Coral Bleaching

Fishurama

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It’s a heat

reds 50
Greens 25
Blue 70.
my husband fooled with them today so I’m not sure what they were set at. We’ve been trying to adjust them and figure it out

As long as your whites are set around 70-100 percent with the others mentioned you should be good. I think it's lighting as well. You either need a second orbit, or 3 viperspectras, marsaqua, ocean revive or other chinese black box. 1 of any LED is not enough unfortunately for your size tank.
 
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DapperDanWoman

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As long as your whites are set around 70-100 percent with the others mentioned you should be good. I think it's lighting as well. You either need a second orbit, or 3 viperspectras, marsaqua, ocean revive or other chinese black box. 1 of any LED is not enough unfortunately for your size tank.
I’ll definitely add another light!
 

Waynerock

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You could add a couple reef brite lumi lite pro or XHO strips under the hood and that will get your par numbers up and not cost a whole bunch.
 

PbMan26

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I have two.

image.jpg

Ok that should be good. Just make sure the flow is hitting the birds nest.

It also looked like you had a piece of glass or plastic between the light and the water? Make sure that is really clean... that may be blocking some light.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
 
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DapperDanWoman

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Ok that should be good. Just make sure the flow is hitting the birds nest.

It also looked like you had a piece of glass or plastic between the light and the water? Make sure that is really clean... that may be blocking some light.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
We clean the glass weekly. Because we were warned of the same thing! Thank you all so much. I’ll update as I go
 

ge4rhead

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80 is completely fine. I keep my tank around 81-82. As long as it’s consistent. Not an issue. I was told that coralline algae grows better with elevated temp around 81-82. I moved my tank up in temp and just left it.

FE3E4ED5-BC69-4F1D-9693-205A15C19D6D.jpeg
 

Oldreefer44

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Agree with several of the above, but would also recommend an ICP test to verify that your test results are accurate. IMO, water quality consistency is the key to long term success in this hobby and this would give you a starting point from which to base solutions. I have learned the hard way to never depend on just one test kit. Also agree that more lighting will help.
 
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DapperDanWoman

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Agree with several of the above, but would also recommend an ICP test to verify that your test results are accurate. IMO, water quality consistency is the key to long term success in this hobby and this would give you a starting point from which to base solutions. I have learned the hard way to never depend on just one test kit. Also agree that more lighting will help.
I use the Red Sea testing kits and api. What’s ICP?
 

Fishurama

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I use the Red Sea testing kits and api. What’s ICP?

Inductive Couple Plasma. It's basically a mail in test that a scientist looks through a scope, runs tests, then they give you a sheet with all your water chemistry specs. Here is a more in-depth video.

 
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DapperDanWoman

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Inductive Couple Plasma. It's basically a mail in test that a scientist looks through a scope, runs tests, then they give you a sheet with all your water chemistry specs. Here is a more in-depth video.


Thanks! Is that needed if I use RODI?
 

Fishurama

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Thanks! Is that needed if I use RODI?
It's not needed unless you want an extreme in-depth example of your water chemistry that is very accurate. The issues with our over the counter kits, even things like Hanna, is unless you basically acid dip the vials, your results will very as they get more cloudy. ICP tests are very precise and look like this, you generally get 2 or so pages of this.
It's more something people who have 1000+ dollars worth of corals in their tanks and want to make sure they don't crash. In your shoes i wouldn't do it. Your other corals at the sand bed are doing fine which leads me to believe it to be a lighting issues like I said above and why I told you to move the duncan down(it's a low light coral) and your other low light corals are doing okay, while your high light corals aren't.

icp test example.png
 
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DapperDanWoman

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It's not needed unless you want an extreme in-depth example of your water chemistry that is very accurate. The issues with our over the counter kits, even things like Hanna, is unless you basically acid dip the vials, your results will very as they get more cloudy. ICP tests are very precise and look like this, you generally get 2 or so pages of this.
It's more something people who have 1000+ dollars worth of corals in their tanks and want to make sure they don't crash. In your shoes i wouldn't do it. Your other corals at the sand bed are doing fine which leads me to believe it to be a lighting issues like I said above and why I told you to move the duncan down(it's a low light coral) and your other low light corals are doing okay, while your high light corals aren't.

icp test example.png
That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the knowledge.
 

Fonn

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Your tank looks pretty new and immature to me. If I were you, I would just leave it alone and not buying any more corals, just enjoy your fish in the meantime. Be patient, let your tank mature or when you see lots of coralline algae on your back pane, then add a couple more corals to see if how they would do in a month or 2, then proceed to purchase more if things go well. I do agree with others that more lights are needed, but do not place your corals directly under your leds, spread them out as leds' hot spots do burn and bleach corals. hope this helps. Good luck and have fun !
 

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