Basic Plumbing Questions

Onewolf · Sep 16, 2019

I am putting together my first saltwater tank. The plan is for the tank to be a mixed reef with soft corals and eventually some LPS. It is a 90 Gal "Reef Ready" Aqueon with a EShoppes RS-200 sump and Vectra S1 return pump. I plan to use a basic Herbie style drain and an "over the top of the tank" return line.

#1) Should I install a valve in the 'emergency' drain line? (This web site says do NOT install valve in emergency drain line: https://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/). While I know there should be no water in the emergency drain line when performing tank maintenance, it just seems strange not to have a shutoff valve on a drain line.

#2) Should I use 3/4" or 1" PVC for the return line from the Vectra S1 back to the tank? It _seems_ like 1" pipe is overkill for the Vectra S1?

#3) Should I use the double/split/Y Loc-Line outlet that was provided as a part of the Aqueon reef ready plumbing kit? It does not seem to fit very well in the overflow area of the tank (especially since I will be routing the return line outside and over the top/lip of the tank) And it blocks access to the drain plumbing). Or should I use a simple PVC (unglued?) street elbow to control the direction of the return water stream into the tank? (The first two PVC elbows going up over the tank lip and then down into the tank will definitely be glued and affixed to the tank which should ensure the return line cannot 'escape'.)

#4) Would a Skimz SS 9.0 be a reasonable choice for a powerhead (along with my existing Vortech MP10) to start out with for tank cycling and initial CUC/fish? While I foresee eventually getting a Vortech MP40 my budget would prefer a less expensive Powerhead option for now.

Thanks.

Other tank equipment:

2 Radion XR15 G4 lights
Regal 150int Protein Skimmer
IceCap ATO
Finnex 300w heater

S2G · Sep 16, 2019

1) yes I'd put a shutoff valve on my emergency but run it wide open.

2) I would reduce to 3/4" then run it over the back.

3) I would try to use the loc line myself. It will make life easier adjusting your outlet.

4) I was looking at those skimz powerheads but info on them is all over the place. Rossmont has good pricing but the ones I've seen have been loud. My recommendation is a good ole ac tunze. You can get them for under $150 and the quality is probably the best around.

Powerheads and lighting have become pretty ridiculous imo. A bunch of gimmicks to empty your wallet. Unless your full blown sps reef junkie non of that uber high dollar uber controllable equipment is remotely necessary. Put your hard earned money where it counts right now. Quality skimmer, quality ato, water change station, heater controller, and a refuge(if you want to run one)

TK_KW · Sep 16, 2019

1-absolutly no valves on emergency drain line IMO
2-I'd run 1" if you can right to bulkhead/over top, then reduce to 3/4" at that point.
3-loc line is really nice to use. Whether split wye or a single.

Onewolf · Sep 16, 2019

Thanks for the replies so far. Very helpful.

I believe that I can use a 3/4" elbow with 3/4" threaded side to install the Loc-line 'Y' fitting in the tank and have the use of two 'directable' loc-line outputs.

I will take a look at the Tunze powerheads.

link81 · Sep 16, 2019

1. no valves on emergency
2. either is fine IMO.
3. there are over the back loc line adaptors. might be the best of both worlds.
4. that ones up to you. Can also get a *gasp* jebao or 2 until you get something longer term. Can always use them somewhere else, they're cheap enough, and work well enough.

BeejReef · Sep 16, 2019

Hard to see the value in a valve on your third "true emergency" drain.
You would have to find yourself in a scenario where the DT was way overfull and nearly overflowing onto the carpet. If for some reason, you preferred your DT (and maybe fish) to overflow onto the floor instead of draining into the sump, you could close that valve.. lol.

If you want to do major sump maintenance, or need to run the DT independent of the sump for some reason, u can reduce the level in your DT to below the overflow height. Then pull your drain pipes out of the overflow (assuming you're using unglued slip fittings on the top side of your bulkheads) and all the water in the overflow will drain into the sump with no chance of any more to follow.

S2G · Sep 16, 2019

It's suppose to be for emergency but I end with a little water going thru it to work properly. So my rationale is I like to be able to shut it off as well with a "union" ball valve. You don't have to but I find it helpful when working in the sump

BeejReef · Sep 17, 2019

S2G said:
It's suppose to be for emergency but I end with a little water going thru it to work properly. So my rationale is I like to be able to shut it off as well with a "union" ball valve. You don't have to but I find it helpful when working in the sump

I get that, so long as you never, never, ever, never forget to open it again. Hours later, the tank may well overflow.
I believe the rationale for not putting a valve on it is to offer the least possible chance of obstruction.

If your main overflow has clogged or is being pushed past capacity, something is likely going on with the tank. Could be gradual precipitation, snail migration, clump of macroalgae, wandering anenome, bumped gate valve, return pump gets a second wind... whatever. Point being, there's now only one drain between you and a full on melt my pumps, soak the floors, trip the breakers style emergency. Plus, now, your water level is higher too, so greater chance of fish jumping into overflow.

The fear is that the valve reduces the drain diameter and offers a little ledge to build up sludge, or catch a fish or snail bound for the sump. Extremely unlikely, ofc. I'd think the much more likely scenario would be to forget to open it, or to remember to open it only to find it seized or have the valve handle snap off in your hand.