Custom 100 Gal SPS Reef Build
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- Thread starter epicfatigue
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OP
OP
epicfatigue
Active Member
Slowly getting closer,
Having a little play with the equipment.
On the list now is, build reef pi and configure it.
Build the ATO and AWC System
Plumb into storm water.
Install RODI System.
Build Aqua Scape.
Build Roller Filter System.
Re-pipe and setup Calcium Reactor.
Having a little play with the equipment.
On the list now is, build reef pi and configure it.
Build the ATO and AWC System
Plumb into storm water.
Install RODI System.
Build Aqua Scape.
Build Roller Filter System.
Re-pipe and setup Calcium Reactor.
OP
OP
epicfatigue
Active Member
Sorry I have been absent for awhile, been waiting for all the fun electronics to show up!
Been having a play as you can see.
So far I have tested my dual PH probes running on the I2C interface.
One is to monitor the PH inside the tank, the other is the control for inside the calcium reactor.
Tested the two water proof Temp monitors, these will be used to monitor the tank temp and provide a failsafe if the temp raises above expected it will shut off the heater.
Configured stepper motors of doser pumps and calcium reactor feed.
Might write a guide for people out there that want to do this as I cannot find anyone who has yet.
Currently I am working on tapping into the Lights so I can control these via PWM to control sunrise and sun set. Will be using a PCA9685 via I2C
After that I will be doing the AWC and ATO unit.
Not sure if people want me to go into detail on how this stuff is done ?
Been having a play as you can see.
So far I have tested my dual PH probes running on the I2C interface.
One is to monitor the PH inside the tank, the other is the control for inside the calcium reactor.
Tested the two water proof Temp monitors, these will be used to monitor the tank temp and provide a failsafe if the temp raises above expected it will shut off the heater.
Configured stepper motors of doser pumps and calcium reactor feed.
Might write a guide for people out there that want to do this as I cannot find anyone who has yet.
Currently I am working on tapping into the Lights so I can control these via PWM to control sunrise and sun set. Will be using a PCA9685 via I2C
After that I will be doing the AWC and ATO unit.
Not sure if people want me to go into detail on how this stuff is done ?
OP
OP
epicfatigue
Active Member
Had a play with modifying the light control on the viaspectra lights.
They are a very well put together black box thats for sure.
Was able to add the channels to the reef pi and control the brightness.
They are a very well put together black box thats for sure.
Was able to add the channels to the reef pi and control the brightness.
OP
OP
epicfatigue
Active Member
So I have been racking my brain on a clean way to carry the two x 4 pins down to the control unit 8 in total for each light.
I came up with heaps of ways to make it simple with less wires different connects etc, but i also wanted it to be cheap, as i have done most of this build with spending minimal.
I wanted it to be modular as so I could remove a light quick and easy.
I finally settled on using cat6 cable as it ticked all the boxes.
It could carry the load, solid copper, wasn't susceptible to noise, and as I bonus I had a heap of it.
But then I was trying to work out a nice way to make it fit in, in a clean way.
I also wanted to modify the lights in such a way I didn't void my warranty.
So here is the solution I came up with.
I designed a small plate with a keystone socket to slot into the existing control board slot, then i put a cat5e keystone I had laying around.
Just need to print 3 more then I will wire them all up.
Makes for a clean install I now will have 4x cat6 cables running down the back into the main control unit
Ignore my bad print it was the first one so it was not dialled in.
I came up with heaps of ways to make it simple with less wires different connects etc, but i also wanted it to be cheap, as i have done most of this build with spending minimal.
I wanted it to be modular as so I could remove a light quick and easy.
I finally settled on using cat6 cable as it ticked all the boxes.
It could carry the load, solid copper, wasn't susceptible to noise, and as I bonus I had a heap of it.
But then I was trying to work out a nice way to make it fit in, in a clean way.
I also wanted to modify the lights in such a way I didn't void my warranty.
So here is the solution I came up with.
I designed a small plate with a keystone socket to slot into the existing control board slot, then i put a cat5e keystone I had laying around.
Just need to print 3 more then I will wire them all up.
Makes for a clean install I now will have 4x cat6 cables running down the back into the main control unit
Ignore my bad print it was the first one so it was not dialled in.
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