Closed up zoas in QT: Furan-2 or into Display?

Closed up zoas in QT: Furan-2 or into Display?

  • Treat 3 not-fully-open frags with Furan-2

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Treat 2 open frags with Furan-2

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Put 5 "healthy" frags in display

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Put 2 closed frags in display

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Toss the 2 closed frags

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

pseudorand

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I have 7 zoa frags in QT:
  • 2 have been closed for over a month (source: local reefer)
  • 3 don't seem to fully open, but aren't as closed as the others. They're closed in the photos, but they're extended and will be more open later in the day. (Source: TSA/online)
  • 2 open fully and seem fine (Source: TSA/online)
zoas_unhealthy.jpg
zoas_healthyish.jpg

(Yes, that's an aptasia in the background, but I see none on the frags.)

All 7 frags got a CoralRx and Bayer dip before entering QT tank. The only thing I've ever seen on the frags is GHA and a small bit of bubble algae. I've dipped in H2O2 twice and removed all algae from all frags with a makeup brush as best as I can. No change in the condition. Additional details here.

Until yesterday, they shared a tank with 27 other frags (non zoas), all of which were doing fine. Yesterday was 45 days in QT for everything, but I didn't put the zoas in DT because they're not looking great. Before yesterday, the tank was pretty high flow for montis and an acro. I've turned off the powerheads now that those frags are in DT, so they now only have a HOB filter for flow. We'll see if that makes a difference. I've also had carbon in the filter for about 3 weeks in case the other frags were excercising chemical warfare.

I don't see zoa pox, which, as I understand it, are white dots on the flesh. I did see one that had something similar, but it was on the fully open Bloodsuckers (back right in photo). However, I'm considering a Furan-2 treatment because I've tried everything else I know of. I'm also considering just putting them in the display tank under the hypothesis that my QT sucks and they'll get better in a more established environment.

What should I do? (see poll).

Params:
SG: 1.026
Temp: 78
Ammonia: 0 (API & sea-chem ammonia alert)
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 40ppm
pH: 8.2
dkH: 8.6

These are pretty constant every time I measure, save nitrate slowly rising and dkH slowly falling (I can't get dosing right in my 20gal display, so I gave up).
 

Zoa_Fanatic

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I have 7 zoa frags in QT:
  • 2 have been closed for over a month (source: local reefer)
  • 3 don't seem to fully open, but aren't as closed as the others. They're closed in the photos, but they're extended and will be more open later in the day. (Source: TSA/online)
  • 2 open fully and seem fine (Source: TSA/online)
zoas_unhealthy.jpg
zoas_healthyish.jpg

(Yes, that's an aptasia in the background, but I see none on the frags.)

All 7 frags got a CoralRx and Bayer dip before entering QT tank. The only thing I've ever seen on the frags is GHA and a small bit of bubble algae. I've dipped in H2O2 twice and removed all algae from all frags with a makeup brush as best as I can. No change in the condition. Additional details here.

Until yesterday, they shared a tank with 27 other frags (non zoas), all of which were doing fine. Yesterday was 45 days in QT for everything, but I didn't put the zoas in DT because they're not looking great. Before yesterday, the tank was pretty high flow for montis and an acro. I've turned off the powerheads now that those frags are in DT, so they now only have a HOB filter for flow. We'll see if that makes a difference. I've also had carbon in the filter for about 3 weeks in case the other frags were excercising chemical warfare.

I don't see zoa pox, which, as I understand it, are white dots on the flesh. I did see one that had something similar, but it was on the fully open Bloodsuckers (back right in photo). However, I'm considering a Furan-2 treatment because I've tried everything else I know of. I'm also considering just putting them in the display tank under the hypothesis that my QT sucks and they'll get better in a more established environment.

What should I do? (see poll).

Params:
SG: 1.026
Temp: 78
Ammonia: 0 (API & sea-chem ammonia alert)
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 40ppm
pH: 8.2
dkH: 8.6

These are pretty constant every time I measure, save nitrate slowly rising and dkH slowly falling (I can't get dosing right in my 20gal display, so I gave up).
I wouldn’t dump them. Some of the high end ones can just stay closed for a long time. If they aren’t dissolving they’re probably ok. Just wait. The more you do to them the more stressed they’re gonna get
 
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pseudorand

pseudorand

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I wouldn’t dump them. Some of the high end ones can just stay closed for a long time. If they aren’t dissolving they’re probably ok. Just wait. The more you do to them the more stressed they’re gonna get
But they were fine for the first week or two when I got them. Then they closed up and I have no idea why.
 

Zoa_Fanatic

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But they were fine for the first week or two when I got them. Then they closed up and I have no idea why.
Zoa do that. I got some white zombies that closed for almost three months and opened back again no problem. Try putting them in more flow. Mine like it blasting them

edit: that nitrate level is stupid high as well. That may be part of the issue
 
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pseudorand

pseudorand

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Zoa do that. I got some white zombies that closed for almost three months and opened back again no problem. Try putting them in more flow. Mine like it blasting them

edit: that nitrate level is stupid high as well. That may be part of the issue

So how do I decide if I put them in DT? Is not seeing algae, pox or nudibranchs good enough, or is it likely that's the cause and I've just missed seeing such things?

Nitrate is high in DT, but is there evidence that hurts zoas while other corals are fine? Tidal Gardens has one video saying they run nitrates at 50ppm in high-nutrient growth tanks. Thay is part of why I want to just put them in DT -- it has constant and healthy numbers. I just need to convince myself I'm not putting baddies in display with them.
 

Zoa_Fanatic

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So how do I decide if I put them in DT? Is not seeing algae, pox or nudibranchs good enough, or is it likely that's the cause and I've just missed seeing such things?

Nitrate is high in DT, but is there evidence that hurts zoas while other corals are fine? Tidal Gardens has one video saying they run nitrates at 50ppm in high-nutrient growth tanks. Thay is part of why I want to just put them in DT -- it has constant and healthy numbers. I just need to convince myself I'm not putting baddies in display with them.
I mean I can’t be the judge of that really. It’s whatever you are comfortable with. I don’t qt anything, ever. It’s worked out fine for me so far. Yet to lose a coral.
 
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