Bleaching corals...is this too much light

RyanN

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I upgraded from a 29 gallon biocube to a JBJ 45 gallon around Thanksgiving this year and quite a few of my corals are bleaching slowly. I went from 1 light on my 29 to 2 lights on the 45 and I'm wondering if maybe I overestimated the amount of light needed. All the corals are under more water than they were in the biocube but that probably doesn't reduce the par too much? I do not have a par meter. Corals that are bleaching are a tubbs stellata monti, Miami hurricane chalice, space invader chalice another chalice and some cyphastrea. Nothing is white but it's definitely losing color. Today I raised the lights about 6 inches to see if that helps at all. Does it look like I have these set too high? Come on at noon and off at 8. Thanks!

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my86iroc01

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I upgraded from a 29 gallon biocube to a JBJ 45 gallon around Thanksgiving this year and quite a few of my corals are bleaching slowly. I went from 1 light on my 29 to 2 lights on the 45 and I'm wondering if maybe I overestimated the amount of light needed. All the corals are under more water than they were in the biocube but that probably doesn't reduce the par too much? I do not have a par meter. Corals that are bleaching are a tubbs stellata monti, Miami hurricane chalice, space invader chalice another chalice and some cyphastrea. Nothing is white but it's definitely losing color. Today I raised the lights about 6 inches to see if that helps at all. Does it look like I have these set too high? Come on at noon and off at 8. Thanks!

Screenshot_20230112-190003.png
Check your nutrient levels. That can cause bleaching too
 

KrisReef

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Without a picture, this "bleaching" could easily be just faster growth (more white than color) in the skeletons vs a negative "bleaching" event. Turning down the light period is a safe thing in most cases but without pictures my precious advice could be totally wrong (again!)

We need pictures or for better prognoises ;)

Edit: I once mentioned to my wife that I could grow coral more successfully if I had a par meter. To my surprize she answerered: "Get one then!" I had one delivered a few days later and she was surprized how much they cost but now she knows the par under our lights. Very helpful ! :)
 
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CoralB

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What KrisReef said :cool:Not knowing all other parameters and even if lighting schedule is good means nothing if there was a sudden change in the amount of lighting intensity .
 

bushdoc

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It is possible to bleach corals with AI Prime ( I did it), but it usually takes just few days, not months. I would look for other causes too (water quality). Loosing color might be trace element or nutrition issue.
 
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RyanN

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I will get a picture later today. Been battling a bit of cyanobacteria for a while and I believe diatoms. Here are my parameters.
Alk - 8 (checked frequently)
PH - 8.2
Calcium - 400
Magnesium -1350
Salinity 1.025
PO4 - 0.02 (Hanna) I've been trying to raise this
Nitrate - 5

I only have 2 fish so low nutrient input. I want more fish but my clowns have been the only fish for almost 2 years so they're jerks :). I know this low fish load might be part of the issue. I dose nitrates and have been feeding "reef blizzard" hoping it will add some phosphates. I dose 20 ml of all for reef per day.
 

Duffer

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Get rid of the green on the light will promote algae. Also I would turn down your whites.
What are your parameters?
 
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RyanN

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Get rid of the green on the light will promote algae. Also I would turn down your whites.
What are your parameters?
I just posted parameters the same time you posted this, see above. I turned the whites down to try and help with the cyanobacteria. I turned the whites down maybe 2 weeks ago.
 

DanyL

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Hey Ryan,

Your Calcium is slightly low, it's not enough to be the root cause of the symptoms you've been experiencing, but it may contribute to the problem. I would bump it to around 420-450 regardless.

All other parameters seem to be fine, so I would agree with your suspicion of too much light to be the cause of these symptoms.

The thing with Cyphastrea and Chalices is that they are low PAR (100-ish) corals which are able adapt to higher PAR (200-ish) as well, but it needs to be done slowley. They also don't seem to react well to changes in spectrum.
This is the reason why when I'm getting a new Chalices/Cyphastreas or other low PAR corals I would first place them in a slightly shaded area, then slowly over a months period (sometimes more) I would move them towards a more lighten area.

In your situation, due to the fact that you transferred from a different tank and added a second fixture, I would do a full acclimation for around 3 to 5 weeks, it would make sure all corals are adapted to their new environment.

Good Luck.
 

Widdlyscudds

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Get rid of the green on the light will promote algae. Also I would turn down your whites.
What are your parameters?
depends on the algae, green colored algae can't absorb green light, same with most terrestrial plants that are green from photosynthesizing.
 

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