Chaeto lighting

Lavabrine ninja

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I'm thinking about getting an aquaclear to move the chaeto into to grow and get out of the display tank. What are some good light recommendations for chaeto and red gracilaria I got both and wanna keep em happy.
 

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I've read that but I've heard alot of people saying the chaeto is melting or just isn't growing
A lot of people put in a macro refugium early after tank cycle. It doesn’t work well when done like that. Too many don’t give necessary details about why it didn’t work.

I'm thinking about getting an aquaclear to move the chaeto into to grow and get out of the display tank. What are some good light recommendations for chaeto and red gracilaria I got both and wanna keep em happy.
How are you keeping them happy now? Also, red Gracilaria is very vague as there are many red Gracilaria species each with differrent requirements. For instance, if we are talking about Gracilaria Parvispora, you don’t want to mix them, because Gracilaria Parvispora requires intense light and Chaetomorphy will live in most any light.



 

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I've read that but I've heard alot of people saying the chaeto is melting or just isn't growing
that has more to do with a lack of available nutrients and trace elements than lighting.
user buys chaeto, has explosive growth initially leading to the user feeling a great sense of accomplishment, a month later when everything is exhausted from the system the growth stalls and the die-off begins.
Being i run a refugium as part of my nutrient management i've had to buy supplements to keep macroalgae happy and the occasional ICP test might not be a bad plan either.
 

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I'm thinking about getting an aquaclear to move the chaeto into to grow and get out of the display tank. What are some good light recommendations for chaeto and red gracilaria I got both and wanna keep em happy.
What is your purpose to grow macro in a hob?

I asked the wrong person this question. I tried looking thru your threads to better understand your question. Are you presently growing Chaeto in your display and now you wish to use an Aquaclear HOB.
 
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A lot of people put in a macro refugium early after tank cycle. It doesn’t work well when done like that. Too many don’t give necessary details about why it didn’t work.


How are you keeping them happy now? Also, red Gracilaria is very vague as there are many red Gracilaria species each with differrent requirements. For instance, if we are talking about Gracilaria Parvispora, you don’t want to mix them, because Gracilaria Parvispora requires intense light and Chaetomorphy will live in most any light.



Rn I'm keeping both in a intank cage made of 1x1 egg crates to keep it away from tangs and it's under a 100w nicrew light. I both on the 25 of March and red gracilaria is doing really good but the chaeto has a bit of a clear color to it.
 

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What is your purpose to grow macro in a hob?

I asked the wrong person this question. I tried looking thru your threads to better understand your question. Are you presently growing Chaeto in your display and now you wish to use an Aquaclear HOB.
Yes I wanna move it to a HOB aquaclear since I cant get a sump and yes its growing in the display in a 1x1 egg crate cage
 
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that has more to do with a lack of available nutrients and trace elements than lighting.
user buys chaeto, has explosive growth initially leading to the user feeling a great sense of accomplishment, a month later when everything is exhausted from the system the growth stalls and the die-off begins.
Being i run a refugium as part of my nutrient management i've had to buy supplements to keep macroalgae happy and the occasional ICP test might not be a bad plan either.
The tanks been cycled for over a year so nutrients wont be a problem
 

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that has more to do with a lack of available nutrients and trace elements than lighting.
user buys chaeto, has explosive growth initially leading to the user feeling a great sense of accomplishment, a month later when everything is exhausted from the system the growth stalls and the die-off begins.
Being i run a refugium as part of my nutrient management i've had to buy supplements to keep macroalgae happy and the occasional ICP test might not be a bad plan either.

kudos to this post.

@Lavabrine ninja
Just because your tank is one year young, does not mean it has enough nutrients to grow a lot of macro algae on a sustained basis. It depends on how much you feed your tank on a sustained basis. I find it necessary to add ammonia and ChaetoGrow to keep up with nutrient demand of macro algae. It’s a lot cleaner than excess food. After 50 years of Reefing, I have chosen to focus’s on ornamental seaweed mixed garden lagoons, so on my 25 year young 75G display tank, the 30G EcoSystem mud/macro refugium became a cryptic refugium, the Jaubert Plenum with 6” dsb became a reverse flow undergravel filter became a 2” aroggonite substrate. This tank is a mixed garden of sponges, Bryozones and multi colors of corraline algae on Gulf Live Rock.

