Bringing Nitrates Down

[Fishlover56]

Hi there,

My tank has been left a bit due to life issues. However I am getting back on top of everything again.

I did do a recent post on how I could expand my tank and getting my first corals.

But the limiting factors is my Nitrate. I have been getting around 25ppm - 50ppm on the Salifert kit and 30ppm on the API version.

I have so far done 3 10% water changes on my tank over the last two weeks. My tank is 34gal or 130litre

I am running a protein skimmer and a hob filter as my main filtration system.

I was looking at NoPox however when I tested my Phosphate levels surprisingly I got around 0.03ppm, Which is in range as far as I am aware.

Other factors below if that helps

Stock
Pair of clowns
Pair of Pyjama Cardinals
Silver belly wrasse
Ruby fin wrasse
Bicolour blenny

3 Turbo Trochus snails
6 Blue leg hermits

Parameters
Ammonia/Nitrite 0
PH: 8.0
Sal: 1.025
Temp 25c-25.5c

I am aware my stocking is quite a bit on the overstock size and in a few months I am due to be upgrading when I move to a bigger home.

Edit: Forgot to add my sand bed is about 2-3inches deep pushing 4 in some areas and I have about 16kg of what was dry rock when I started

Thank you in advance

 

[Fish Fan]

Your nitrate is fine for the majority of corals, in my opinion. I follow the guidelines from Randy Holmes-Farley at this link:

Randy’s Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges

Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges by Randy Holmes-Farley Almost nothing in the world of reef aquarium chemistry causes as much discussion as selecting and maintaining ranges for nitrate and phosphate. Some aquarists want low targets, some want...

www.reef2reef.com

From the above link Randy writes:

"4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:

• Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
• Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
• Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
• Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
• Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up."

I hope this helps!

 

[Justfebreezeit]

Those nitrates aren't bad

Though doing bigger water changes for nitrate reduction is better. One 30% change is much better at reducing nitrate than 3 10% changes

 

[Reef Jedi]

Nitrates are not super bad however if you really want to make a dent in the nitrates a 30-50% water change will be more effective.

 

[Fishlover56]

Thank you all for the help I think I am going to read Randy Holmes-Farley guide and do a one of 50% water change. Then i might have a look at some beginner corals! I was looking at GSP as I do like the looks however I will have to keep it isolated on a rock.

 

[Reef Jedi]

Thank you all for the help I think I am going to read Randy Holmes-Farley guide and do a one of 50% water change. Then i might have a look at some beginner corals! I was looking at GSP as I do like the looks however I will have to keep it isolated on a rock.

It’s a great starter and even after 23 years I still like it. But yes, keep it isolated.