Clown with discolored fin

Luckki

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Good morning everyone,

Yesterday evening I picked up two black ocellaris that were special ordered for me from my LFS. When I first inspected them through the bag I could not see anything, when I got them him and into the QT tank I noticed that they were breathing hard and one had a discolored fin. I have started a rally pro and inch pro regiment, should I be using something more aggressive to combat this or will the current treatment be fine? Thanks again,

Luckki
P.s. sorry for the potato cam
IMG_1669.jpeg

 

Jay Hemdal

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Do you know how long the clowns were at the LFS before you got them? Double bouncing is rough on fish - shipping them to the LFS and then soon after, transferring them to you tank….

The water looks a bit murky, what are the parameters?

Do you know the salinity of the tank at the LFS compared to to yours?

This could also be a disease, but the LFS should not have sold them to you looking like this.

Jay
 
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Luckki

Luckki

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About two hours they were never unboxed or bagged.
My water is normal PH 8.1 temp 78, 8.5 dKH salinity 1.026 or 35 ppt the cloudiness is most likely from the rally pro Oh and ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrates 10ppm,.
The water they came in was a bit different. They came from the breeder and the water from there was bad. When I tested it was 8.4 temp 73 dKH about 21 ( I triple checked) salinity 1.025, I slowly temperature acclimated and dripped with a bucket suspended in the water. I have some more water being warmed up now to do a water change.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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About two hours they were never unboxed or bagged.
My water is normal PH 8.1 temp 78, 8.5 dKH salinity 1.026 or 35 ppt the cloudiness is most likely from the rally pro Oh and ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrates 10ppm,.
The water they came in was a bit different. They came from the breeder and the water from there was bad. When I tested it was 8.4 temp 73 dKH about 21 ( I triple checked) salinity 1.025, I slowly temperature acclimated and dripped with a bucket suspended in the water. I have some more water being warmed up now to do a water change.
Ok, I still think this is some issue related to transport - a breeder should not have shipped fish in that condition, plus protozoan diseases that cause rapid breathing are not often seen in breeders systems.

Jay
 
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Luckki

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Understood, should I start a different treatment or continue with the rally pro/ ick pro treatment? I was planning on 10% water changes daily, but do you think I should hold off or be more aggressive? Thanks again Jay.

The other fish is swimming and happy. They have not eaten yet, but they are still settling in.
 
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Luckki

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Understood, should I start a different treatment or continue with the rally pro/ ick pro treatment? I was planning on 10% water changes daily, but do you think I should hold off or be more aggressive? Thanks again Jay.

The other fish is swimming and happy. They have not eaten yet, but they are still settling in.
 

vetteguy53081

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I see little discoloration and no superficial damage or injury and How are you testing ?
Having received many fish at my LFS, I saw transport effects which Jay mentioned which turned out positive after 72 hours. Often these things happen alone from netting and inflicting netting damage which heals on its own
 
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Luckki

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I see little discoloration and no superficial damage or injury and How are you testing ?
Having received many fish at my LFS, I saw transport effects which Jay mentioned which turned out positive after 72 hours. Often these things happen alone from netting and inflicting netting damage which heals on its own
I apricate the response.

My parameters were double tested one with the Red Sea master test kit and the other with the Salifert test kits, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrites, For pH and dKH Red Sea. I have a refractometer that was recalibrated two days ago. For more information that tank has a HOB filter with sponge, bio media rings, and no carbon. It is a 10 gallon tall with standard glass normally for freshwater. Set up two weeks ago with Fritz turbo start 900. This just my quarantine tank. My Display tank is standing by waiting for them to recover. There is an air stone in the tank to assist with oxygen this is because the top of the tank is covered and there is little agitation. For temperature I have a chemist submersion thermometer as well as a preset heater.

My main objective is to make sure that the fish is being taken care of and not neglected. Hence the Rally Pro treatment. If you guys think it is just a shipment issue, I will take it nice and slow. I will keep an eye on the fish, and in the mean time I will get some new filter media ( to change out as needed) and do a 10% water change daily.

Thanks again for the information,
Luckki
 

Jay Hemdal

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Understood, should I start a different treatment or continue with the rally pro/ ick pro treatment? I was planning on 10% water changes daily, but do you think I should hold off or be more aggressive? Thanks again Jay.

The other fish is swimming and happy. They have not eaten yet, but they are still settling in.

I haven't heard of "ich pro", do you know what ingredients it has?

Jay
 
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Luckki

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I haven't heard of "ich pro", do you know what ingredients it has?

Jay
Its part of the Ruby Reef product line, It is Ruby Reef Kick-ich pro. I am not sure what the active ingredient is, they do not list it on the bottle. I have been reading other peoples experience and it does not look good. Should I get something else on hand just to have on hot standby?
 
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Luckki

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I haven't heard of "ich pro", do you know what ingredients it has?

Jay
Its part of the Ruby Reef product line, It is Ruby Reef Kick-ich pro. I am not sure what the active ingredient is, they do not list it on the bottle.
 

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