Depending on what fish are in your display, consider ornamental seaweed in your tank. I prefer reds & greens.

I set up two ornamental seaweed tanks less than 1 year ago. Both are skimmerless & sumpless. The 30G has much less light and is growing Bortacladia and Caulerpa Prolifera. The Algae Blennie nibbles on both yet it grows faster than he eats. The 55G tank has more light with a lower light end with Bortacladia and a higher light end with Caulerpa Paspoidies & Caulerpa Prolifera. If I allow nitrogen limitation, Caulerpa Paspoidies will go sexual. Note: that in this tank, both Hippo Tang & Algae Blennie graze heavily on all macros, yet the can’t mow it down as it was growing thick before I added grazing fish.

Twenty five year old tank has a large Hippo and Algae Blennie that are voracious grazers of ornamental & utilitarian macro. They keep feather Caulerpa grazed down to a sprout. The Red Macro, Gracilaria Hayi is lightly calcified and nobody bothers it except occasional Asterina starfish,

I grow Gracilaria Parvispora in a 20G monoculture with 100W of 6500 Kevin lighting. I eat it as specialty salads and spicy ceviche. I also feed it to the Hippos when they are hungry..

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
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This light is excellent and inexpensive (it’s what I use), I harvest a half full grocery bag once a week out of my HOB refugium:
https://www.amazon.com/ACKE-Lights-...ocphy=1016202&hvtargid=pla-319250133802&psc=1
I would also recommend getting a HOB refugium over modding an aqua clear. Mostly because the body of even the larger aquaclears aren’t very big and because even at the lowest flow setting it’s still way, way too much flow for a refugium. I ran a modded aqua clear years ago, and compared to the HOB refugium I have now, it was pitiful. I have the Fijicube Large, and I have nothing bad to say about it, but there are other options out there that would likely be just as good (the reason I went with the Fijicube is that it was the only one that would fit my tank, and also because it has a place to mount a light). But anyway, the ACKE light is excellent.
 
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Lavabrine ninja

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kudos to this post.

@Lavabrine ninja
Just because your tank is one year young, does not mean it has enough nutrients to grow a lot of macro algae on a sustained basis. It depends on how much you feed your tank on a sustained basis. I find it necessary to add ammonia and ChaetoGrow to keep up with nutrient demand of macro algae. It’s a lot cleaner than excess food. After 50 years of Reefing, I have chosen to focus’s on ornamental seaweed mixed garden lagoons, so on my 25 year young 75G display tank, the 30G EcoSystem mud/macro refugium became a cryptic refugium, the Jaubert Plenum with 6” dsb became a reverse flow undergravel filter became a 2” aroggonite substrate. This tank is a mixed garden of sponges, Bryozones and multi colors of corraline algae on Gulf Live Rock.

Depending on what fish are in your display, consider ornamental seaweed in your tank. I prefer reds & greens.

I set up two ornamental seaweed tanks less than 1 year ago. Both are skimmerless & sumpless. The 30G has much less light and is growing Bortacladia and Caulerpa Prolifera. The Algae Blennie nibbles on both yet it grows faster than he eats. The 55G tank has more light with a lower light end with Bortacladia and a higher light end with Caulerpa Paspoidies & Caulerpa Prolifera. If I allow nitrogen limitation, Caulerpa Paspoidies will go sexual. Note: that in this tank, both Hippo Tang & Algae Blennie graze heavily on all macros, yet the can’t mow it down as it was growing thick before I added grazing fish.

Twenty five year old tank has a large Hippo and Algae Blennie that are voracious grazers of ornamental & utilitarian macro. They keep feather Caulerpa grazed down to a sprout. The Red Macro, Gracilaria Hayi is lightly calcified and nobody bothers it except occasional Asterina starfish,

I grow Gracilaria Parvispora in a 20G monoculture with 100W of 6500 Kevin lighting. I eat it as specialty salads and spicy ceviche. I also feed it to the Hippos when they are hungry..

