Cycle...?

[brandon429]

We dont add ammonia to live rock it burns animals paid extra for. Post tank pics showing your ratios

Adding live rock was stated above to cause a different process than dry rock cycling.

If no live rock has been added then it won't help to add more ammonia simply change water on the date written on bacteria label and you're done.

 

[Brooke24]

We dont add ammonia to live rock it burns animals paid extra for. Post tank pics showing your ratios

Adding live rock was stated above to cause a different process than dry rock cycling.

If no live rock has been added then it won't help to add more ammonia simply change water on the date written on bacteria label and you're done.

I added mostly dry rock- only a couple pieces of live rock so it’s okay haha! My scape isn’t done, I’m adding more rock when I get paid, so I kinda just threw it in for now.

 

[brandon429]

Looks great

that will eat up any ammonia in a few hours, it’s enough live rock to do so. Your test kit will take days in delay though to report the drop, weeks most likely, so no harm waiting as long as they are selected to control the chosen start date. Most go by the kits

but if you ever want to start just smell the water. Any ammonia above hundredths ppm will smell, noses are this good compared to ammonia test kits. I bet it smells normal now, because the lr has already scrubbed free ammonia


MACNA conventions manage to start five hundred reefs all on the same day for decades, no stalls, no weeks long build up.


they do it with partial live rocks assemblies. Your cycle is done but there’s no harm waiting till spring break either.

 

[Brooke24]

We dont add ammonia to live rock it burns animals paid extra for. Post tank pics showing your ratios

Adding live rock was stated above to cause a different process than dry rock cycling.

If no live rock has been added then it won't help to add more ammonia simply change water on the date written on bacteria label and you're done.

Only

Looks great

that will eat up any ammonia in a few hours, it’s enough live rock to do so. Your test kit will take days in delay though to report the drop, weeks most likely, so no harm waiting as long as they are selected to control the chosen start date. Most go by the kits

but if you ever want to start just smell the water. Any ammonia above hundredths ppm will smell, noses are this good compared to ammonia test kits. I bet it smells normal now, because the lr has already scrubbed free ammonia


MACNA conventions manage to start five hundred reefs all on the same day for decades, no stalls, no weeks long build up.


they do it with partial live rocks assemblies. Your cycle is done but there’s no harm waiting till spring break either.

It’s already cycled? Why is ammonia at 1-2 ppm then ? And nitrite at 5+ ppm ?

 

[brandon429]

Because I mentioned above your test kits stand no chance of helping and that MACNA entrants don’t use them to begin on time for thirty years, and you are set up like they do.

the difference is, they’re using sellers rules. Buyers rules are opposite.

does your water smell, don’t omit that portion detail

bet it does not. 1-2 ppm is claimed, here is google human detection abilities via smell for ammonia in ppm: .04

 

[brandon429]

I can tell your ammonia levels by your water clarity, but smell is best.


true sustained 2 ppm goes cloudy as bacteria are so over fed they fill up surfaces and float off into the water dividing, in bloom.

everyone cycling may add in 2 ppm but they don’t sustain it, thats why the water stays clear and the two clowns they added don’t die. they also add charged up bacteria along with the ammonia, or rocks that already have bacteria, that’s why it doesn’t sustain. Did you add bottle bac too and wet sand

 

[brandon429]

My ammonia already dropped. I have only done one round of ammonia drops, and it was at 4-5 ppm at first. It’s now at about 1



thats how you know you are done. And that the water doesn’t smell right now

 

[Uncle99]

my ammonia is at 1 now, and nitrite at 5 ppm. Do I add more ammonia, then check the levels tomorrow?

In any cycled tank, the addition of small ammonia source could spike to .2ppm but should be quickly zeroed out.
Anything above 0.02ppm can be detrimental and anything rising to .1ppm should be investigated as to source.

The problem IMM is the amounts are so small that API can’t read below .25ppm so is virtually useless.

With that in mind, once you reach .25ppm ammonia and 0.05ppm nitrites with API, your likely cycled.

You can test by adding some ammonia, watch it rise above .1ppm then come down to .25ppm and once nitrites show 0.05ppm, this is clear indication your tank is cycled and can house a fish or two.

