Bulk DI vs Pro Mixed Bed DI?

TheEngineer

Formerly icecool2
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I need to replace my DI resin soon and I'm trying to decide between the bulk DI resin and the pro mixed bed DI resin. I honestly have no idea what the difference is, except one is purple :)

Can you help point me towards which I should use? I have high CO2, but I degas my RO water before passing into the DI. My RO comes out at under 5 TDS so I don't exhaust it fast that way, thankfully!
 
I need to replace my DI resin soon and I'm trying to decide between the bulk DI resin and the pro mixed bed DI resin. I honestly have no idea what the difference is, except one is purple :) Can you help point me towards which I should use? I have high CO2, but I degas my RO water before passing into the DI. My RO comes out at under 5 TDS so I don't exhaust it fast that way, thankfully!

Hey there! I think @Ryanbrs explains it best in these two BRStv Investigates videos where he addresses what each resin does and how it performs against a variety of contaminants and hurdles like excess CO2.

Along with that, keep your eyes peeled here on R2R and on our YouTube channel for a new Spotlight DI resin video which will specifically address the question of which one you may need for your water source. It's coming very soon! ;)



 
Thanks. I think the answer to my question is at 12:30 in that first video. (I rewatched it :)) The difference is in the blue, the anion is the color changing bead and in the purple the cation is the color changing bead. For now since I'm just running single stage, I'm going to stick with the blue stuff. I do want to add another stage at some point, but not just yet.
 
For what it's worth, I switched to the triple threat, the single bed cation, single bed anion, and mixed bed cation indicator (in that order). Several months in, the cation and mixed bed have almost no color change whatsoever, while the anion resin is almost half depleted. For some reason, it's really satisfying to know that only the resin that is needed is getting used, and that I'm not throwing out good cation resin just because the color-changing anion resin is depleted.
 
For what it's worth, I switched to the triple threat, the single bed cation, single bed anion, and mixed bed cation indicator (in that order). Several months in, the cation and mixed bed have almost no color change whatsoever, while the anion resin is almost half depleted. For some reason, it's really satisfying to know that only the resin that is needed is getting used, and that I'm not throwing out good cation resin just because the color-changing anion resin is depleted.
Thanks for sharing. I'm planning to add the extra DI stages next time I do my filter swap.
 

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