Closed up green bta

[vetteguy53081]

Day light... Do I need a reef light or some kind of full spectrum lighting

Pics seem to be lacking blue spectrum needed for production of zooxanthellae

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Pics seem to be lacking blue spectrum needed for production of zooxanthellae

You do not need full reef spectrum for cipro treatment. See Orion’s thread about treatment for reference.

 

[airedwin]

Pics seem to be lacking blue spectrum needed for production of zooxanthellae

Ya, it's in hospital tank. I read in one of the threads that when they are sick the zooxanthellae die off anyway? So don't need as much light? I dunno... new to this.

 

[Casket_Case]

…

 

[airedwin]

Well Steve isn’t, listen to him

Ya, I did. I just have a 60W bulb for about 6 hours. I added cipro today. I only did a 20% water change since I wasn't sure. But tomorrow I will do more.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ya, it's in hospital tank. I read in one of the threads that when they are sick the zooxanthellae die off anyway? So don't need as much light? I dunno... new to this.

They are not fans of changes in salinity and light. Hospital tank may not be its happy place. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temp between 77and 80°F
• pH : 8.1 to 8.3
• Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
• Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.

 

[airedwin]

They are not fans of changes in salinity and light. Hospital tank may not be its happy place. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temp between 77and 80°F
• pH : 8.1 to 8.3
• Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
• Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.

Thanks. It was already looking pretty bad for about 2 weeks before I put him in the hospital tank. I will see what happens in the next few days. I will say his condition seems to have gotten worse since, but I am treating with cipro now.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Just follow this by @OrionN as this is the best chance for the nem, as everything points to a bacterial infection.

Protocol for using antibiotics to treat infected anemones

This is a re-post of what I wrote in ReefCentral on 3/09/2013 Many anemone keepers know, the collection and shipping process from ocean to local fish store (LFS) is a stressful event. Most host anemones do not survive this process without help, especially H. magnifica and S. gigantea. Other...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[airedwin]

Just follow this by @OrionN as this is the best chance for the nem, as everything points to a bacterial infection.

Protocol for using antibiotics to treat infected anemones

This is a re-post of what I wrote in ReefCentral on 3/09/2013 Many anemone keepers know, the collection and shipping process from ocean to local fish store (LFS) is a stressful event. Most host anemones do not survive this process without help, especially H. magnifica and S. gigantea. Other...

www.reef2reef.com

Yes I am. Should I be worried about the same infection in my other two nems in the display tank?

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Yes I am. Should I be worried about the same infection in my other two nems in the display tank?

If they are not showing signs, I would say no for now. That nem could have been wild caught and your other nems were not. A lot of times this is the issue, since wild nems are not conditioned to life in our tanks like splits from a long established nem.

 

[airedwin]

If they are not showing signs, I would say no for now. That nem could have been wild caught and your other nems were not. A lot of times this is the issue, since wild nems are not conditioned to life in our tanks like splits from a long established nem.

I'll keep an eye on them. They seemed fine although today one of them closed up =/ but I think they usually do that at night time.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

I'll keep an eye on them. They seemed fine although today one of them closed up =/ but I think they usually do that at night time.

Almost all of my bta close at night. And usually just as the lights start to ramp down.
Just watch for deflation during the day, numerous limp tentacles and a gaping mouth. If they start to do that, they may require treatment.

 

[airedwin]

Almost all of my bta close at night. And usually just as the lights start to ramp down.
Just watch for deflation during the day, numerous limp tentacles and a gaping mouth. If they start to do that, they may require treatment.

Oh ok good. Thanks.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

And just for reference. I have rbta in my macro tank. So do not worry about the bulb you are using. I am using LED 5000k grow lights and the nems do fine. Granted mine is higher wattage, but for treatment, so not let that bother you. White light contains all spectrums.

Flow was off for pic, so tents are just laid out.

 

[airedwin]

And just for reference. I have rbta in my macro tank. So do not worry about the bulb you are using. I am using LED 5000k grow lights and the nems do fine. Granted mine is higher wattage, but for treatment, so not let that bother you. White light contains all spectrums.

Flow was off for pic, so tents are just laid out.

I see, cool.