Best light level / feeding frequency for very-stressed corals?

[pacificdiver]

I have a candy cane that was supposedly DOA when it arrived a couple of weeks ago. The thing is, it's not dead, and seems to be mounting a comeback, with soft tissue slowly regrowing from the calcified cups. I also have a cauliflower colt, that also seemed DOA, but it too seems to be slowly improving.

My question is, do I need to do anything differently than I would for normal, healthy corals as far as light level and nutrition? I get conflicting info with regard to intensity, some saying high intensity is better, and others saying to keep it subdued. I've been keeping a Kessil A360WE at about 50% intensity, about half way between full blue and full white, hanging about 16 inches above a 20 gallon long QT, with the cauliflower near the top of the tank, and the candy cane at the bottom. I've also been feeding every 3rd day with targeted feeding of Reef Snow.

Does this sound like a reasonable care regimen, or should I be dialing light up or down? Feeding more or less frequently? I'm determined to bring these things back, and I'm brand new to keeping corals so I don't have much to go on for experience.

 

[mcarroll]

Intensity should closely match what they were acclimated to before you got them. (Anyone with a smartphone should be able to get some readings for you.)

I don't know what reef snow is, so I can't comment if it'll work.

If there are no polyp tentacles showing, it'll be hard or impossible for them to catch any particulate food.

What are your NO3 and PO4 levels? PO4 is crucial during light adaptation and during periods of stress generally. You want some available NO3 an PO4 at all times. Decent levels would be ≥0.10 ppm PO4 and ≥5-10 ppm NO3.

NO3 and PO4 are very likely more important to the coral than food right now.

If you have very low or zero on either value, then get some supplements and begin dosing asap.\

2¢

 

[pacificdiver]

Intensity should closely match what they were acclimated to before you got them. (Anyone with a smartphone should be able to get some readings for you.)

I don't know what reef snow is, so I can't comment if it'll work.

If there are no polyp tentacles showing, it'll be hard or impossible for them to catch any particulate food.

What are your NO3 and PO4 levels? PO4 is crucial during light adaptation and during periods of stress generally. You want some available NO3 an PO4 at all times. Decent levels would be ≥0.10 ppm PO4 and ≥5-10 ppm NO3.

NO3 and PO4 are very likely more important to the coral than food right now.

If you have very low or zero on either value, then get some supplements and begin dosing asap.\

2¢

Can't thank you enough for the input regarding N03 and P04. They're both at zero, so I'll begin dosing immediately. I was actually considering putting phosguard in the QT, so I'm glad to know that would probably not be a good idea. Both have tentacles showing, but the candy cane only extends at night, while the cauliflower extends pretty much 24 hr/day.

Thanks again.

 

[mcarroll]

Both have tentacles showing, but the candy cane only extends at night, while the cauliflower extends pretty much 24 hr/day.

Something like @Reef Nutrition ROE would be a great thing to dose the tank with while they are extended! Perhaps something as large as Arcti Pods if you think the corals will grab them.