Corals Struggling Help !!

[cpalminteri]

So I tested everything and it looks like my Alk is low. It’s a 55 gal and I’m doing 10 gal water changes every week. What can be sapping all the alk? Note, my torches and leather corals are fine but my Duncan, certain zoas are struggling big time.

Measurements
PH- 7.8
Temp- 76
Salinity-1.026
Ammonia-0
Nitrite- looks like .05 but might also be 0
Nitrate-4
Calcium- 420
KH- 3.21 (low)

Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated. Tank is a year old and it was a FWOLR, as of 3 months I turned it to reef but it’s been struggling. Fish are fine and I do over feed but I over filtrate as well I have a HOB as well as a Canister filter.

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

A 20% change every week should give you a higher reading. Are you using the kit per the directions, is it expired and what test kit are you using ? What salt are you using ?

One of the worst things I have ever done to my corals was to change 10% of the water four weeks in a row. It took months for my corals to get back to normal. They do not like change, stability is their happy place.

 

[cpalminteri]

A 20% change every week should give you a higher reading. Are you using the kit per the directions, is it expired and what test kit are you using ? What salt are you using ?

One of the worst things I have ever done to my corals was to change 10% of the water four weeks in a row. It took months for my corals to get back to normal. They do not like change, stability is their happy place.

Since the tank wasn’t reef before I’d do a water change a month but for the last three weeks I’ve been changing it weekly because I see the corals declining. Using Coral Salt Pro Salt the last month by Red Sea. Kit is Red Sea and isn’t expired

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

Same salt I was using. I use the Blue bucket now as the Pro was spiking my ALK past where I like to be around 8.5
I find it very unlikely your KH is 3.21 especially with a 20% weekly water change using the Red Sea Pro salt. Ask a LFS to test it for you.
I am also using the Red Sea KH tester. 5ML of tank water 1 drop swirl for 10 seconds repeat until you turn green.
Every drop equals 1DKH (8drops = 8DKH resolution)

 

[cpalminteri]

Same salt I was using. I use the Blue bucket now as the Pro was spiking my ALK past where I like to be around 8.5
I find it very unlikely your KH is 3.21 especially with a 20% weekly water change using the Red Sea Pro salt. Ask a LFS to test it for you.
I am also using the Red Sea KH tester. 5ML of tank water 1 drop swirl for 10 seconds repeat until you turn green.
Every drop equals 1DKH (8drops = 8DKH resolution)

Thanks I’ll deff retest Tom morning or bring it to my LFS but if it’s not the alk what else can be contributing to my corals struggling? Particular ones at that idk why the torches are happy but my zoas and Duncan aren’t lol

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

It can be as simple as too many water changes causing large swings in you water chemistry. Best bet for help is to do an ICP test. After you receive the results share it here and lets see what's going on.

 

[cpalminteri]

It can be as simple as too many water changes causing large swings in you water chemistry. Best bet for help is to do an ICP test. After you receive the results share it here and lets see what's going on.

Gotcha, I’ll try that. Only other thing I can think of is my Rodi water. It has a tds which still says zero but I ordered a second one just to have a second opinion

 

[cpalminteri]

Same salt I was using. I use the Blue bucket now as the Pro was spiking my ALK past where I like to be around 8.5
I find it very unlikely your KH is 3.21 especially with a 20% weekly water change using the Red Sea Pro salt. Ask a LFS to test it for you.
I am also using the Red Sea KH tester. 5ML of tank water 1 drop swirl for 10 seconds repeat until you turn green.
Every drop equals 1DKH (8drops = 8DKH resolution)

So it’s 9DKH! I was writing it down in Meq/L. Phew, glad I didn’t add KH. This means all my measurements are within reason so still no idea why my corals are suffering

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

Don't go rushing into trying to fix your issue. Think about what you changed in the tank before your corals closed up. Growth can make some corals look bothered, I have a few that look horrible right before there is a growth spurt.
As I said, in my tank that many water changes in a row would tick off nearly all my corals LPS and SPS for weeks if not months.

Your best bet is to get the ICP test and go from there otherwise you are throwing things at the wall to see what sticks. Guessing is how you prolong your pain. The longer you are in a state of pain the longer it takes to recover. You want to check your water chemistry first and make the necessary changes per the ICP.

Lighting, flow and food can all be contributors to your issue. The time you have had the corals can make the difference, some corals will always seem to do well while others may struggle from time to time for no apparent reason even when nothing has changed.

Current in the tank from our equipment can also effect our livestock. Checking current is not a bad thing. Unplug everything and as you turn on each piece of equipment notice the increase on your multimeter, if you have a spike that piece might be going bad. A bad piece of equipment is dangerous and can leach copper into the water.
You can find the info for current testing online, if you are not comfortable have someone qualified to check it for you.

