Center brace is in the way

[drezden88]

I'm building a stand for my 180 gallon planet internal overflow. This is how far i got before i realized the center vertical brace is in the way. It was my understanding that the corners carry the weight. The center just prevents racking. Would I be fine removing just the back vertical leg? I'm open to other suggestions. The top frame with match exactly with the bottom frame as far as layout goes.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Wow! You're going to need some muscle boys from your local gym to move that thing. I know because my dimensional stand was real heavy. I used @RocketEngineer 's design for my stand, and if I remember correctly, if you use a 2x6 top frame, no center brace is needed. Hopefully he'll check in or if I find his post where he talks about what's needed, I edit it in.

EDIT TO ADD: Just found Rocket's post HERE. According to this post, your top frame should be 2x8 to eliminate the center braces. I now wonder if you double up 2x6's that would be enough.

 

[Fish Fan]

If you go by Rocket Engineer's stand calculator, you might want to use 2x8's for the horizontal rails if you don't want a center brace. You can also make the center brace removable

Here's RE's stand calculator thread:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/basic-diy-stand-calculator.1138386/
From the above:
"(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length:
- 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g)
- 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable
- 2X8 recommended for longer spans and larger tanks"

Good luck!

 

[drezden88]

If you go by Rocket Engineer's stand calculator, you might want to use 2x8's for the horizontal rails if you don't want a center brace. You can also make the center brace removable

Here's RE's stand calculator thread:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/basic-diy-stand-calculator.1138386/
From the above:
"(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length:
- 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g)
- 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable
- 2X8 recommended for longer spans and larger tanks"

Good luck!

When you say horizontal rails you're talking about the red ones in his thread. If so thats great news as i haven't started on the top frame yet!

 

[Fish Fan]

When you say horizontal rails you're talking about the red ones in his thread. If so thats great news as i haven't started on the top frame yet!

Yes, that's correct

 

[drezden88]

Yes, that's correct

Thanks for the help this is my first "big" tank in the 20 years ive been reefing and worried about the stand not being correct with all the weight then the wife yanking me out of the hobby.

 

[oreo54]

I'm building a stand for my 180 gallon planet internal overflow. This is how far i got before i realized the center vertical brace is in the way. It was my understanding that the corners carry the weight. The center just prevents racking. Would I be fine removing just the back vertical leg? I'm open to other suggestions. The top frame with match exactly with the bottom frame as far as layout goes.

Until someone corrects me.. I believe you are just contemplating a single (per side) center brace to get you the depth (front/back) needed. Heck throw a big glob of waterproof glue in for good measure
So if you pocket screw as well as add galvanized plates that should fulfill the downward thrust fix.
Your racking should be covered by your sheeting.

If you have enough height a 2x2 (2x4) across the top of the 2 center braces will work but it will be attached in the end grain. More glue.. Want to get fancy, use dowels. Will keep them from spreading, not that they would without it
Just don't let it protrude from the top.
But easier to just change to a 2x8. Of course your "hole" is now smaller.
Though it probably wouldn't fit anyways sistered 2x6's aren't quite the same thing as a wider board.

 

[drezden88]

Until someone corrects me.. I believe you are just contemplating a single (per side) center brace to get you the depth (front/back) needed. Heck throw a big glob of waterproof glue in for good measure
So if you pocket screw as well as add galvanized plates that should fulfill the downward thrust fix.
Your racking should be covered by your sheeting.

If you have enough height a 2x2 (2x4) across the top of the 2 center braces will work but it will be attached in the end grain. More glue.. Want to get fancy, use dowels. Will keep them from spreading, not that they would without it
Just don't let it protrude from the top.
But easier to just change to a 2x8. Of course your "hole" is now smaller.
Though it probably wouldn't fit anyways sistered 2x6's aren't quite the same thing as a wider board.

I've decided to try use a 1x6 to sister to the center brace. The holes are 3 in from the rim of the tank and going 1 by I should have .75 to an inch of space to get my PVC pipe in. Then I'll use a 45 to get away from the board for my unions and gate valve.

 

[Apotack]

Can you shift the center brace a little off center for clearance. Or split the brace into two narrower braces to let the pipe go in between?

 

[Freenow54]

I'm building a stand for my 180 gallon planet internal overflow. This is how far i got before i realized the center vertical brace is in the way. It was my understanding that the corners carry the weight. The center just prevents racking. Would I be fine removing just the back vertical leg? I'm open to other suggestions. The top frame with match exactly with the bottom frame as far as layout goes.

As far as I am concerned the load is distributed evenly in a downward force ie gravity . I can see the use for center braces for this . However the size of the top horizontal piece determines a lot to me also have you considered angle bracing from the top horizontal rail to the vertical corner braces. It would " spread " the load from the center to the ends . To me the main load is in the center . The top cover would serve to spread the load as well . ( 3/4 ply } for the top. To me the inside braces on the bottom serve no load bearing purpose at all

 

[BeanAnimal]

Wow! You're going to need some muscle boys from your local gym to move that thing. I know because my dimensional stand was real heavy. I used @RocketEngineer 's design for my stand, and if I remember correctly, if you use a 2x6 top frame, no center brace is needed. Hopefully he'll check in or if I find his post where he talks about what's needed, I edit it in.

EDIT TO ADD: Just found Rocket's post HERE. According to this post, your top frame should be 2x8 to eliminate the center braces. I now wonder if you double up 2x6's that would be enough.

I am not where I can do the math, but my site has a beam deflection calculator and an article explaining the math.

 

[BeanAnimal]

As far as I am concerned the load is distributed evenly in a downward force ie gravity . I can see the use for center braces for this . However the size of the top horizontal piece determines a lot to me also have you considered angle bracing from the top horizontal rail to the vertical corner braces. It would " spread " the load from the center to the ends . To me the main load is in the center . The top cover would serve to spread the load as well . ( 3/4 ply } for the top. To me the inside braces on the bottom serve no load bearing purpose at all

The load distribution by the plywood can be calculated, but here it is not going to be a lot.

The bottom braces may not be needed to carry the tank, but they will carry the sump and help to spread both the tank, sump and stand load over more of the floor under them.

 

[BeanAnimal]

https://beananimal.com/tools/beam-calculators-second-moment-and-deflection/