give some allowance for plumbing friction loss.

If the temperature in the basement in cold seasons is far lower than that of the system temp, the sump must be insulated and covered with a removable lid to save energy. The lid will be also helpful to prevent the basement from high humidity.
Hope you have a good system.
Please understand I'm not an English native tongue.

Son

 

[theMeat]

Would also build my own sump. Get noise insulation pads for pumps (drill hole at right height to accommodate)
Think having water from tank go into a tank sized for skimmer, above sump, so skimmer has first chance at dirtiest water, then gravity takes it sump.
Would also have pump from sump to separate refugium. That gravity feeds back down to sump. Nice to optimize/control flow to display separate from gph in fuge. Also nice to be able to keep tank running while fuge gets cleaned, mud changed, whatever

 

[Oldcoder]

I also ran 1 1/4 flex pvc from the back of the tank all the way to just over the sump. Then converted to hard pvc. This worked great did not have trouble lining up the plumbing to attach to overflow was able to use a hole saw to cut thru the floor.
Some other things that helped:

Placed the sump on an oversized L shaped table that built. Can sit in a chair run tests plenty of work room.

Use a bigger sump. Easier to maintain mine is glass 48x20. only cost $200.

My basement is only 65 degrees year round. Here in Michigan I needed a 300 watt heater.

My Vectra L2 is a bit underpowered.

Design an plumb for a UV. Even if you don’t plan on one dry rock means dinos.

 

[tdyrkacz]

I do like the idea about the separate fuge. Would love to see what folks have used for that.

 

[theMeat]

I also ran 1 1/4 flex pvc from the back of the tank all the way to just over the sump. Then converted to hard pvc. This worked great did not have trouble lining up the plumbing to attach to overflow was able to use a hole saw to cut thru the floor.
Some other things that helped:

Placed the sump on an oversized L shaped table that built. Can sit in a chair run tests plenty of work room.

Use a bigger sump. Easier to maintain mine is glass 48x20. only cost $200.

My basement is only 65 degrees year round. Here in Michigan I needed a 300 watt heater.

My Vectra L2 is a bit underpowered.

Design an plumb for a UV. Even if you don’t plan on one dry rock means dinos.

You use a vectra L2 for basement sump?

 

[tdyrkacz]

I definitely plan on building a bench the entire length of the room except for the space where i will put a utility sink. I think i will reuse my brute cans for the water station and put them under the bench.

 

[theMeat]

I do like the idea about the separate fuge. Would love to see what folks have used for that.

Used a standard 55g tank for fuge. For sump put a 40 long in front of it with same footprint, just shorter.
Drilled a bulkhead for drain on fuge back to lower sump.
The last section of 55g fuge where drain is has bubble trap, spaced for sponge on top to keep macro in place.

 

[ca1ore]

Thanks. I started looking at your build thread. That's a nice system.

Do you use Flex for corners only or long runs as well? What type of flex PVC and where do you buy it?

I am not married to the pump or plumbing. It's still all just an idea at this point.

I bought mine from flexpvc.com

It will navigate most turns, though in a couple of cases I did spice in a 45 elbow to assist.

 

[ca1ore]

One thing to consider is elevating the sump. Mine is about 12” off the floor and I wished I’d doubled it. Helps reduce heat loss and cuts out a foot (or two) of head loss.

 

[tdyrkacz]

One thing to consider is elevating the sump. Mine is about 12” off the floor and I wished I’d doubled it. Helps reduce heat loss and cuts out a foot (or two) of head loss.

Yup. I want the sump at working height so it will be on top of a bench i'll build.