Coral chemical warfare?

Scott.h

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My oldest running tank has been experiencing issues with certain corals over the last 2 years, getting worse. It's not a parameters issue, lighting, detritus/husbantry, or flow. Live rock is probably at least 10 years matured. I've been around saltwater for about 15 years, freshwater before that. Having multiple tanks I've just pulled corals which quickly thrive once relocated.

Changes made over the last few years: DI added to eliminate a TDS of 5 and under. Fuge/macro, Carbon/gfo reactor, More light, different spectrum, more flow, carbon dosing, lower nitrates/phosphate, vacuuming sand bed, bigger/better skimmer, blowing off rocks weekly, premium salt, bigger water changes (17% weekly), removal of my toadstool, (thought it was that producing toxins) despite all these positive things some things went from perfectly stable and fine, to unhappy. Parimeters are perfect and stable. Same levels as my other tanks. Some past issues got better, (nitrates and algae mainly) but some corals have not liked the road they've been on.

Corals that do well in there I have to regularly cut down/remove. Growth has been unpleasantly well. That includes Star polyps, mushrooms, palyzoas, Kenya trees, and neon spagetti leather. I have a rock flower nem that's tripled in size, but a previous bubble tip and condy that showed the same visual retraction as the corals. I also have a sponge that's fine. I've removed all Sps and LPS with one exception. Back when all my LPS were doing great my nitrates were 40ish. I did what we are "supposed to do" and dropped them down to about 5 or less before letting in them climb to a current 15 ish over the last few months, trying to figure this out. No algae issues, visible pests or diseases, or other visible problems. All fine once relocated. Fish are great, no deaths adding garbage to the water, and I don't let the corals get too bad before moving them.

Last straw, now I have my Xenia stalks that have shrunk, spread flat, and being negitivly effected, and a newly added war coral with regression. At one point I was concerned the Xenia were going to get out of control. The corals that have been effected show the same symptoms. Similar to what you might see if you weren't using rodi. Slow regression, retraction, just overall deterioration. No bleaching or getting picked on by fish. With this tank being in the living room I'm tired of having to cater to whatever is going on chemically, and being able to add outside of what's in there.

My thoughts are the amount of palys throwing toxins, and considered the amount of macroalgae in my fuge might be releasing something. Not sure if anyone has experienced issues with macroalgae in this sense? The problem is the palys would be impossible to eliminate without ripping the tank apart and starting over. Base rock are covered. And I don't know that that's the culprit. At the cost of salt, bigger weekly changes and carbon haven't made a lick of difference. The tank visually looks pretty good, but I just can't seem to add much other then Zoas and leathers. I'm also changing out the carbon regularly with no visual difference. I'm stumped.
 

Tahoe61

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Have you checked all magnets for erosion, pump propellers, stray voltage, heaters, braces, brackets?
Considered changing saltmix, how big of box or bucket are you using?
How large is the tank?
Are you dosing any iodine, strontium.....?
 
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Scott.h

Scott.h

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Have you checked all magnets for erosion, pump propellers, stray voltage, heaters, braces, brackets?
Considered changing saltmix, how big of box or bucket are you using?
How large is the tank?
Are you dosing any iodine, strontium.....?
At one point I did have stray voltage from an old heater, but corrected that and added a ground probe. I'll stick a meter in there and see. There is one powerhead, hard to get at, that I have to hit to start up sometimes. It's possible. I'll pull it today and check.

Display is 75, sump/fuge is a 50 gal. Used to use RC. Switched to tropic Marin pro reef a few years ago. My last bucket I switched ro TM bio actif. I have not added any supplements in that tank, but religiously do water changes.

I can do a triton test, thought that yesterday. It won't show coral warfare. At this point I do need to send some in. The only other thing I can think is that I've went OCD and striped the water with gfo. I only use 1/2 cup BRS standard and change every 2-3 months. With salifert I can't typically see blue. When it appears .03 I change it. I don't trust the digital ones. Could it be an offset from no3 to po4? If po4 is 0 or .01, but nitrates 15 or 20? Honestly I should probably unplug it for 2 weeks just to see. I doubt I need it. I have a few big carnivores. It seems I've had these issues since I've started using gfo, but not sure.
 
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Scott.h

Scott.h

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This picture is from 11/16. Look at my Xenia by my overflow. Now this is worse then what it was a year ago. Look at them today. Then look at the war coral next to it. War has been in there about a month. I'll move that downstairs today, and will healthy in two weeks guaranteed. It's getting roughly 100 par 10 hrs and 125 for 4.

image.jpeg


image.jpg
 

Tahoe61

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I would definitely pull the GFO for a couple weeks.

The reason I am reluctant to point the blame entirely on allelopathy is because I have seen a lot of tanks with larger populations of palys with no issues. If you're doing routine water changes, running charcoal you should have seen improvement.
 
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Scott.h

Scott.h

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I would definitely pull the GFO for a couple weeks.

The reason I am reluctant to point the blame entirely on allelopathy is because I have seen a lot of tanks with larger populations of palys with no issues. If you're doing routine water changes, running charcoal you should have seen improvement.
Ill unplug the reactor today before my wc. I tested voltage. It might have one volt. Hard to say, as the meter reads .5 without touching the water. I unplugged the one old powerhead, and it didn't drop. I'll pull it today and inspect, maybe just replace it. Everything else has pretty much been updated.
 

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I would keep in mind that when you change something, sometimes will take a long time until the stressed corals start to bounce back. I had one acro that was suffering from fighting to another when I decided to frag and add to my frag system (the frag system is doing really well). It took about 4 weeks for that acro to start coloring up again, and it still has poor polyp extension.

My point is that it might be a good idea to use a new, unstressed frag from time to time (every 3 or 4 weeks) to test if your changes are helping the issue.
 
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Scott.h

Scott.h

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I would keep in mind that when you change something, sometimes will take a long time until the stressed corals start to bounce back. I had one acro that was suffering from fighting to another when I decided to frag and add to my frag system (the frag system is doing really well). It took about 4 weeks for that acro to start coloring up again, and it still has poor polyp extension.

My point is that it might be a good idea to use a new, unstressed frag from time to time (every 3 or 4 weeks) to test if your changes are helping the issue.
For sure. Every one thing seems to take a month one way or the other. That's why I've been changing things over the last year. Nothing much left to do. Today I changed out the only old Powerhead, did a 25% water change, and unplugged my duel reactor. This week I'll send in a sample to triton but I'd be shocked if something comes back out of spec. I'm still leaning toward warfare, and the more those softies spread the worse the issue has gotten. Only one way to eliminate the other possibilities. Water sample
 

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I would keep the carbon running (I like BRS ROX 0.8), maybe slow down to 1x the tank volume per day. Keeping the carbon would continue helping if it is warfare.
 

De Gregoriis Oatrick

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Can you update ? I have same experience. Many paly’s and zoa’s while leathers have problems tonopen their polyps...
 

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