contemplating converting my 50gal to triton

[d_adler]

ive done my research over many posts about the no water changes im 95% sold i only have a few questions before taking the leap.

details
so my current set up is a 10 month old sps dominant cad lights 50gal long with a 16gal sump. i ordered my first triton test this week to send in and im finally going to decide if i will switch to triton method or stick with 2 part. current filtration is a skimmer, carbon in a reactor and a algae turf scrubber. i just beat a major green hair algae outbreak and still dealing with cyano.

questions for the experienced triton junkies

i run a diy ATS which has completely decimated my GHA but hasnt done much to my cyano out break and will be adding some chaeto as well as 1 or 2 other macros. Could i get away with the small-ish refugium in the second compartment or do you think the sump needs to be changed out? (my skimmer doesnt fit in the second compartment of it would have been a easy swap)

having such success with the scrubber so far would it be beneficial to keep it running to compensate for the small fuge?

could the scrubber and macros control no³ and po⁴ in it self or is a po⁴ binder essential to success ?

would i be better off waiting the cyano outbreak to subside before adding all these new elements? im worried the new elements may feed the cyano like aminos would

 

[d_adler]

Here's the best picture of my sump I could get as of now and how my tank sits as of today

 

[DLuce510]

Triton's salt is specifically labeled to help with cyanobacteria, word of warning it sucks for mixing, takes for ever. Also I've seen cyanobacteria stick around with zero nutrients but based on higher temperatures, 80+.
I have 2 fuges in my 120 and from what I've read from others the fuge is instrumental due to the amount of iron in their elements. With out it I've read of algae out breaks is the display. That's my short bit of experience I can offer.

 

[d_adler]

Triton's salt is specifically labeled to help with cyanobacteria, word of warning it sucks for mixing, takes for ever. Also I've seen cyanobacteria stick around with zero nutrients but based on higher temperatures, 80+.
I have 2 fuges in my 120 and from what I've read from others the fuge is instrumental due to the amount of iron in their elements. With out it I've read of algae out breaks is the display. That's my short bit of experience I can offer.

I didn't know that about the salt but I figured running a fuge so small might run into problems quickly. I'm trying to avoid running into significant problems off the get go