I would invest in a overflow box and sump. Canister filters can be problematic if not maintained properly. A sump is much easier to maintain and has lots of options like a roller mat, refugium and different reactors to name a few.

 

[cpalminteri]

Don't go rushing into trying to fix your issue. Think about what you changed in the tank before your corals closed up. Growth can make some corals look bothered, I have a few that look horrible right before there is a growth spurt.
As I said, in my tank that many water changes in a row would tick off nearly all my corals LPS and SPS for weeks if not months.

Your best bet is to get the ICP test and go from there otherwise you are throwing things at the wall to see what sticks. Guessing is how you prolong your pain. The longer you are in a state of pain the longer it takes to recover. You want to check your water chemistry first and make the necessary changes per the ICP.

Lighting, flow and food can all be contributors to your issue. The time you have had the corals can make the difference, some corals will always seem to do well while others may struggle from time to time for no apparent reason even when nothing has changed.

Current in the tank from our equipment can also effect our livestock. Checking current is not a bad thing. Unplug everything and as you turn on each piece of equipment notice the increase on your multimeter, if you have a spike that piece might be going bad. A bad piece of equipment is dangerous and can leach copper into the water.
You can find the info for current testing online, if you are not comfortable have someone qualified to check it for you.

I would invest in an overflow box and sump. Canister filters can be problematic if not maintained properly. A sump is much easier to maintain and has lots of options like a roller mat, refugium and different reactors to name a few.

So I used my tds meter on my top up water and it’s reading 15 ppm. Any reason why it would change like that? My ro water still says zero. Either way I’m going to switch out all the filters but I’m thinking water w a 15 ppm each morning topping up might be affecting it? And yep in October I’m actually moving and getting a larger tank that one will def have an overflow and sump. This is my noob tank so I’m stuck with it for now. Thanks all the info!

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

At some point I believe most reefers will stick their hand in their tank a receive a shock, that's when the research starts. Most if not all aquariums have stray current. A simple ground probe will eliminate the current in our tanks.
The smart money has a dedicated GFIC/AIFC dual function breaker for the aquarium. Protecting our reef family is second to our human family..... for most of us

Your RO water being your top off water should be absolutely identical as it is the same water, or am I missing something. The ICP test also includes your RO water.

It is the challenge that makes it interesting, happy reefing.

 

[cpalminteri]

Don't go rushing into trying to fix your issue. Think about what you changed in the tank before your corals closed up. Growth can make some corals look bothered, I have a few that look horrible right before there is a growth spurt.
As I said, in my tank that many water changes in a row would tick off nearly all my corals LPS and SPS for weeks if not months.

Your best bet is to get the ICP test and go from there otherwise you are throwing things at the wall to see what sticks. Guessing is how you prolong your pain. The longer you are in a state of pain the longer it takes to recover. You want to check your water chemistry first and make the necessary changes per the ICP.

Lighting, flow and food can all be contributors to your issue. The time you have had the corals can make the difference, some corals will always seem to do well while others may struggle from time to time for no apparent reason even when nothing has changed.

Current in the tank from our equipment can also effect our livestock. Checking current is not a bad thing. Unplug everything and as you turn on each piece of equipment notice the increase on your multimeter, if you have a spike that piece might be going bad. A bad piece of equipment is dangerous and can leach copper into the water.
You can find the info for current testing online, if you are not comfortable have someone qualified to check it for you.

I would invest in an overflow box and sump. Canister filters can be problematic if not maintained properly. A sump is much easier to maintain and has lots of options like a roller mat, refugium and different reactors to name a few.

Sooooo Nitrates are 100. Not sure if I’ve been measuring wrong or if nitrates were just accumulating in the canister since I only clean that one out once a month but here I am. Cleaned it out and did a 20% water change and it hasn’t moved. I also never clean my sand been tbh. Have lots of snails but I never suction the sand so I’m thinking might be coming from there as well. Scared to suction and let those nitrates out and nuke the tank though…

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

Ditch the canister and HOB for a sump or clean Them every week. I do my sand every water change, never an issue. My sand bed averages 1" so its not a concern for me. Cleaning a DSB around 3" or more could be an issue. My last tank had a deep sand bed and I never cleaned it and the nitrates remained constant around 20, I cleaned the 100 micron sheets in the overflow box and drip tray weekly without fail. I also had minimal fish and minimal feedings in a 125 gallon tank with lots of live rock.

list you fish and CUC.

Going back to your original post, the tank is fairly new, corals like a stable mature tank and this could be your issue.

Follow the directions and Test the nitrates again. What is you PO4 ?