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
Last time I tested which was yesterday my nitrates where high. 50 or more nitrates
 
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This light is excellent and inexpensive (it’s what I use), I harvest a half full grocery bag once a week out of my HOB refugium:
https://www.amazon.com/ACKE-Lights-...ocphy=1016202&hvtargid=pla-319250133802&psc=1
I would also recommend getting a HOB refugium over modding an aqua clear. Mostly because the body of even the larger aquaclears aren’t very big and because even at the lowest flow setting it’s still way, way too much flow for a refugium. I ran a modded aqua clear years ago, and compared to the HOB refugium I have now, it was pitiful. I have the Fijicube Large, and I have nothing bad to say about it, but there are other options out there that would likely be just as good (the reason I went with the Fijicube is that it was the only one that would fit my tank, and also because it has a place to mount a light). But anyway, the ACKE light is excellent.
I do plan on getting an aquaclear hob anyways
 
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This light is excellent and inexpensive (it’s what I use), I harvest a half full grocery bag once a week out of my HOB refugium:
https://www.amazon.com/ACKE-Lights-Spectrum-Lights,Growing-Hydropoincs/dp/B01LX1EO3W/ref=asc_df_B01LXEO3W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1466769175510577150&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016202&hvtargid=pla-319250133802&psc=1
I would also recommend getting a HOB refugium over modding an aqua clear. Mostly because the body of even the larger aquaclears aren’t very big and because even at the lowest flow setting it’s still way, way too much flow for a refugium. I ran a modded aqua clear years ago, and compared to the HOB refugium I have now, it was pitiful. I have the Fijicube Large, and I have nothing bad to say about it, but there are other options out there that would likely be just as good (the reason I went with the Fijicube is that it was the only one that would fit my tank, and also because it has a place to mount a

Mosthink LED Grow Light for Indoor Plants, 20W Plant Grow Light Strips with Auto On / Off Timer , 48 LEDs /4 Dimmable Levels, Light Bars for Gardening Seedlings Greenhouse​

What about this light is it any good?
 

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kudos to this post.

@Lavabrine ninja
Just because your tank is one year young, does not mean it has enough nutrients to grow a lot of macro algae on a sustained basis. It depends on how much you feed your tank on a sustained basis. I find it necessary to add ammonia and ChaetoGrow to keep up with nutrient demand of macro algae. It’s a lot cleaner than excess food. After 50 years of Reefing, I have chosen to focus’s on ornamental seaweed mixed garden lagoons, so on my 25 year young 75G display tank, the 30G EcoSystem mud/macro refugium became a cryptic refugium, the Jaubert Plenum with 6” dsb became a reverse flow undergravel filter became a 2” aroggonite substrate. This tank is a mixed garden of sponges, Bryozones and multi colors of corraline algae on Gulf Live Rock.

Depending on what fish are in your display, consider ornamental seaweed in your tank. I prefer reds & greens.

I set up two ornamental seaweed tanks less than 1 year ago. Both are skimmerless & sumpless. The 30G has much less light and is growing Bortacladia and Caulerpa Prolifera. The Algae Blennie nibbles on both yet it grows faster than he eats. The 55G tank has more light with a lower light end with Bortacladia and a higher light end with Caulerpa Paspoidies & Caulerpa Prolifera. If I allow nitrogen limitation, Caulerpa Paspoidies will go sexual. Note: that in this tank, both Hippo Tang & Algae Blennie graze heavily on all macros, yet the can’t mow it down as it was growing thick before I added grazing fish.

Twenty five year old tank has a large Hippo and Algae Blennie that are voracious grazers of ornamental & utilitarian macro. They keep feather Caulerpa grazed down to a sprout. The Red Macro, Gracilaria Hayi is lightly calcified and nobody bothers it except occasional Asterina starfish,

I grow Gracilaria Parvispora in a 20G monoculture with 100W of 6500 Kevin lighting. I eat it as specialty salads and spicy ceviche. I also feed it to the Hippos when they are hungry..

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
Crazy cool set ups and to think you only have 50 years of experience.
 

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