 

[brandon429]

I’ll also bet the water smells fine. Humans can easily detect into hundredths ppm. Smell counts in ammonia diagnostics and it also determines my ability to detect cat litter boxes upon entry into said homes of relatives / friends etc who have em
free ammonia has consequences we can determine without titration tests, I like that part of cycling.

the initial trend down doesn’t stop. Cycle chart agrees

*some kits do report clear yellow zero, some don’t, that’s the confounding part. our best science and all cycle charts says the biology stays consistent, but apparently the testing doesn’t. It’s such a challenge, we don’t have clear ammonia diagnostics in the hobby yet.

 

[Brooke24]

Because I mentioned above your test kits stand no chance of helping and that MACNA entrants don’t use them to begin on time for thirty years, and you are set up like they do.

the difference is, they’re using sellers rules. Buyers rules are opposite.

does your water smell, don’t omit that portion detail

bet it does not. 1-2 ppm is claimed, here is google human detection abilities via smell for ammonia in ppm: .04

I don’t smell anything

I’ll also bet the water smells fine. Humans can easily detect into hundredths ppm. Smell counts in ammonia diagnostics and it also determines my ability to detect cat litter boxes upon entry into said homes of relatives / friends etc who have em
free ammonia has consequences we can determine without titration tests, I like that part of cycling.

the initial trend down doesn’t stop. Cycle chart agrees

*some kits do report clear yellow zero, some don’t, that’s the confounding part. our best science and all cycle charts says the biology stays consistent, but apparently the testing doesn’t. It’s such a challenge, we don’t have clear ammonia diagnostics in the hobby yet.

yeah just smells like the smell you immediately smell when you walk into a lfs

 

[brandon429]

If you had smelled any i was setting up to blame the cat

 

[Uncle99]

Keep in mind that you indicated 90g with 10lbs rock.
That’s a small surface area IMO for the good guys to live on.


So your ability to process (export) through the Nitro cycle is limited to that.

I know rock is expensive, but it’s the “key” to a thriving reef.

I’d add more rock or marine pure block, another bottle bacteria, then add your first guy/girl. A pair if you like.

Just watch them carefully over the next week.

And let that mature up as you keep your nitrate in the 2-5ppm spot and phosphate 0.03-.1ppm range.

 

[Brooke24]

Keep in mind that you indicated 90g with 10lbs rock.
That’s a small surface area IMO for the good guys to live on.


So your ability to process (export) through the Nitro cycle is limited to that.

I know rock is expensive, but it’s the “key” to a thriving reef.

I’d add more rock or marine pure block, another bottle bacteria, then add your first guy/girl. A pair if you like.

Just watch them carefully over the next week.

And let that mature up as you keep your nitrate in the 2-5ppm spot and phosphate 0.03-.1ppm range.

I’m adding more rock, and can seed my 90 g from water with my established biocube. Just never used this method before

 

[Brooke24]

If you had smelled any i was setting up to blame the cat

Only got dogs here Lol

 

[Uncle99]

I’m adding more rock, and can seed my 90 g from water with my established biocube. Just never used this method before

Water does nothing to seed other tanks, there’s not much good guys in the water column, they live on the hard surfaces like rocks and sand and glass...etc...

If your going to seed, do it with something like Fritz 9, turn off your skimmer for a few days to let them settle, then restart skim.

 

[Brooke24]

Water does nothing to seed other tanks, there’s not much good guys in the water column, they live on the hard surfaces like rocks and sand and glass...etc...

If your going to seed, do it with something like Fritz 9, turn off your skimmer for a few days to let them settle, then restart skim.

Well I already added Dr Tim’s. I meant I could add a seeded filter or foam

 

[Uncle99]

Well I already added Dr Tim’s. I meant I could add a seeded filter or foam

Sure, seeded foam, Dr.Tim’s fine.
You should be ready to go.

 

[Brooke24]

Sure, seeded foam, Dr.Tim’s fine.
You should be ready to go.

Great! Maybe I will throw that in my tank tomorrow- my cycle is very, very close to being done anyway- almost down to 0. I’m certain there is enough bacteria, especially after a bottle that was suited for a larger system than mine and seeded foam