 

[cpalminteri]

Ditch the canister and HOB for a sump or clean Them every week. I do my sand every water change, never an issue. My sand bed averages 1" so its not a concern for me. Cleaning a DSB around 3" or more could be an issue. My last tank had a deep sand bed and I never cleaned it and the nitrates remained constant around 20, I cleaned the 100 micron sheets in the overflow box and drip tray weekly without fail. I also had minimal fish and minimal feedings in a 125 gallon tank with lots of live rock.

list you fish and CUC.

Going back to your original post, the tank is fairly new, corals like a stable mature tank and this could be your issue.

Follow the directions and Test the nitrates again. What is you PO4 ?

Might switch to sump but not sure what kind of overflow box to get and I’m def not drilling a hole in the tank right now so it would have to be one of the ones that go over the glass. I have a heavy stocked tank right now:

4 clowns
1 hippo tang (2 inch)
1 fox face (3inch)
1 butterfly fish (2.5 inch)
1 six line wrasse
1 firefish goby
1 royal gramma
1 watchman goby w pistol shrimp
1 more goby that hides in a rock hole forget his name.
1 blood fire shrimp
1 cleaner shrimp
2 turbo snails
3-4 Nassarius snails
3-4 regular CUC snails
1 blue tuxedo urchin

Filtration:
Fluval 407 canister 220 gal?
Seachem HOB 75 gal
And I have a skimmer but it’s only rated for 30gal
Most of the fish have been in this tank for about a year. But 3 months ago I moved 2 clowns and 2 goby’s over to it.

have never paid attention to Nitrates as fish have been fine and this used to be a FWOLR. Now that it’s mixed and I moved the corals over all the corals are suffering. I should also note that I have zero algae problems (I think my tang and FoxFace graze the rocks all day)

po4 is 1.4

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

I have a over the glass overflow on my 75 with a pre filter sponge. (rinse clean twice a week)

You have to ask your self, where do I want to be in this hobby, Hard, easy or middle of the road ?
Hard can equal time, money, frustration possibly great satisfaction if you do it right.
Easy, less time in maintenance, less money, less frustration and possibly great satisfaction if you do it right. Doing easy wrong is no longer easy.
Middle of the road is exactly that some where in between that also needs to be done right.

My definition of done right..... things we do to make our tanks better and easier that don't backfire on us to make it all that much harder. Each tank you see on this site is a reflection of the effort we are willing to put into them. For some people things come easy and they don't stress others are neurotic and stress over every little thing, I would be somewhere in between. Its a good day when I can look into my tank and enjoy it.

Pick where you think you want to be and learn from our mistakes so you can be spared the pain. Switching it up as you go becomes easier as you get the experience to move up the ladder.

 

[cpalminteri]

I have a over the glass overflow on my 75 with a pre filter sponge. (rinse clean twice a week)

You have to ask your self, where do I want to be in this hobby, Hard, easy or middle of the road ?
Hard can equal time, money, frustration possibly great satisfaction if you do it right.
Easy, less time in maintenance, less money, less frustration and possibly great satisfaction if you do it right. Doing easy wrong is no longer easy.
Middle of the road is exactly that some where in between that also needs to be done right.

My definition of done right..... things we do to make our tanks better and easier that don't backfire on us to make it all that much harder. Each tank you see on this site is a reflection of the effort we are willing to put into them. For some people things come easy and they don't stress others are neurotic and stress over every little thing, I would be somewhere in between. Its a good day when I can look into my tank and enjoy it.

Pick where you think you want to be and learn from our mistakes so you can be spared the pain. Switching it up as you go becomes easier as you get the experience to move up the ladder.

Which overflow do you have and do you recommend it? And yep I agree 100% with you, I’ve learned a lot this past year. In October when my lease is up I’ll be moving and upgrading to a 120 gal but for now I’m stuck with this 55 gal that’s a little overstocked

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

I bought a Aqua-Link 2010 that came as package on Ebay as an experiment. Many people claim that bio balls are nitrate factories. My 525XL was in ULN and in need of some nitrates. When I set up my 30 QT tank I decided to get a wet dry with bio balls to see if I would get nitrates. The Aqua-Link 2010 worked silently and flawlessly. However no nitrates were produced. This tank was also a ULN system after six months. The 30 QT turned into a overspill tank for 525XL's bad choices and propagation.

When I decided to upgrade to a 75 gallon I knew I needed a sump with more room so I sold the wet dry and bought a Eshopps AR-200 sump and PF-300 overflow, I do not like either of them. HOB box is noisy and the sump is hard to clean and just to small but still more functional than the Aqua-Link 2010. The AR-200 has the S-200 skimmer apex and room for the reactors in the fuge section, so I make due.

To answer your initial question No I can not recommend a good HOB overflow, sorry for the tangent.